What now? (bad idle and poor running)

[TURBO200R4]

When you face the throttle bodies the primary TPS is on the right side (it is confusing). The throttle cables are on the left.
Also, the .60volt reading is for a fully closed throttle. If you have previously adjusted the idle stop screw when you removed your stepper motor, you need to back it off so that the throttle plates are closed, adjust TPS to .60v then readjust idle screw to your desired idle speed. I think the .72v is the setting the stepper motor tries to keep the TPS at while idling. In effect it is a moving idle stop screw'

One thing I'm curious about the next time you are monitoring TPS voltages, note the .60volts then slowly open the throttle. See if the voltage goes up slowly and in a linear fashion to confirm there are no dead spots. Next, try tapping the TPS to see if you get any fluctuation on voltage readings. If you do, replace.

this is correct
the only thing i could possibly add is the way i think about it
i seem to think front and rear
the primary tps is in the rear

 

[Journeyman]

A lot of the sensors can be tested with an voltmeter while on the bike. MAP and TPS usually have 3 wires each. One wire will be ground, the other power (5 volts) and the other signal voltage, which is usually low at idle increasing as you open throttle. I have checked them on other vehicles and outboards by inserting a paper clip into the connector on the signal and ground wires, then hooking up a voltmeter to read the voltage as you open/close throttle. A smooth transition from 1 to 5 volts and back should take place. Similar for MAP sensor but you would use a vacuum pump to test or the engine itself.

Here is one of many videos on how to test these sensors. how to test a tps sensor with a multimeter - Google Suche

@R-III-R Turbo

 

[Journeyman]

Update:

• I replaced the vacuum hoses a couple of days ago- except for the one going to the MAP sensor. I have 2mm tubing on the way for that one.
• I finally got the used (but low mileage) MAP sensor from PinWall, but it is not a Triumph part- a Mitsubishi logo and I can't find a cross reference anywhere. It was off a Daytona that uses the same T1292015 part as the Rocket 3, but this says 1292007. I'm contacting Pinwall.
• I also got a new Primary TPS. I may install it tomorrow before work.

So, it's been running fine for days and then today it started acting up again- same, same. Me thinks- TPS, Coil, Fuel Filter. I'm tempted to throw everything at it at once and be done with it.

 

[sonny]

Fuel filter should be changed every 20,000 miles. I change mine every 15,000. Oklahoma gas can be dirty at times.

 

[Journeyman]

Fuel filter should be changed every 20,000 miles. I change mine every 15,000. Oklahoma gas can be dirty at times.

 

[Journeyman]

I changed min about 14K ago, but that doesn't mean it might not be time again. I have the part ready- It's on my tick list.

 

[Gerald]

Update:

• I replaced the vacuum hoses a couple of days ago- except for the one going to the MAP sensor. I have 2mm tubing on the way for that one.
• I finally got the used (but low mileage) MAP sensor from PinWall, but it is not a Triumph part- a Mitsubishi logo and I can't find a cross reference anywhere. It was off a Daytona that uses the same T1292015 part as the Rocket 3, but this says 1292007. I'm contacting Pinwall.
• I also got a new Primary TPS. I may install it tomorrow before work.

So, it's been running fine for days and then today it started acting up again- same, same. Me thinks- TPS, Coil, Fuel Filter. I'm tempted to throw everything at it at once and be done with it.

Personally I would fight the impulse to replace everything at once, would never know which caused the problem, but you are the only one with "skin in the game".

 

[Journeyman]

Update:

• I replaced the vacuum hoses a couple of days ago- except for the one going to the MAP sensor. I have 2mm tubing on the way for that one.
• I finally got the used (but low mileage) MAP sensor from PinWall, but it is not a Triumph part- a Mitsubishi logo and I can't find a cross reference anywhere. It was off a Daytona that uses the same T1292015 part as the Rocket 3, but this says 1292007. I'm contacting Pinwall.
• I also got a new Primary TPS. I may install it tomorrow before work.

So, it's been running fine for days and then today it started acting up again- same, same. Me thinks- TPS, Coil, Fuel Filter. I'm tempted to throw everything at it at once and be done with it.

1-20-21
I put a new Primary TPS in this morning before work. I have to say that it ran better across the entire throttle range. It's definitely quieter and smoother running. I would say that was the needed fix, but it's too soon to know for sure.

 

[Journeyman]

1-20-21
I put a new Primary TPS in this morning before work. I have to say that it ran better across the entire throttle range. It's definitely quieter and smoother running. I would say that was the needed fix, but it's too soon to know for sure.

After work I made up for my rush this morning. I readjusted the throttle bodies- bang on now. I backed the idle screw off THEN set the TPS after making a beer can shim for the new TPS. Starts, runs, and idles smoothly.

I tested the new TPS (with multitester as @R-III-R Turbo instructed in video above) and an older one I pulled off before having a dyno and they both performed with close values. This evening I did the same test with the one I just replaced and it was all over the place. I'm feeling pretty confident that the Primary TPS was at fault. I'm going to now leave well enough along and see what happens over the next couple of weeks, then I will likely reinstall my stepper motor linkage.

If this isn't it I'm convinced that she just likes to have her shoulders rubbed and her feet massaged every couple of days....

 

[R-III-R Turbo]

Sounds like you got sorted. Go team!