What Octane to run?

Guys, go puck up an ethanol test kit. It is nothing more than a graduated vial that you add water and fuel, shake and measure the separation line. The amount of ethanol from many sources is much higher than the 9% mandated - especially if you purchase fuel from stations with little sales, where fuel has had time to settle and separate.

That's a good point, but that would imply 10% loss in the drive train, and that seems high for a shaft drive.

OEMs are allowed (encouraged) to overestimate rated crankshaft output by 10%. Losses through transmission, final drive, tire, etc. can exceed 20% at higher torque output.
Also, there are many ways to measure output. At acceleration rate decreases, output tends to do the same - even on eddy current dynos.
 

thanks bloke you just answered a query that's been running in my head for a while now because in the book under my seat it says 91 (& yes please someone tell my wife I DID rtfm 1 time) even though the stealer said run it on 98...
 

It is simple, and you don't need a kit. A graduated cylinder is all you need.

I don't know what it is like in your neck of the woods, but around here the fuel inventory is constantly changing.
Routinely selling E30 when someone buys E10 would put you in line for a lawsuit in light of the industry's aversion to having anything more than E10 in a tank.

The Prius, for example, has a fuel bladder that can be degraded by contact with ethanol in greater concentration than 10%. If Prius owners were seeing degradation of the bladder attributable to excess ethanol, I guarantee that there would be class action suits to follow.



I'm going to call pure, unadulterated BS on this one.

There have been lawsuits over stated power, and this has led to the SAE certification process whereby an unbiased independent certified observer establishes that proper test procedures were followed, and that the results reported were the actual results.

There have even been class action suits over the issue of overstated results for both power and mpg. In fact, I was a recipient of two cash awards a few years ago since I had owned two vehicles in the class.

I have an eddy current dyno ... These are still consumer products, not research grade equipment. I think I gave around $30K for mine. It would have cost $300K+ to get a research grade unit at the time.

The most sophisticated dynos, used in virtually all factory test cells, can distinguish output differences all the way down to small fractions of horsepowers. An eddy current dyno is typically an order of magnitude or more less useful. One of my former students was chief engineer for a prominent NASCAR team many years ago, and his take on it was that he could find about 20 hp per year, but that he found it a quarter hp at a time. As sloppy as you describe things, it would be just about impossible to discern quarter hp differences.

I really don't want to get into a p**sing contest on this stuff, so I'm out. I may post results after I've checked four samples of local E10 and E0 from Kroger, Exxon, Shell, and Gulf. Or, more likely, I'll lose interest.
 
Alcohol is the reason that we have fuel pumps in the tank when they first started this everybody's motors were vapor locking and to cure the problem instead of removing alcohol they put fuel pumps in tank so they were pushing the fuel. So we went from a $25 fuel pump $10 put it on to $360 for the pump and $300 put it on. In my observation of our Bureaucratic idiots and our EPA college-educated idiots it now costs you $660 for fuel pump instead of $35
 
Dealers might be telling people to run premium fuel out of ignorance and or laziness. Dealerships need to have a stock of fuel to put in the bikes they sell. Also, if there's a workshop they need it there too. Unless they have bowsers they will stock the fuel in drums and I know they can't be bothered getting different types for different bikes and will almost always only get the highest octane they need for anything. What some might be telling people is that they'd filled a bike up with Premium or even recommending it but only because that's all they have. Ignore them and use what Triumph says.
 
OK - You should use the LOWEST OCTANE YOU CAN without detrimental effects.
Low Octane fuels have HIGHER calorific values. Better economy and efficiency as long as they do not pre-ignite.

Thank God the E% thing is still not a worry here.
One of the biggest issues with fuels is that the shorter and non aromatic hydrocarbon chains WILL polymerise over time.
There are ways to keep them short - but it's deemed to be smoke and mirrors by folk with other agendas (and with MONEY).

YOU DO NOT NEED THEM ON A STANDARD R3. I have used them on old (1960's) vehicles KNOWN for having knocking issues and they worked for me. It's Russian WW2 technology. The history is real - the Patents exist. They're sold as "Fuel Catalyst". Masses of controversy. I use them on my 1979 Guzzi using low grade unleaded - before it'd "pink" occasionally even on 98.