Triumph Quit Ignoring Your Ignition Problems

ok understood,,the symptoms were exactly the same as previous ,which lead us to checking out,,we had I busted wire,and a couple suspect,coming around the headstock and into ignition ,1 had been repaired previous,which had a weak spot in it,Ive repaired that,and lengthened it ,another seemed weak,which again Ive lengthened,and shes back running,,maybe the actual amps etc are different,but on mine,,it appears the wiring harness has been maybe been suffering from being slightly too short,,or poor quality wiring to start with,which fatiques over time,and fails,that said,,now I know theres a weak spot,I,m having a mate make up a wiring harness for that area,using some proper quality wiring,,and a little longer to hopefully prevent this again,
 
I have a couple questions about the Easternbeaver kits. I'm thinking I may install one on my 2015 R3T even though the ignition problem apparently isn't a big issue with the single headlight Touring. But I may install one anyway because I sometimes ride with the running (driving) lights on and I'm assuming that's probably drawing about as much current as having two headlights on with a Roadster. Also, I see there are some folks here who've had the ignition problem with their Touring. Easterbeaver discourages asking questions of them, which I understand, and I've alread asked one question of the owner, Jim Davis, so I don't want to bother him again. (He got right back to me.) So, at Jim's recommendation, I'm thinking of getting the H4 single in-shell kit with the extra wire for the running lights. But the kit has an option to include "LO Cut Integrated into this Kit." What exactly is that? Also, the description for the extra lead for the running lights says it plugs into THE toggle switch but the lead doesn't look long enough to reach the running light switch in the left-hand handlbar control housing. (I'll have to go out and see if it can even plug into that toggle switch which would have to be taken apart (no problem) but I'm not sure it would even fit in the switch housing. Maybe I'm just misunderstanding how the running light wire is plugged in. Since the kit is generic and isn't made specifically for the R3T, maybe it can be simply plugged into running light switches on some bikes.

So, has anyone installed this kit on their R3T who can clarify these things before I place an order? That is, what is the "LO cut" option, and how is the extra lead for the running lights connected on an R3T?

Then, maybe the kit is completely unnecessary for my R3T but running the current directly from the battery via relays does make sense to me and I want to eliminate the possibility of finding myself stranded on the side of the road.

Thanks in advance. You folks have been a great help.
 
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ZoneIII said:
I sometimes ride with the running (driving) lights on and I'm assuming that's probably drawing about as much current as having two headlights on with a Roadster.
Click to expand...
Driving Lights current on the R3T does not come through the key-switch - it already has its own OEM relay.

His low-cut option requires another switch and provides the ability to turn off the headlight (in low beam only) completely. You will require your own bar mounted switch to wire that in. You would only get this option if you want that capability to turn your headlight off

Again , you can install that dual kit relay from EB - which involves cutting/splicing your OEM harness - or you can DIY the single relay mod I described earlier, which can be done without compromising OEM wiring (and is fully restore-able if need-be)
 
@ZoneIII on my 08 R3T I use his single in fairing kit with the H4 connectors. Easy plug and play and since the relays are under the tank, not in headlight she'll lots of space for install
 


Thanks much! That's very helpful and I'm glad I asked. It's good to know the running lights are on a relay already. Also I don't want or need to turn off the headlight. So I don't think I'll bother with a modification. I may scan over the whole thread again, though, to see if the ignition problem was common with the R3T and, if it has been, I'll go with the modification you mentioned. Thanks again!
 

I had a similar problem early on with my roadster. Turns out one of the ignition wires got too hot being near the back of the headlights. Made the insulation brittle and ultimately fall off leaving the wire shortting against the headstock. Easy fix but an arse pain to diagnose.
 
Hi,,,Ive bodged this up as a get me started bodge,,but after having a real good look at the problem,,on mine anyways,,it seems the wiring loom is a little to short,where it comes from just under front of tank,,to ignition switch,,it come s over the headstock shoulders,which widen as they come down,,,so every time you turn hard right,it stretches the wires a little more,so they slide down a bit more,,then stretch,then next time slide down a little more,,until they just give up,and snap,,or pull out the pins on the connector or off switch itself,,I guess case by case its the same,so ,I,m having a longer harness made which i can route higher,,and clip up out of harms way,it seems incredible to me,,that on such a well made bike,,something as simple as this can cause so much misery??( mine has had a repair before,) But it looks like its pretty much cured,,Happy days
 
Thanks Steve,
I am new here and I am about to buy a 2020 used 1300 miles Rocket 3 GT, but I am starting to think I should not, as Inhave read SO MANY issues with the bike.
Any inputs?
Did you resolve your issues with triumph?
Is it worth it buying it?
Thanks
brazeagle
 
The issues are with the older model bikes. The 2020 seems to have very few built in problems. Just curious You are worried about Triumphs new Rocket but you bought a 2020 road glide ?
 
Yes you are correct, the R3 ignition burnout seems to be on the older models like mine which is a 2007 classic model, which I was forced to fix myself after my R3 broke down in the highlands of Scotland. Thanks to many on this great site I was able to learn how to fix the problem using an eager beaver H4 relay bypass, which you can buy from them. Don't worry about the new rockets having this ignition problem, they don't, because Triumph no longer send the headlight voltage via the ignition, which of course is not designed to handle such high power, it was inevitable that the ignition would heat up and burn out on the older R3 models. Triumph eventually admitted that there was indeed a fault problem with their ignitions, but they only said it was on the Roadster models, NOT SO! They eventually sent out to all their Triumph agencies a new bypass relay part, this to fix the problem, but only on the Roadster, not on the Classic model like mine. If you look on this thread you'll also see my miserable story of when my bike broke down, but eventually I did make it back home. All in all the new Rocket 3 is a fantastic bike and I can say that the ignition problem is no longer an issue on the new models. This site was my saviour in fixing my Rocket 3, the guys on here really know their stuff and I thank them all for their help... they know who they are.
 
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