2011 R3T Completely Dead

[dobro]

Take the old one apart and repair it. It is not that difficult - apart from two tamper-proof screws, and they're not that bad. If you replace it then you will either be carrying two different keys, or you will spend a lot of money getting a different fuel cap and seat lock.

Better still, go "keyless".

If the problem is a contact (as opposed to a loose wire) on either side of an ignition plate like the one shown in the link below I wouldn't know a RELIABLE way to repair it.


http://bonniecafe.com/bonnie-maintenance-corroded-fried-dead-ignition-switch/

 

[DEcosse]

The mechanic says I only need the switch (part T2500532), which won't require changing the ignition key....

T500532 is not the correct one for the US market - that would be T2500564*
The key-switch assembly is exactly that - the LOCK AND the SWITCH, so it does come with a new key.
The overall lock-set includes the Accessories and Panniers Lock Barrels to match the new Key; if you have either of those, you will be using two keys if you just buy item #2 (T2500564*) on fiche, vs #1, complete lock-set.
However it is possible to separate the mechanical key-lock from the electrical switch assembly and swap them - it does require removing the shear-bolts which requires some minor surgery (as being shear-bolts, the heads have snapped off during assembly)

There is a guide on how to dis-assemble the switch in this thread - http://www.r3owners.net/threads/diy-ignition-switch-repair-get-home-keep-your-locks.22420/

 

[dobro]

T500532 is not the correct one for the US market - that would be T2500564*
The key-switch assembly is exactly that - the LOCK AND the SWITCH, so it does come with a new key.
The overall lock-set includes the Accessories and Panniers Lock Barrels to match the new Key; if you have either of those, you will be using two keys if you just buy item #2 (T2500564*) on fiche, vs #1, complete lock-set.
However it is possible to separate the mechanical key-lock from the electrical switch assembly and swap them - it does require removing the shear-bolts which requires some minor surgery (as being shear-bolts, the heads have snapped off during assembly)

There is a guide on how to dis-assemble the switch in this thread - http://www.r3owners.net/threads/diy-ignition-switch-repair-get-home-keep-your-locks.22420/

Decosse, thanks very much for the correct U.S. part number and for the thread with photos about dis-assembling the switch so it is unnecessary to replace the lock and thereby wind up with different keys for the ignition and saddlebags, and avoid the additional expense for the new lock and keys.

 

[dobro]

I've been waiting for the ignition switch to arrive for 2 weeks and riding my bike in the interim. Today it was dead for the first time in about 3 weeks. The horn did work but the accessory lights, fuel pump, turn signals and headlight and driving lights did not. I vigorously turned the handlebars but that did not help. After turning the key about 10 times it started right up. The weird thing is that while the headlight came on immediately with the accessory lights and fuel pump the driving lights did not come on till about 10 seconds later.

 

[johnreeder]

I've been waiting for the ignition switch to arrive for 2 weeks and riding my bike in the interim. Today it was dead for the first time in about 3 weeks. The horn did work but the accessory lights, fuel pump, turn signals and headlight and driving lights did not. I vigorously turned the handlebars but that did not help. After turning the key about 10 times it started right up. The weird thing is that while the headlight came on immediately with the accessory lights and fuel pump the driving lights did not come on till about 10 seconds later.

Did replacing the fuel pump fix it? I'm having the same problem with my 2008. The strange thing is it never quits once it's started. But it did fail to start on two occasions and both times only the horn would operate.

 

[johnreeder]

Did replacing the fuel pump fix it? I'm having the same problem with my 2008. The strange thing is it never quits once it's started. But it did fail to start on two occasions and both times only the horn would operate.

I meant to say "Did replacing the ignition switch fix it".

 

[dobro]

I meant to say "Did replacing the ignition switch fix it".

No problems since the ignition switch was replaced. There weren't any visible indications of a problem on the exterior of the switch. When I get in the mood I'll crack it open to see if the apparent malfunction is visible inside the switch.

 

[steve59]

hm, I thought that was a R3R issue and because of the single headlight on the touring your bikes were more or less immune to the melting.

 

[Bedifferent]

hm, I thought that was a R3R issue and because of the single headlight on the touring your bikes were more or less immune to the melting.

Shortly after buying my 2013 touring, I read about all the switch issues on the roadsters. I decided....if excess current through the switch can be an issue it was worth the time and effort to do the EB relay kit on my touring. That's exactly what I did. The direct connection to the battery does slightly improve the headlight performance as well. Just saying...an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

 

[1olbull]

PDM60 with IGN. bypass!
contact @DEcosse for the dope.