Starter Click, Rocking to move the crank works.

I did that too. It worked for awhile. The bypass relay I believe is the permanent fix. Mine hasn't clicked once since I did that, and that was all I did.
Prior to that (going back a couple of years) I put on the big battery cables, put a rebuild kit in the solenoid, put star washers on all the connections. Everything helped to a point. The fellow who wrote the procedure for the bypass, says that the bypass is all you need.
I think all these suggestions are worth the effort. Problems always happen at the worst time or locations.
 
Here is how you would do it on a touring. You need a 5 pin 12vdc 30/40 amp relay. By them on Amazon or at any auto parts store.
Swell for our touring friend here h/e I have the 07 r3 classic where do I go? I have had this problem for tooooo long have a 1.4kw starter and am starting to wonder if I should take it back. I previously took starter to a local AIS rebuild shop and have been told starter is fine. Camilla hasn't gotten near the miles she should have & I'm dying to rack them up before turning her over to the next Rocket Master. Rocking the bike does work for me also but @ 69yrs I'm tired of it & am worried that someday it isn't going to work and don't want to call the tow truck buddy to move her again. Nothing against my friend.
 
5PRONG RELAY.jpeg
 
That is looking at the relay terminals
if looking at the connector terminals then you reverse 85 and 86
 
turn ignition on (how's your lights?)
turn ignition on put a hot battery wire to number 9 fuse and try to start this should make it work good for checking purposes.
report progress.
connector number and relay terminal
#8****#87 black to starter solenoid
#1****#30 blue/yellow to fuse number 9
#6*****? white/red from starter button
#4*****? yellow/brown to ecu
#5****87A blue to lights
hth heman
 
Hi gang,

I hope everyone is well. Starting last year on my 2011 R3T with 17,000 miles. I hit the starter just to hear it click with no crank movement, I rock the bike in a high gear to move the crank / pistons etc. and the bike will turn over and start right up. I did several searches but with so many variations of this symptom I don't have a clear picture of potential issues.

I have done the following:
  • New topped off battery.
  • Batter pack.
  • Jumper cables.
I have been told the following:
  • Compression valve?
  • Battery is junk.
  • Starter is junk.
  • Owner is junk.
Any thoughts? Is this some kind of top dead center compression thing?

Thank you,
Paul.
My Triumph Service Manual has not yet arrives so this will be a generic go-by;

A Mechanic's trouble shooting flow, first steps should be;

1) Battery Load Test then;

2) Starting Circuit Amperage Draw Test, (during this test its useful to use a handheld IR Thermometer to find "High Electrical Heat" Components that will show possible excessive amperage draw then;

3) Bench Test/Inspection Starter, (again looking for bad armature, windings, brushes etc. (Use Multimeter to check continuity and for faults/shorts).

4) Check EFI and Ignition Modules for high or no amperage = failed unit.
 
So... I finally got off my lazy *** and got this done just now. Wow, what a difference, you can hear how much harder the solenoid is engaging with power direct from the battery.

The bike has never fired up so fast like it does now, I must have started it seven time now just to listen to the starter. I even made the wife listen to it, but of course she was like... "I don't hear anything".

Thank you for all the help, everyone. You guys rock!!
 
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