Am doing my 10k service this weekend

The electrical connector under the tank is quite easy to pull apart if done properly.
In the first pic the tab needs to be pulled up away from the contacts to clear the little catch in the second pic.
 

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Spark plugs look good. With all the oil levels/leaks talk going on I wasn't sure what to expect but this confirms that I'm not burning oil which there is no other sign of anyhow. The boots were all loose sitting on top of the plugs but the plugs themselves were tight as as a frog's pu$$y.
 

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It suits my situation just fine considering I have no room for a table. Once you put the bike on the thing there is more than enough room to get to the right side and I don't use it unless I need to.
I have the Big Blue and always use tie downs. I actually added some additional tie down anchor points to use different type straps when i pull wheels off.
 
Sorry for this duplicate as I had intended to post that here to begin with.

So far I have replaced the air filter, fuel filter and spark plugs, put everything back together and the beast lives. Putting the tank back on was not bad other than that squiggly hose going to the evap canister which resisted but I won. I'm saving the easy parts for last which is oil, oil filter, final drive oil and roller bearing lube.
I understand for the most part why things are where they are (difficult to get to) because there simply would be no other place to put them. I have to check again but when I looked at my throttle body values recently in tuneecu they were all showing the same and I'm sure the dealer would have gladly charged me for that nevertheless. I'm glad I decided to do this myself and now that I know how things are put together it'll be easier next time. Of course at 20k I get to adjust the valves and finally get into my clutch as well and when I do I'm replacing all plates and springs. A proper from the bottom up bleeding will be in order then too.
 
I am happy to report that my fuel gauge still works as intended after fuel filter replacement and some soul searching about the fuel level sensor fly lead which I just plugged back in without wrapping it around one of the tubes the way it came out, apparently it doesn't matter. I always take manuals with a grain of salt anyhow as they more often than not have you taking apart way more stuff than necessary such as getting the instrument panel out of the way so the tank can be removed. The manual on pg773 (735 actual page #) will have you removing unnecessary headstock components when all that is necessary is removing the 2 allen screws on either side, pulling it out of its bracket wrap it in a rag and zip tie it out of the way.
 
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