Just my opinion but, if I was getting a wobble of any kind on a rocket below 110 mph then I would start looking at all the variables that affect the geometry first before adding a device to cover up the problem. These bikes are heavy enough and the geometry is correct that they should be tracking past 100mph easily with good stability.

The reason dampers are used and necessary on super sport ****** rockets is the bikes are light and their geometry is designed for very quick response left and right. They may come from the factory ready to fly on a closed circuit track, but out on the street where they encounter all kinds of irregularities in road surface they are not that stable at high speeds.

I would agree based on my personal experience. I have a 2014 Roadster and I cruise all day at 85 to 95 and blast past rows of semis on New Mexico highways at 110+.

The bike usually has the full windshield, bags and crash bars on.

We also get brutal wind in this part of the world in the spring.

I have never had a problem with steering wobble
 
So while I’m waiting on exhaust and needed a little nip up on my steering bearing, I took some measurements:

Stem to closer clamp offset 5mm
Bottom of clamp dimensions: 62Lx34Wx31D
B8B26680-ADB0-4834-8FAA-C92773A47225.jpeg
5A433351-C9C6-4067-8599-A0B5F73DE394.jpeg


Now I can get to proper design work. Photos don’t look centered but they are.
 
Waiting on a reply from Scott. I need the dimensions, width and mounting point spacing for the damper. The top piece I'll work on tomorrow, but, it'll be skeletonized and have mounting points for the gauges.

Overall lift of the bars is 36mm up, so about 1.5" inches. There is 41.3mm clearance between the mounting tabs and the bottom of the bar cut out, Scott calls for 40mm of space vertically.

Bottom side has an M10 hole to fit the stock stud, and the top will be M8, to fit the stock bolts.

The key dimension that may cause problems is going to be width of the damper.... anyone happen to have it?

Bottom Piece.png
 
What is wrong with the original, Rob?.

Nothing in particular, it could be used, but I'd rather having matching sexy billet pieces than mismatched. Materials cost should be minimal for these in 6061, its the machine time that's going to cost. I may end up adding a cover to hide the gauge bracket to the top piece.

Also, the stock pieces are not light.

Looking at them together, I have a strong feeling the Scotts' going to be too wide to fit like this.

Both.png
 
Do not pass "go" do not collect $200.

Worth noting that anybody with an already relaxed riding position will almost certainly require new cables. Just saying!.
 
Do not pass "go" do not collect $200.

Worth noting that anybody with an already relaxed riding position will almost certainly require new cables. Just saying!.

Very possibly, some you can re-route, but the brake line will be the limiting factor.
 
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