What now? (bad idle and poor running)

After start up, and engine is warm 2 to 3 minutes is it idleing perfectly at whatever rpm you have set it too, 950? 1000? Is it smooth once warm idleing in place before you leave on ride.
 
Ok, so I tried a few things this morning before work. I connected a hose to the MAP sensor and sucked on it- it held, so no obvious cracks or leaks. Still, when the other one comes in I'm going to replace that one.

Next I reset the ISCV. The TPS was at .64 not .60 like I set is just a week ago- hmmmm. It was 27℉, so maybe (?) that had something to do with it. Anyway, I adjusted it to 60. As I thought, there is no way to adjust the stepper motor for the second setting without the linkage. I turned the nut on the stepper and it had no effect- unless is was so far out and just needed to be turned a lot further. I suspect it needs to press against the idle screw cam to get a reading.

I reset adaptation.

It behaved perfectly to and from work, but experience tells me that I should expect it to act up again soon.

Plans for the next few days: replace vacuum hose, MAP sensor, check voltage on TPS, check voltage on coils. Am I forgetting anything?
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If the tps is not holding voltage you set it to it may be an issue. But at.60 youre in spec, but you setting to .64 and it sliding to .60 a few days later after some good roding could be a sign its starting to fail.
or u r not getting it to full closed position
at full closed position it will not run!!!
 
back off the idle stop screw to close throttle then set tps to .60/.62
I'm not sure this has been answered, or I misunderstood. @Kevin frazier do you back off the idle stop screw before setting your TPS, as Turbo200R4 suggests, then readjust idle - or are you leaving it at the proper idle setting while setting TPS?

This is a source of confusion I've seen come up before. When you say left side of the throttle bodies that agrees with the parts diagram which is a view from the motor looking out- in other words not as you would normally face the throttle bodies. Please correct me if I am wrong, but I would describe the primary TPS (#2) as being on the right side when facing the bike.

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let me ask this question does it act up more when when cold or hot?
With a few exceptions.... almost always when hot.
After start up, and engine is warm 2 to 3 minutes is it idleing perfectly at whatever rpm you have set it too, 950? 1000? Is it smooth once warm idleing in place before you leave on ride.
Yes, when it isn't acting up.
 
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When you face the throttle bodies the primary TPS is on the right side (it is confusing). The throttle cables are on the left.
Also, the .60volt reading is for a fully closed throttle. If you have previously adjusted the idle stop screw when you removed your stepper motor, you need to back it off so that the throttle plates are closed, adjust TPS to .60v then readjust idle screw to your desired idle speed. I think the .72v is the setting the stepper motor tries to keep the TPS at while idling. In effect it is a moving idle stop screw'

One thing I'm curious about the next time you are monitoring TPS voltages, note the .60volts then slowly open the throttle. See if the voltage goes up slowly and in a linear fashion to confirm there are no dead spots. Next, try tapping the TPS to see if you get any fluctuation on voltage readings. If you do, replace.
 
Thats correct tps is on left side of throttle bodies, looking at it the tps is on your right, i set my tps while engine is off, then i start engine and set idle. Once idleing we have adjusted tps if need be. So while on tune ecu i would get bike idleing real smooth and look at tps in tune ecu and if not at .64 i move to .64 and have had no issues. Make sure and check that tune ecu is saying that you are at zero percent throttle at idle while checking/setting tps.
 
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About a week ago my fuel level quit working. It goes down but doesn't show when you put gas in. Raising the tank kinda fixes it and it starts the countdown again until the next fill up- another item on the "to be fixed" list.
Just FYI- I just found out that the clutch switch and fuel level indicator are connected (or associated somehow) in the ECU. I forget the order of things, but my fuel level indicator went out just before or after I fixed the switch. Read all about it here...
 
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