Annoyed with Triumph right now.

Same **** different day from Triumph stealer ship. They aways repudiate liability first up hassle factor stuff. Customer service is fudged never buy another Triumph! Next bike is a Yamaha!

Sounds to me it may be your detent spring I had that problem with mine which would jump out of 2nd and 4th gear and it can be replaced going thru the front of the engine which should take a couple hrs instead of the way they would normally replace it which would be bout 4 hrs
You could probably get in touch with warp or hanso and I think rocket scientist have tire their engine apart and a few others on here could give more info

Warranty warranty warranty Triumph will cover the cost sucks to be happening on a brand new two year old bike, as for the oil if you are going to change it every 5000miles do not waste your money on full syn use regular oil , I have from day one used Fs and ride 10000miles between oil changes today's modern Fs oils can handle it no problem.

@Anomaly my 2014 has 42.5K miles on it and I have not had the issue you are speaking of. I am confident the matter is covered under warranty. I would seek a loaner bike while they have yours. My deal in Dulles has that as a great customer perk and even if their service gets slow at times, I still have a bike to ride while waiting...

@Anomaly - What dealership are you currently using?
There are huge differences... PM me if you want

So for those of us contemplating the 40k mile service on a 2007... Is there a reputable shop in Houston that can open the top and check the valves and adjust only if necessary? My motor has never been opened and the bike shifts well. My minor shifting issue was solved by giving my overtight cable some slack. Oil reservoir tank O rings leaks. Gives the bike that Brit look of a little oil on the motor after a good workout. I guess I have been lucky and have a good copy otherwise.

How about in Austin or Dallas. Nice early day ride, get a local hotel and pub the night. Pick up the bike next day and ride back. I am not sure if I want to take mine to the local dealer. The front of the store is nice and the staff works well but the back of the store is slow and unconnected to the customer. They are mainly a BMW garage.

1K9 said:

So for those of us contemplating the 40k mile service on a 2007... Is there a reputable shop in Houston that can open the top and check the valves and adjust only if necessary? My motor has never been opened and the bike shifts well. My minor shifting issue was solved by giving my overtight cable some slack. Oil reservoir tank O rings leaks. Gives the bike that Brit look of a little oil on the motor after a good workout. I guess I have been lucky and have a good copy otherwise.

How about in Austin or Dallas. Nice early day ride, get a local hotel and pub the night. Pick up the bike next day and ride back. I am not sure if I want to take mine to the local dealer. The front of the store is nice and the staff works well but the back of the store is slow and unconnected to the customer. They are mainly a BMW garage.

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Rick, I've posted about this before but I'll copy & paste this PM info I just sent to Anomaly:

RPM Cycle on I35 in Farmers branch just a few hundred yards north of 635.
I can do all of my own mechanical work, but I do not always want to. That being said, it came to the point of doing the 30,000 service which i performed everything myself except the valve clearance check/adjust because I just didn't have the time, or the shims, ect. so I took it to RPM. Long story short: the job pays 2.5 hours book labor time. well the cam saddle bolts are notorious for seizing up & it took the tech an additional 2.0 hours to get it out. I know that was true because I drove up to Dallas from Tyler the morning they started on it (on a Saturday) & I was there when they started. We left for a while & shopped for a couple of hours while they did their thing. Well it took them much longer to finish up & they even told me they would stay after closing (4.00 pm on Sat) to finish & deliver it to me. The tech showed me the mangled up bolt he removed also.
So my point i'm getting at is they could have charged me additional $$$$$ because the stuck bolt removal is not included in book rate time for the job - But they did not, they only charged me the 2.5 quoted time + $30 valve cover gasket which I knew about at the beginning. Also 3 valves needed shims which i was not charged for as they said shims are included in the labor fee quote (they aren't expensive anyway)
So I have nothing but High praises for them. The General Manager's name is Boris Loera & he met with me personally while I was there (& my wife also) and he treated us like we were the only customers in the building. I'm very impressed. If I ever do buy a new bike it will be from them.
Check out their testimonial page from their customers.
If you do take your bike to them, obviously call & make an appointment. I dropped mine off one Saturday for them to get started & finished on the following Saturday. That was what I worked out with the service manager.

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Ok I just bought a 2016 with the same problem. I do not have $400 miles on it. Could there have been a design change or something?

Chaz Jutting said:

Ok I just bought a 2016 with the same problem. I do not have $400 miles on it. Could there have been a design change or something?

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Hi Chaz, where are you located? It seems there are a few trans issues popping up with the newer R3's around here.
@Anomaly - you really should let your dealership know about this.

Chaz, go to the introduce yourself forum & tell us more about yourself. Put your location in your info block

Introduce Yourself !!

I also bought my 2015 R3T several months ago as new, but with miles on it so the buyer couldn't take advantage the endless summer rebates and the full warranty. That's another topic I don't want to catch hell on again so I won't revisit it. Anyway, when new they can be quirky about going into first and in finding neutral. As mention, if you pop it into first as soon as you pull the clutch in it solves the problem of it jumping out of first when you take off. I had that happen and figured out how to avoid it shortly after I got my first R3T. Clutch free play is important when it come to shifting and clutch drag. It doesn't take much to have issues finding neutral, especially when it's warmed up. I can't say I have ever had an issue with second on my 2013 or 2015 no matter how hard I hit it. I've never been a heel shifter, but I have found things shift smoother and you are more likely to be solidly in the gear you want when I upshift using my heel. I'm learning to use that more and more. I just hope the second gear issue doesn't crop up in the future. I only have about 1K miles on my bike, so I'll know if I have issues when I get back to riding next summer. It does seem with the miles you have on it you should be beyond having new breakin issues. Stay with the full synthetic oil and Good Luck!