Triumph Quit Ignoring Your Ignition Problems

I had forgotten all about this issue until I received an update to this thread. I haven't had this problem but I definitely want to avoid it. I have a 2015 R3T with about 17,.000 miles on it. Before I look into buying an Eastern Beaver kit, I have a couple questions: 1) Hopefully, at some point Triumph acknowedged this problem and rectified it. Does anyone know if the problem may have been fixed making the kit unnecessary for my 2015 R3T? 2) If I install the kit, does the ignition switch still behave the same? Specifically, will the headlight go out while starting? I assume it will but I just wanted to check this out with you folks.

While I'm posting this, I thought I'd mention this since it also involves installing a relay. I got rid of the ridiculous stock horn and replaced it with a set of P1AA horns (NOT air horns). But even though they didn't draw enough current to damage the horn switch, I still installed a relay so the horn current doesn't pass through the horn switch. WOW! Those things are loud! When I have had to use them, I scare the crap out of whoever I honk at and I can see them looking around as if they're searching for whoever honked at them and can't believe it came from a motorcycle. This, of course, is an issue of safety. I rarely honk at anyone and I'm a very patient driver/rider but it sure is good to have lound horns when a car starts to swerve in your lane. I have little doubt that they would be so lound if the current had to pass through the horn switch.
 
The R3T did not have as much of an issue since it only has 1 headlight not 2. Triumph did fix it on later models by installing a relay to take the excess current off the switch.
 
Ygransom said:
Triumph did fix it on later models by installing a relay to take the excess current off the switch
Click to expand...
That was only on the Roadster - Touring remained with same original scheme throughout the product run

But agree Touring failure much less prevalent due to single headlight (unless something crazy like 100W bulb installed!) As said earlier, if does failm more likely to be the connector than the switch itself (as per the Classic Models mode of failure)

You can apply this mod from earlier in the thread - Triumph Quit Ignoring Your Ignition Problems - that works for the Touring as well as the Classics and is the method used by Triumph on the later Roadster.
You should note that the key-switch switches power to either the Starter Solenoid OR the Headlights - the solenoid current is actually (slightly) higher than even Twin Headlight systems - about 10A although the surge current when button first pressed is even higher. Admittedly this is only of short duration compared to the continuous current of the headlight(s)
This mod will remove BOTH Headlight AND Starter Solenoid current from the Key-Switch
The EB Mod will only bypass the Headlight current


To answer your specific questions
1) It has not
2) Well the key-switch is not what deflects the current from headlight when starting, but yes the behaviour of headlight off during starter run will remain.
 
DEcosse said:
On Touring model it is normally the connector terminals (pin 1) that burns rather than switch itself; uncouple that connector & inspect both sides
Click to expand...
Thanks for checking in. I did make a good effort to carefully nudge wires around before proceeding, just to see if I could isolate a loose wire or connection. After seeing the switch was intact and proper with no deformities or scorches I cleaned the contacts and carefully reassembled. Inspecting both ends of the connectors had the same results, no cracking, melting, deformities, scorched pins, etc. Contact cleaner, di-electric grease, and securely connecting everything back up, seemed to do the trick. Something wasn't making good contact (pin 1 I suspect), but at which point wasn't glaringly obvious. I might have felt a little better if I had found the white wire needing to be re-soldered. So it seems fixed for now. Hopefully it won't return as an intermittent problem later.
 
Thank you very much! I really appreciate your help.
 
Good reading,,Ive just had exactly the same problem on my 15 plate Rocket,i knew it was something along these lines,,and it appears the white wire has given trouble before,and has been soldered,it now seems to be further u,,either in the switch,,or contacts in connectors,fast forward,,,,,Ive just ran a jumper wire which sorted the problem out,so i Think i,m just going to put a neat switch in,,out of harms way and hidden up,,to over come this problem,,Ive read it seems to have been re-occuring problem
 
Tim Forrest said:
Ive just had exactly the same problem on my 15 plate Rocket,
Click to expand...
If you have a Roadster, it absolutely is NOT the same problem - there is minimal* current through the switch on that model
If the switch has been damaged it would likely be due to physical strain on the harness
Even the connector is not a problem on that model, again due to minimal current through it

* couple of amps at worst - few relay coils and the ECU enable and park lights - that's it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

No Power When Ignition Turned to On
2
Replies
16
Views
269
kipper
ignition switch issue
3 4 5
Replies
42
Views
2K
Gordy
Starting/Ignition Switch Help
Replies
5
Views
426
IMBatmon68
Ignition gone.
Replies
8
Views
973
thomasbenjamin
Ignition... Fuel injection MAP HICCUP misfire???
2 3 4
Replies
32
Views
3K
Mongler07
Menu
Log in
Register