Warning Lite - Oil lite stays on

[hossr]

Have you pulled the oil tank and sump for inspection too?

I have not pulled the "Oil Tank" yet, and as for the SUMP what do you mean by that? In my inspection what would I be looking for???
Thanks,

 

[R-III-R Turbo]

I have not pulled the "Oil Tank" yet, and as for the SUMP what do you mean by that? In my inspection what would I be looking for???
Thanks,

Sump as in the bottom plate of the engine. The oil tank has a couple of pipes connecting it to the crankcase, one of those is the channel through which the oil goes down to the pressure pump etc - you said the oil in the tank was not going anywhere?

Those 2 parts of the oil circuit, along with the filter and the pressure pump sitting below and behind the clutch, can be checked for blockage/fault before splitting the cases.

Re oil pressure pump and water pump drive- skip to 2:27

 

[hossr]

I have done that already - this has been removed - so I look in the whole after the complete Water Pump has been removed and I see the shaft and connection that comes from the water pump shaft that interconnects to it... Do I not need to remove the complete water pump?

I put the Water Pump back on with the cover off and connected to the internal shaft and the Water Pump's Impeller does NOT spin. Next Step/s????

 

[hossr]

Sump as in the bottom plate of the engine. The oil tank has a couple of pipes connecting it to the crankcase, one of those is the channel through which the oil goes down to the pressure pump etc - you said the oil in the tank was not going anywhere?

Those 2 parts of the oil circuit, along with the filter and the pressure pump sitting below and behind the clutch, can be checked for blockage/fault before splitting the cases.

Re oil pressure pump and water pump drive- skip to 2:27

I can look at this - I wish I know that when I put on the new gasket on this pan... I will look into this later this evening. - thank you!

 

[hossr]

Folks, let's do a reset here: This is what we know currently-

• Oil does flow all the way from the Oil Tank to the Oil Pan
  • How do you say - I pulled the plug again from the oil pan and drained all of the oil out of the bike - the dip stick which as a little over max was now dry.
• The water pump "Shaft" does turn/spin when the engine is turned over so we know that gear is connect at least.
• We don't know if the tubes in the bottom of the oil pan are plugged like the comment above - but if the oil in now empty in the oil Tank then would we expect that these tubes are free of debris?
  • If not do we need to pull these two tubes out and see?
• With the radiator now off and the Water Pump pulled is it time to take off the Side Cover and look inside?

Gentlemen, thank you for your patience on this and your help.

 

[hossr]

Current pic

 

[TURBO200R4]

i have never been in side the eng so i will bow to the experts

 

[Gerald]

Folks, let's do a reset here: This is what we know currently-

• Oil does flow all the way from the Oil Tank to the Oil Pan
  • How do you say - I pulled the plug again from the oil pan and drained all of the oil out of the bike - the dip stick which as a little over max was now dry.
• The water pump "Shaft" does turn/spin when the engine is turned over so we know that gear is connect at least.
• We don't know if the tubes in the bottom of the oil pan are plugged like the comment above - but if the oil in now empty in the oil Tank then would we expect that these tubes are free of debris?
  • If not do we need to pull these two tubes out and see?
• With the radiator now off and the Water Pump pulled is it time to take off the Side Cover and look inside?

Gentlemen, thank you for your patience on this and your help.

If you had a siphon type parts washing spray gun you might apply rubber hoses to the spray nozzle and fit it to filter base and spray oil to fill galleys, etc., add enough oil to tank, install filter, start engine and see if pumping oil. Could take valve cover off and see if lubricating cams.

 

[Gregger]

Hossr.
Could you find out from the previous owner what the original problem was and what they tried doing to fix it? When selling something, many people will understate the issue. Also, from what I've gathered, assume there is no oil pressure (Do not run the engine any more!!!). Roughly how long have you run it with the light on? What about the previous owner? I hope it hasn't run long enough to mess up the main, con rod and camshaft bearings (head screwed) as well as scoring the crank and cam journals. When checking for no oil pressure, try to perform the tests without starting the engine. Pull 1 spark plug from each cylinder and use the starter to check for/build up oil pressure. Given where you are now and the noise you are hearing, I'd at least pull the sump to inspect for debris in the pick up screens such as bearing swarf, gasket sealant, etc. The sump pan is relatively easy to remove.

 

[Mike Rocket]

it would be a big mistake to start working on a motor without knowing what is wrong with it!
1st check oil pressure sensor by grounding oil sensor. if the light goes out then that wires/system is ok.
then u r down to bad sensor or bad pump/loss of pressure.
if light stays on then u have problem with wires/electric system and probably not a problem with the oil pressure.

is oil sensor good or bad ?
did you make sure u have oil in the oil reserve tank (no oil = no pressure.)
the last time i changed oil i had the idea of a fast oil change so i removed the filter and started the motor and the flow was good
it did not reach the front tire. (should have the fast oil change perfected after a couple more changes.
i would at a minimum make sure the tank is full and pull the filter and start see if it pumps. (a bout 3 seconds then turn off)

Could be the oil pump drive chain broken. I think you can get access to one of the oil pumps through the front of the engine without removing it from the frame. Its worth a look first.