starter

[Claviger]

I just tore my starter off, figured it's quick, might as well clean the contacts internally as preventative. Wiped clean, sanded until polished smooth with 2000grit. You can definitely get to the contacts without removing the starter, but it sure is a whole lot easier to clean inside there with it OFF the bike.

Also, remember step 1: Unbolt battery positive lead

12mm for bolts to engine. 13mm for cable nuts, 7mm for solenoid back cover, you don't need to remove the two over-tightened #1 Phillips screws.

 

[Gregger]

Well now it makes ssense, Lithium Battery! Don't waste your time with Solenoid disassembly, it won't fix the root cause in your case.

When you hit the button the first time and get a click, the draw is warming the battery internally. Lithiums make MORE CCA the second or third time you draw on them in this manner, when it's around 35-40 degrees out you'll need to hit the starter more like 5-6 yes to get it to warm internally enough to give you full CCA and start.

I had 3 different brand Lithiums in my Daytona across 7 years, every single one behaved like this. Swapped back to an AGM last year and starts first press every press now.

This is primary reason LiFEPO4 and LiPO are not yet suitable for mainstream use, with one exception...Antigravity brand are ass kicking chicken. I have their XP-3 jump box and it starts anything first try effortlessly.

Sure wish we knew this when you originally posted. As Clav stated, you get more ommph once the battery gets warmed up.....

 

[TXtriple]

You can test the lithium battery theory by turning on the ignition for 10 seconds or so and let the headlight draw warm up the battery. Then see if it cranks over on the first try.

 

[TURBO200R4]

You can test the lithium battery theory by turning on the ignition for 10 seconds or so and let the headlight draw warm up the battery. Then see if it cranks over on the first try.

i thought about that but figured he might not think that very funny when it don't start

 

[vindex1963]

Well now it makes ssense, Lithium Battery! Don't waste your time with Solenoid disassembly, it won't fix the root cause in your case.

When you hit the button the first time and get a click, the draw is warming the battery internally. Lithiums make MORE CCA the second or third time you draw on them in this manner, when it's around 35-40 degrees out you'll need to hit the starter more like 5-6 yes to get it to warm internally enough to give you full CCA and start.

I had 3 different brand Lithiums in my Daytona across 7 years, every single one behaved like this. Swapped back to an AGM last year and starts first press every press now.

This is primary reason LiFEPO4 and LiPO are not yet suitable for mainstream use, with one exception...Antigravity brand are ass kicking chicken. I have their XP-3 jump box and it starts anything first try effortlessly.

The original owner installed the battery four years ago, hopefully my new Yuasa 310 cca battery will solve my troubles.

Sure wish we knew this when you originally posted. As Clav stated, you get more ommph once the battery gets warmed up.....

I had no idea it even mattered, now I do.

You can test the lithium battery theory by turning on the ignition for 10 seconds or so and let the headlight draw warm up the battery. Then see if it cranks over on the first try.

I'll do that in the morning, I did change the headlights to LED so maybe I'll give it 30 seconds.

i thought about that but figured he might not think that very funny when it don't start

F'ing thing better start!!!!

 

[vindex1963]

I want to THANK EVERYONE that threw their opinion out there, lots of great information in this thread. I hope someone, someday will read this and it will solve the problems they're having!!!

The plan is replace the battery, add a heavy gauge wire along with the negative cable and disassemble the solenoid and clean it up. I'm also adding star washers to all the connections.

 

[Bigjaype]

I just tore my starter off, figured it's quick, might as well clean the contacts internally as preventative. Wiped clean, sanded until polished smooth with 2000grit. You can definitely get to the contacts without removing the starter, but it sure is a whole lot easier to clean inside there with it OFF the bike.

Also, remember step 1: Unbolt battery positive lead

12mm for bolts to engine. 13mm for cable nuts, 7mm for solenoid back cover, you don't need to remove the two over-tightened #1 Phillips screws.

Technically, you should disconnect the negative off the battery first...that way if you accidentally ground the spanner when loosening the positive, no sparky, sparky!

 

[Grumpy Ole Codger]

Technically, you should disconnect the negative off the battery first...that way if you accidentally ground the spanner when loosening the positive, no sparky, sparky!

A battery is a permanently 'live' item and cannot be switched off! Any person working on batteries should be using insulated tools as a minimum. This is to prevent any grounding of the tool being used. If you haven't seen the effects of an uninsulated spanner/socket/screwdriver grounding whilst removing a motorcycle/car battery, browse youtube. It can be quite spectacular to watch, especially when it happens to some other fool!

 

[vindex1963]

I was rinsing on my victory and somehow got my wedding ring between the wrench on the hot side of the battery in the frame. The ring instantly turned red, hurt like a *****. That won't happen again.

 

[TURBO200R4]

i had a ring short out while jumping a car in the rain started shaking my hand to get it cooled down the ring went flying down the road. it was gone
another i slipped on a flat bed with rails and instead off falling off the truck i grabbed the rail and the only thing that caught was my ring.
no longer wear rings while working.
once and a while wedding ring on weekends