Point of clarification, when you state the 30 amp main fuse is blowing, is it fuse #11 or #2 in the fuse holder? I'm assuming it is #11.

Regarding removing all the fuses then installing them one at a time to track down the grounded circuit... the main fuse is a 30 amp and is in spot #11. It feeds the 30 amp fuse in spot #2 for the ignition switch circuit but tees off before that going to the regulator. It also feeds the 20 amp Engine Management fuse #6 to which I wouldn't worry about since it isn't blowing. The lower amp rated fuses should blow before the main 30 amp so pulling them to track down the ground/shorted circuit shouldn't really help. I would install a 30 amp breaker fuse like Turbo stated and check the wiring going to the regulator, starter solenoid relay, and any other starter switch circuits... Check the wiring diagram.

I don't neccessarly agree but the more info the better it is to check
just thinking that the brake lights might go through that main #11 30 amp fuse and if they were grounded out might give you the problem. Have seen car tires that ripped the wires under the fender.
 
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I'll try to explain my theory. Note the 3 red boxes. Far right box points to 30 amp main fuse from battery to fuse block and regulator/rectifier. This feeds the fuse box buss directly at 1, 2, 3, & 4 along with buss at 6 & 7. Only fuse #2 is a 30 amp fuse, all the others are less than 30 (see fuse box position/rating guide provided). I would check the wires running to the regulator/rectifier plug along with the wire running to the fuse box buss. It also could be the output from fuse 2 which appears to feed the ignition circuit which is also rated for 30 amp but you would think it would blow also along with the main 30 amp fuse, that's why I was asking which 30 amp fuse was blowing???
 
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