2011 R3T Completely Dead

[1olbull]

Has he installed a NEW battery?

 

[dobro]

+1
Made same suggestion in my very first reply in this thread

I'm taking my bike back to the mechanic today. I will ask him to disconnect the engine ground to see if the lights and ignition still work. If they do still work, I will tell him to check the ignition cylinder to be sure the shear bolts are securing the upper and lower halves of the cylinder and to check the ignition connector under the tank for any loose connections or browning and if he sees it to bridge the browned wire. I will also tell him to check the connections on the small branch of the negative battery cable. I'll be leaving for that shop in about an hour so please tell me any additional suggestions you have for him.

 

[dobro]

I'm taking my bike back to the mechanic today. I will ask him to disconnect the engine ground to see if the lights and ignition still work. If they do still work, I will tell him to check the ignition cylinder to be sure the shear bolts are securing the upper and lower halves of the cylinder and to check the ignition connector under the tank for any loose connections or browning and if he sees it to bridge the browned wire. I will also tell him to check the connections on the small branch of the negative battery cable. I'll be leaving for that shop in about an hour so please tell me any additional suggestions you have for him.

Just got off the phone with the mechanic. He completed all of the above (he said it "makes perfect sense to me" to do it) and he found no abnormalities. He said only suggestion he can come up with now is to order a new ignition switch. He disconnected the neg battery cable from the engine ground and the lights/ign kept working as Decosse said they would. There was only that single lead connected to that engine ground point. He checked the ground connections to the branch off that cable and they were good. He checked the key cylinder and it is mechanically intact. He checked the ignition connector wires and none were loose or browned.

 

[idk]

Take the old one apart and repair it. It is not that difficult - apart from two tamper-proof screws, and they're not that bad. If you replace it then you will either be carrying two different keys, or you will spend a lot of money getting a different fuel cap and seat lock.

Better still, go "keyless".

 

[steve59]

my highly technical fix is to swing the handlebars hard left then right until the problem goes away, i had the eb kit with switch installed so hopefully the problem doesn't get worse but sometimes i'l turn the key and get nothing, sometimes the right side or left side, sometimes no dashboard but headlights work. it's still better than the days of lucas.

 

[dobro]

my highly technical fix is to swing the handlebars hard left then right until the problem goes away, i had the eb kit with switch installed so hopefully the problem doesn't get worse but sometimes i'l turn the key and get nothing, sometimes the right side or left side, sometimes no dashboard but headlights work. it's still better than the days of lucas.

Canberra also suggested turning the handlebars the next time it won't start and I will try it, as well as trying the horn and brake lights and turn signals to narrow down the possible causes.

 

[DEcosse]

Come on guys -seriously?
That might get him home in emergency but really need to find the root cause - one day that 'fix' won't work & left to call the tow truck
But it might be a useful aid in trying to determine the source of issue, if you can force a fail

 

[dobro]

Come on guys -seriously?
That might get him home in emergency but really need to find the root cause - one day that 'fix' won't work & left to call the tow truck
But it might be a useful aid in trying to determine the source of issue, if you can force a fail

For months, maybe more than a year, sometimes when I hit the starter switch after the accessory lights have come on the speedo and the fuel pump has primed, nothing at all happens. Then I immediately hit it again the bike always starts right up. Now that is obviously different than the problem I've had recently where the accessory lights on the speedo won't come on and the pump won't prime in the first place but does it lead to an explanation for these recent problems?

 

[dobro]

Take the old one apart and repair it. It is not that difficult - apart from two tamper-proof screws, and they're not that bad. If you replace it then you will either be carrying two different keys, or you will spend a lot of money getting a different fuel cap and seat lock.

Better still, go "keyless".

The mechanic says I only need the switch (part T2500532), which won't require changing the ignition key, and since I have a touring the gas cap and seat aren't keyed.

 

[CanberraR3]

Come on guys -seriously?
That might get him home in emergency but really need to find the root cause - one day that 'fix' won't work & left to call the tow truck
But it might be a useful aid in trying to determine the source of issue, if you can force a fail

I suggested it as a way to diagnose the problem. If turning the bars brings the lights back then the problem is definitely in that connector block or the wires running to it.