Winter modifications

warp9.9 said:

Ok not sure where your going there but since its virtually the same as the one you sent me then its still missing the leverage gained in the OEM shifter. And again if I find another OEM shifter I'll cut the rear off it thus retaining the leverage!!!

Click to expand...

warp9.9 said:

I'm not against changing to a toe shifter, just would like to maintain the leverage applied by the OEM shifter verses no leverage ergonomics of one attatched straight on the spline. Might find another OEM one and remove the heal section to try.

Click to expand...

Warpo,
How do you figure that shifting through all that linkage requires less force than shifting directly from the splined tranny shaft?

1olbull said:

Warpo,
How do you figure that shifting through all that linkage requires less force than shifting directly from the splined tranny shaft?

Click to expand...

Physics, and a Pixie's prod versus a Bear's paw!

1K9 said:

Click to expand...

Postage for you US$7.61. Ours is US$47.63 EXTRA or US$55.28

Postage for us in Oz
Postage:
US $39.71 (approx. AU $58.03) International Priority Shipping to Australia

Item location:
Haltom City, Texas, United States

GST and Import charges:
US $15.53 (amount confirmed at checkout)

Ishrub said:

Physics, and a Pixie's prod versus a Bear's paw!

Click to expand...

I would reckon the more fulcrums and moment arms added serve to increase the force neceseary, not to reduce it.
After all tis not a pully system.

Winter -- funny how the mind works (unless one is in So Cali, Brownsville, or Orlando). All this nice weather recently, and I was too busy to look at the bike. 23ºF this morning (my Honda CTX700D would NOT start this morning, and fortunately, the motor pool people are prepared for that, and a guy came by in his Gator and portable boost unit, and I was on my way, with heated grips and seat, plus plug-in vest and gloves), and expected 19ºF tomorrow morning, and I have the urge to do something to the bike. Of course, now it's a pain. Thanks to a suggestion from @Rocket Scientist a while back, I now have three 1,500W electric heaters to heat our 12' x 24' garage. But the joke is on the electric company because we have an electric car and jumped early on an "experimental" electric rate some years ago (first 750 [!] customers to sign up), and with that rate, we have a meter that measures by the hour, and they defined a "super off peak" rate where they give the electricity away (started six minutes ago as I type this -- 2300 EST) -- and our 2019 Chevy BOLT (a number of y'all saw it at Maggie Valley last) just started charging.

So what is all this fuss ?

In the process of installing a variation on @JSHRAM Coil Over Plug mod (COP) for standard coil removal with fancy parts from @DEcosse -- I somehow managed to create an odd short in the horn wiring (y'all may remember I aped @TXtriple Installing An 18" Air Horn...'Cause Bigger Is Better!, so tapped into the bike's horn circuit - which is nowhere near the sparkplugs, but now when I turn on the ignition, the horn blows to let the neighborhood know I'm about to start the bike -- or work with TuneECU.

Hopefully by morning (I'm working night shift this week and next) I'll have this sorted.

I hope your not backing it up!

Sound signals are composed of short (TOOT) and prolonged blasts and must be audible for at least one-half mile.
Sound signals let others know where you are located during periods of restricted visibility.

• One prolonged blast at intervals of not more than two minutes is the signal used when underway.

Sound signals are used to warn others or alert them to danger.

• One prolonged blast is a warning signal (for example, used when coming around a blind bend).
• Five (or more) rapid TOOTs are used to signal danger and that you disagree with the other's intentions.

TOOT (one short blast) or TOOT TOOT (two short blasts) Three TOOTs tell others “I am backing up.”

Click to expand...

1olbull said:

I would reckon the more fulcrums and moment arms added serve to increase the force neceseary, not to reduce it.
After all tis not a pully system.

Click to expand...

Fulcrums and levers

Lever - Wikipedia

A lever (/ˈliːvər/ or US: /ˈlɛvər/) is a simple machine consisting of a beam or rigid rod pivoted at a fixed hinge, or fulcrum. A lever is a rigid body capable of rotating on a point on itself. On the basis of the location of fulcrum, load and effort, the lever is divided into three types. It is one of the six simple machines identified by Renaissance scientists. A lever amplifies an input force to provide a greater output force, which is said to provide leverage. The ratio of the output force to the input force is the mechanical advantage of the lever.
......................


....Class 2: Resistance (or load) in the middle: the effort is applied on one side of the resistance and the fulcrum is located on the other side, e.g. in a wheelbarrow, a nutcracker, a bottle opener or the brake pedal of a car, the load arm is smaller than the effort arm, and the mechanical advantage is always greater than one. It is also called force multiplier lever.

Click to expand...

Doesn't the lengthened lever length increase leverage? If you had an equivalent length lever direct to output shaft you would need a very long foot.

1olbull said:

Warpo,
How do you figure that shifting through all that linkage requires less force than shifting directly from the splined tranny shaft?

Click to expand...

Is a wheel Barrow easier to pick up and rotate on the tire with or with out them wooden things you grab on to surely you could just grab the tub and lift. Oh and I also pointed out how many miles I have on the OEM heal toe shifter can play a big deal in it.

For me... very little force is required to effect the gear change. I personally like the direct feel of the toe shifter without the linkages. My toe has much more neuromotor control than my heel, specially when using the Bull tuned Daytona boots. The heel just has more force. A lot of people use the heel shifter with the toe to push-shift to the next gear. It feels and looks kool doing that. Originally I just wanted the heel shifter off because it gave me the option to use the whole platform to place my foot on. Plus, I could tuck my foot about one inch closer to the bike without the linkages. Plus, I think it looks kool.

Scott... If you like your heel shifter... go at it. A lot of people do. The shifter I sent you is a piece of motorcycle art. If you are not going to use it please bring it to RAA East or mail it to me. Perhaps someone else will see mine and say... hey that shifter looks kool, can I try it? and it gives me the chance to make a fellow rider happy.