Stuck in first.

@subtle has a rocket with a similar problem i think. And All of oir bikes will not start in gear with the stand down regardles of if rhe clutch is engaged- unless this has been modified
From what I'm reading in the manual, there's no shortcuts to remedy this particular problem.
The motor and frame must be separated (along with everything else around it) in order to get to a point where the engine cases can be split, in order to replace a bolt that should never have come loose in the first place.
Could someone with experience in the removal and splitting of the engine and cases give me an idea of how long this should take an experienced tech to fix?
 
Being a 2010 model would be out of warranty but no harm in trying i guess as it has happened before to other bikes. I would contact the Triumph head office in your country rather then a dealer. But dont be suprised by a decline for warranty.
Do you have an extended warranty in place?
 
like mittzy says.
try putting kick stand up pull in clutch and start.
Maybe I wasn't clear in my description of the problem.
Imagine the toe part of the gear shifter as the hand of a clock at the 9 o'clock position. In normal operation it would rise to no more than the 10 o'clock position then return after engaging the next gear. Well at the moment it raises all the way to the 12 o'clock position with no resistance nor engaging of of the shifting mechanism.
Leads me to think the bolt holding it all together has come out.
 
Maybe I wasn't clear in my description of the problem.
Imagine the toe part of the gear shifter as the hand of a clock at the 9 o'clock position. In normal operation it would rise to no more than the 10 o'clock position then return after engaging the next gear. Well at the moment it raises all the way to the 12 o'clock position with no resistance nor engaging of of the shifting mechanism.
Leads me to think the bolt holding it all together has come out.
what @Mittzy was referring to is the No Start problem you mentioned and as he and others said the bike Will Not Start if the the bike is in gear and side stand down So sit on bike lift Side Stand and then try starting it, as you mentioned it is stuck in first so by following the what I just suggested you can eliminate the worry in your mind of it not starting
 
To take the engine out, you put the bike on an ATV stand (or blocks) to support the engine, then lift the bike off the engine. This can be done by one person by fixing a block & tackle (with brake) or some other sort of wenching system to the front (handlebars work) and another one to the rear. By carefully raising the back, and then the front, you lift the frame off the engine.
 
To take the engine out, you put the bike on an ATV stand (or blocks) to support the engine, then lift the bike off the engine. This can be done by one person by fixing a block & tackle (with brake) or some other sort of wenching system to the front (handlebars work) and another one to the rear. By carefully raising the back, and then the front, you lift the frame off the engine.

Yes & be careful not to break sender at the rear of the cylinderhead. :x3:
 
From what I'm reading in the manual, there's no shortcuts to remedy this particular problem.
The motor and frame must be separated (along with everything else around it) in order to get to a point where the engine cases can be split, in order to replace a bolt that should never have come loose in the first place.
Could someone with experience in the removal and splitting of the engine and cases give me an idea of how long this should take an experienced tech to fix?
A good buddy and me spent probably 3 14 hour days pulling my engine, splitting it and rebuilding it. I would say it would take an experienced shop 3-5 working days to do it.
 
If you have the tools, time and guts to do it, I'd say pull that sucker yourself. Once you split it, it'll be very easy to find the problem.
 
A good buddy and me spent probably 3 14 hour days pulling my engine, splitting it and rebuilding it. I would say it would take an experienced shop 3-5 working days to do it.


Sad to say it, shanefish, but it does sound like you'll have to remove the engine and crack the cases, most likely to replace an improperly affixed nut. Warp 9.9 will probably suggest looking over the selector forks and some other bits while you're in there and maybe even doing some mods that will upgrade the motor's reliability going forward.

A well-experienced shop or very competent mechanics(s) familiar with that turf can generally do the repair in 15-16 hours or less.

What a frikkin' bummer!:(
 
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