Starting/Ignition Switch Help

Just picked up a 2007 Rocket iii and love it. The PO put a ram air kit, after market exhaust and a tuner so she really goes. However, am having some on an off issues with the ignition switch clicking vs. turning the starter. Have done some of the common research but have a unique situation so wanted to ask for help. The bike has two aux lights on the front with a dedicates switch on the right side of the handle bars. Sometimes, the lights don't come on and I actually thought the bulbs were dead. But last week I powered up the bike and both lights came on but the I had to hit the ignition switch a couple times (many times) before she would turn over. I have not traced any of the wires yet because we were dealing with a hurricane but wanted to get any places I should start looking. Also, I did replace the starter relay and no changes.

Thanks in advance for the help. The bike has over 50K miles on it and rides like a dream but want to get this starter situation worked out. Can send any pics if needed.

First off, I'm a bit confused when you state you have aux lighting on a separate switch, then state the lights don't come on? Are you talking about the aux lights, main headlights or both. I have my aux lights tied into my high beam circuit so they come on when the key is on and in high beam mode only. With the headlights/aux lights coming on with the key switch, there is a large draw on the battery. Pressing the start button should shut off the lights until the engine starts. So the lights are tied into the starter relay. A good check when you press the start button is to note if the lights go out. This indicates that the start button contacts are good and the relay is switching. It doesn't tell you if the relay starter contacts are good though. Another issue with intermittant starter activation is the starter solenoid mounted on the starter itself. The contacts sometimes become pitted. Usually pulling the starter, removing the solenoid cover and cleaning the contacts corrects this. Replacement contacts can be purchased also. Read on.....

The main issue with the pre Roadster models like yours not starting is that too much headlight current flows through the ignition switch and usually melts the white wire solder joint on the switch or worse, melts the contacts in the switch. This is what is probably happening to your bike. Did the previous owner ever repair/replace the switch? There are several headlight wiring upgrades that can be made to fix the recurring problem on the early R111 models. You can purchase an Eastern Beaver wiring kit which is pretty well plug and play or make your own as outlined in the old thread Home Made EB headlight relay harness. If the switch is original and you replace it, things will work for a while but... Hope this helps.

Gregger,

Thanks for responding. Yes I am talking about the aux lights. When I first got the bike only one light worked, then neither worked then the other day both worked so I am not sure what is going on there. Everything else electrical works fine, dash, normal lights, etc, but just sometimes the bike just clicks when I hit the starter switch. The PO did say it had been sitting awhile (indoors) when he refreshed it and had to put in a new fuel pump. Also the bike does have the key relocation to the left side of the bike so that has been done. I may switch out the battery and see if that makes a difference but so far my testing has indicated that has no impact.

I will also look at the starter solenoid contacts and see what kind of condition they are in. I have a feeling since it had been sitting that maybe just a few things need to be cleaned so wanted to get an idea on the best place to start.

This fixed mine.
STARTER RELAY FIX

Rocket starter relay is design flaw. Starter relay should have power source straight from battery, not through poorly wiring harnes, ignition lock, fusebox on lots of too thin wire. So we need to install extra relay to solve problem causing starter only click but engine not cranking.
Starter relay is located under right side cover and is first rfom rear., Other relyi is for turning signals.
Take of relay, insert some thin pin to release lock and remove BLACK cable. Its the one thatr goes to starter motor.
Do some wiring like in pick to new basic 30A 4-pin relay. pin 30 through 20A fuse to battery, Connect 87 to black wire you just detached from original relay, 85 to ground and connect 86 to original relays pin where black cable used to be.
No need to change cables, install second battery, buy lithium batteries or any other expensive things.

What turns on the aux lights? Are they on a separate switch? If so and because you've stated sometimes one, none, or both turn on, you might have a corroded/loose connection at the light connectors or grounds... ( not sure how the aux lights are wired in). I don't think this would cause the starting issue though.

As to the intermittant clicking on start up, getting more power to the starter solenoid like Rocket Scientist stated is a plus. This allows the voltage to remain higher at the solenoid which generates a greater magnetic force on the plunger. Once the plunger pushed the bendix into the ringgear on the flywheel, the copper contact disc completes the circuit to spin the motor. If those contacts are dirty, intermittant start issues crop up.

Well after all of that it runs out the battery was just too weak to properly turn the bike. Was only pushing 11.3 volts when fully charged and I see it really likes over 13. Put in a newer battery fully charged and she is starting right up. Ordered a new battery as well and will just have to keep her on the tender. I know these bikes are power hogs so just going to have to keep an eye on that. Glad I did not have to tear the starter down. Now to find a way to mitigate all of this heat on my right leg, but one thing at a time.