hey guys this is the first major problem I've had with the bike. I've had couple warranty things and a recall but never left me stuck. I have a 2008 triumph rocket 3 classic I bought new in 2009 I have over 11k miles on it. I'm on my 3rd battery the current battery is almost 2 years old. like the other battery they test good but lower CCA. I drove the bike yesterday just fine today I drive it ten min down the road to the store and I try to start the bike and just a click. I try couple time then the light go out after the click. the battery test 12.49volts I get my father that drives the battery van for AAA test good low CCA we try jump starting and just a click. we then jump the starter and it fires up but won't stay running with out the jump pack on battery and my check lets going off. just paid the bike off and the closest dealer is not doing triumphs anymore. out of warranty and I'm thinking battery as the last battery did something like it. it just quit and put new battery in it and been fine. this is something new with the lights and the click. your thought guys its thanksgiving tomorrow so not doing much with it. charging the battery and testing and will buy new one but never had this issue its been the best bike I ever had.
starting problems
- Thread starter knbaudio
- Start date
TriumPhil
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Sometimes a loose battery cable will cause the ECU to lock out. Disconnect and then reconnect both the pos and neg battery leads (which will reset the ECU) and then try starting or jumping her!
Claviger
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3 Batteries in 5 years is one too many imho.
I would test your Rectifier and Stator outputs, there is a walk through on how to do this somewhere floating on the forums here. If they check out good, fine, replace the battery and ride on.
If you just replace the battery without checking, and one of the other components is bad, you will just have the same issue again in the near future.
I would test your Rectifier and Stator outputs, there is a walk through on how to do this somewhere floating on the forums here. If they check out good, fine, replace the battery and ride on.
If you just replace the battery without checking, and one of the other components is bad, you will just have the same issue again in the near future.
well have battery out charging dealer says the bike fine with the first 2 battery the last one a changed. I have the bike hooked up to jumper cables and it turns on it sweeps the gauges. go to hit starter and a click like it has a hard time turning over the motor or starter. I put it in gear and move back and forth and if I try still same thing. it's odd and drove fine yesterday and this morning turn off and now this
Out of curiosity, do you have the Eastern Beaver on it? If not, then it could well be the ignition switch wiring. It is also worth checking the starter button contacts, as well as the clutch and kickstand safety switches. The contacts can get dirty and corrode. They are easy to take apart and clean, but be very careful not to lose the little springs and stuff as they try to exit their cramped quarters with expeditious velocity.
Also check for loose and dirty wiring on the heavy duty cables - both at the battery ends and the starter motor ends.
Some folks use an additional, or a heavier duty ground cable to help starting. There is also a relay mod that adds an extra relay to get power directly from the battery to the starter, rather than through the ignition switch wiring.
Also check for loose and dirty wiring on the heavy duty cables - both at the battery ends and the starter motor ends.
Some folks use an additional, or a heavier duty ground cable to help starting. There is also a relay mod that adds an extra relay to get power directly from the battery to the starter, rather than through the ignition switch wiring.
no I haven't tried any of that. it's been great normal shop trips and turn the key and drive anytime. never left me hanging until today one week after she paid off! it has the race pipes cat bypass and the map changed for over a year now. that all that been done sense new other than regular maintenance.
kipper
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If the battery is fully charged the 1st thing I'd look at would be the clutch switch at the lever as iDK suggested, then I'd check the main fuse 30 amp. Easy to check and could give the fault you're describin. 
Mittzy
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I woild check the ignition switch. Try starting (as you would normally-hold the button down) together with moving the handlebars from left to right, this moves the wires in and around the front, if tou have a bad connection or ignition switch thus might help identify it
ok i'll do that I checked all fuses when it happened and all good I had the battery on charge all night and half the day today and it was full chager but only 75CCA when it should be 310CCA put load on it and failed then let sit for 30 mins and it fell to 20CCA at 11.67 volts. so another bad battery but got 2 years out of this one. I have to wait for a new battery as it has to be ordered. then i'll start checking everything else one by one.
