What did you do to your Rocket today?

[Ishrub]

I finally got time in the garage after pi55ing off the wife.

Tank is nearly empty so time to fit the rubber tank supports that I brought 3 months ago.

And the weather is a bit damp so also giving the beast a bit of a clean.

Not looking forward to doing the wheels.

Or going back inside yet!

 

[Ishrub]

i sure hope that they did not use 2l of fork fluid
one liter would would do 4 bikes

Ahh nope 1 litre 334 cc for a pair.
Manual:
Oil refilling
The oil level specified for Rocket III and Classic forks is 89 mm from the upper surface of the fork outer tube, with the springs removed and the fork fully compressed.

1. Fill the fork with SAE Sw (or Kayaba KHL 15-10> fork oil until the oil level is slightly above the recommended level. Alternatively add 667cc of oil if filling a completely empty fork.

2. Pump the fork assembly and damper several times to expel any trapped air then fully compress the fork
and support it in an upright position. Leave the fork for a few minutes to allow the oil level to stabilise.

3. Set the scale on tool 3880160-T0301 to the specified level (dimension A below).

Note:
• Zero level on the tool is set at the small exit
hole in the side of the scale tube, NOT AT THE
END TIP. Do not attempt to block this sidehole,
as this will cause the final fluid level to be
incorrect.
4. Insert the scale end of the tool into the fork inner
tube.
5. Hold the tool adjuster plate level with the upper
surface of the fork outer tube and draw fluid into the
syringe until fluid flow ceases (empty the syringe if
the body becomes full before fluid flow stops).
6. The fluid level in the fork is now set to the height set
on the tool scale. Check the tool scale setting and
repeat the process if incorrectly set.
Incorrect oil levels, particularly over filling, can result in
damage to the fork seals. Damaged fork seals are a
dangerous riding condition that can lead to loss of
motorcycle control and an accident.
Z Position the fork assembly as for compression of the
fork spring during strip down.
8. Insert the fork spring and spring cap to the outer
tube.
9. Attach tool 3880085-T0301 to the threads of the
damper rod and pull the damper upwards.
cbov
1. Tool
3880085-T0301
10. Refit the spring spacer.

 

[Ishrub]

I did The front seal on one side of my Rocket Inside the Homer Tunnel.

Still had a short ride to get back to town.
Cost $400 bucks to go with the new rear tire that cost $585 two days early. Expensive trip away to the The Bert Munro Challenge week.

Aha, the doghouse for you, young man.

 

[FE_rex]

The doghouse!!!!

 

[1olbull]

I reckon a tad more explanation is in order regarding my previous rear brake reservoir relocate post.
You may notice the Nyloc nut at the mid-left of the chrome cover. This is the change.

The rear brake reservoir has a single sleeved mount hole at its left side. At the back side, this hole is surrounded by two horizontal ridges.
I used a 1/4 x 20 wing bolt that I had laying around (you can purchase a metric M6X30mm wing bolt) and inserted it from the back side toward the front side through the mount hole. The wings sitting in between the horizontal ridges hold the bolt from turning. I drilled a corresponding hole through the chrome cover.
Tightening up the Nyloc nut pulls the reservoir outboard and up next to the chrome cover. This also allows you to easily read the low and full level marks through the slot in the chrome cover.
After snugging up the Nyloc nut, I used a cut-off air tool to remove the excess bolt flush with the nut.
The OEM rubber hose that connects the reservoir to the master cylinder reaches just fine after rotating it a little clockwise to accommodate.
This has added at least an inch more clearance between the reservoir and my CES headers and should greatly reduce the heat affecting the brake fluid.
After one day ride my brakes are now working fine. Fingers crossed that this continues . . .

 

[tribal]

Ahh nope 1 litre 334 cc for a pair.
Manual:
Oil refilling
The oil level specified for Rocket III and Classic forks is 89 mm from the upper surface of the fork outer tube, with the springs removed and the fork fully compressed.

1. Fill the fork with SAE Sw (or Kayaba KHL 15-10> fork oil until the oil level is slightly above the recommended level. Alternatively add 667cc of oil if filling a completely empty fork.

That’s per fork side= .667litre or total for both?

Also, I had them cut the preload bushing 10mm shorter as per the instructions from Wilber’s engineer (the ones in the box are wrong as per my previous rant).

They then said to leave 110mm air space
To accomplish about 1/2” lowering.

Not sure how much less fluid that 21mm air delta would result in.

If the total needed is 1 liter or less I will call and complain as I paid for 2 bottles but I need to be sure.

 

[Ishrub]

That’s per fork side= .667litre or total for both?

Also, I had them cut the preload bushing 10mm shorter as per the instructions from Wilber’s engineer (the ones in the box are wrong as per my previous rant).

They then said to leave 110mm air space
To accomplish about 1/2” lowering.

Not sure how much less fluid that 21mm air delta would result in.

If the total needed is 1 liter or less I will call and complain as I paid for 2 bottles but I need to be sure.

667ml per fork leg. It would be pretty tricky to get 333.5. I would worry which got 333 or 334!

There is quite a bit of variability and I would be surprised if many ever did a dry fill except after new sliders or tubes fitted.

Wilbers have there own recommendation which is quite different from factory specs.

From a noted member of days of old:

Itt's just like Triumph to employ a turkey baster.....Actually, they give a compressed liquid level as well as a dry fill quantity but they also call out two different specifications on fork oil. The compressed level is very easy to measure (just like the Bonnie forks). That's what I'll use 89mm from the top surface of the tube with the fork full compressed or 667cc of fluid.

Air over oil forks are really common on dirt bikes and ADV bikes. It's one of the more common modifications to the KLR and it's easy to do, even for the Rocket. Just machine the caps and install Schrader valves. What you really want to do, however, is plumb both Schrader valves together....you want equal pressure in both forks and air over oil will do nothing for leaking seals other than make them worse. Air over oil will redcuce nose dive on heavy braking considerably but it will also increase the ride stiffness.

Once the seals start to weep, they only get worse, never better.

 

[Claviger]

I did some research.

Found a second distributor for 17x6 rocket wheels. Looking into it, but, seems promising thus far!

Naturally it's from my favorite country.

http://shatterwoodcustomgarage.com.au/

 

[Bigjaype]

Wife and I jumped on the rocket and went to the boat show. Found this lurking at the Suzuki outboard stand.

Road home in a major rainstorm...got properly wet but had a blast anyway.

 

[barbagris]

I did some research.

Found a second distributor for 17x6 rocket wheels. Looking into it, but, seems promising thus far!

Naturally it's from my favorite country.

http://shatterwoodcustomgarage.com.au/

One awaits sir's findings. Looks very like David Taylors stuff in the UK. Taylor-Made Wheels - Custom Engineering, Big Wheels for Bikes