A Labor of Love; aka building a Rocket III Speedster

Being that you have shown the need to substitute hardware (nuts and bolts) seals and washers, keep this website handy.....
the largest hardware and mill supply in north america: McMaster-Carr www.mcmaster.com
will ship worldwide
close enough for me to use will-call
 
I've used them a lot, good company.

Have a lot of deciphering to do, ABS Module information is pretty tough to find documentation for.

I've gathered the ZX14 and Rocket 3 use identical looking and pin count Nissin modules with different part #s.

Hayabusa uses a different Nissin module with a different connector/pin count. Appears to have a single fuse instead front/rear like the above.

CBR1000 uses a different Nissin system and has a front/rear modules. Makes sense TBH, use 2 modules to reduce the run length of brake line and link with a can bus.

2016-2019 R1M uses a Bosch unit. This one I'm interested in, mainly because it has cornering ABS enabled by an external (allegedly proprietary) IMU, so there's a method to communicate the IMU data to it.
 
I'm setting the ABS issue aside for now. There are a lot of known unknowns, and I'm sure even more unknown unknowns.

Moving on to something I expect will be more in my wheelhouse, finishing the engine diagnostic, mounting it up in my spare frame, and starting on some foam work.
 
I have officially completed step 1 on reclaiming my garage. Nothing remains except bits to organize (lots of bits).

My new spark plug tool arrived so I was able to pull plugs finally. Did a recheck on valves after remembering intake is .1-.15 and exhaust is .15-.2 instead of what I posted earlier, here are the results.
20230901_133844.jpg

Intake #4 vale and Intake #5 are out of spec...slightly. Going to reshim it all at 0.1Intake and 0.15Exhaust, they dont move enough to make me nervous about going to those gaps. I lost about 0.05mm across the whole valvetrain in 7000 miles of hard life, with a couple of greater and a couple of lesser increments.

Potential wall scoring in #3 I was concerned about it's nothing, just a polish mark with no perceptible depth, a result of sustained high RPM sideloads.
 
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Compression test is happy news-
#1: 204PSI
#2: 210PSI
#3: 204PSI

This is with bare head, no throttlebodies installed and no exhaust, so I'd expect the #s to be a touch down from fully assembled, but I think the 210 comes from valve clearances on #2 being looser on the intake side, acting like a tiny bit smaller cam.

When first assembled this engine did 211/212 across all 3 with even valve clearances. So the deviant cylinder is actually #1/#3, with their now tighter clearances.

Bottom Line:
I'm not opening the engine, I hereby rule it fit for further use after shim adjustment and a slight cam timing change.
 
Last edited:
Compression test is happy news-
#1: 204PSI
#2: 210PSI
#3: 204PSI

This is with bare head, no throttlebodies installed and no exhaust, so I'd expect the #s to be a touch down from fully assembled, but I think the 210 comes from valve clearances on #2 being looser on the intake side, acting like a tiny bit smaller cam.

When first assembled this engine did 211/212 across all 3 with even valve clearances. So the deviant cylinder is actually #1/#3, with their now tighter clearances.

Bottom Line:
I'm not opening the engine, I hereby rule it fit for further use after shim adjustment and a slight cam timing change.
That is good to hear
 
I scoped the cylinders today just out of curiosity, not much to see. Some black piston tops as expected of a richer than stoich engine, no signs of detonation, walls look good.

Inspecting plugs I can say with certainty the cylinders run hottest in order of hottest to coolest 1,2,3, and respectively the plugs looks like
#1 looks bang on
#2 looks a tiny bit fat
#3 looks a tiny bit fatter than #2

No idea if that's normal for RIIIs or if it's just mine, but it's clear to see on the plug insulators.

I've decided on going a custom route on the tail, no Carbon Dry this time, this makes clearing out the stock battery/ECU area a non-issue as it can all go in the tail.

So with that decision, I can start attacking the frame with a cutter this week and start with the custom tail work which I'll need done before it goes in for powder coating.
 
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