Stalling

maurice said:
Ha! Just dropped it off. Should get it back today. They wanted to charge me 85.50 labor for warranty clutch switch cause I did not have THEM diagnose problem showing error code p0704. Said if I leave bike THEY will diagnose showing same error code and no charge. 😖
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if it is under warranty then (dealer) u keep your mouth shut or say thank you.
on the other hand sometimes customers bring me the code and think i won't charge them for scanner use and then i have to explain that i will be using scanner (a good scanner) to bring up codes that there little scanner cannot. also looking at info while driving which freaks them out and most of the time they stay at the office:roll::roll:
 
Got bike back with new tire, no clutch switch part! They said the error code only POINTS you in the right direction. I needed the clutch switch holder, actuator. On back order. Once installed told it may solve stall, so I have to ride it to see. If it does not, bring back and give them case # Triumph gave me. I don't think it will.. This is one treadmill!
 
maurice said:
Got bike back with new tire, no clutch switch part! They said the error code only POINTS you in the right direction. I needed the clutch switch holder, actuator. On back order. Once installed told it may solve stall, so I have to ride it to see. If it does not, bring back and give them case # Triumph gave me. I don't think it will.. This is one treadmill!
Click to expand...

They said the error code only POINTS you in the right direction.
this is very true it leads u to the fact that u have trouble with the clutch switch circuit (duh)

what we need is for someone to post a pic of the clutch switch and a pic of clutch switch holder if there is one? and how much it is? cost?
i think if i can see pics i think it would not b that hard to check. the dealers like to portray that they r the only ones that know anything even if they don't know anything
 
TURBO200R4 said:
They said the error code only POINTS you in the right direction.
this is very true it leads u to the fact that u have trouble with the clutch switch circuit (duh)

what we need is for someone to post a pic of the clutch switch and a pic of clutch switch holder if there is one? and how much it is? cost?
i think if i can see pics i think it would not b that hard to check. the dealers like to portray that they r the only ones that know anything even if they don't know anything
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The part he described is the one I showed you Herman. No pic needed. Gonna be replaced,warranty.
 
Van_R3Rider said:
Does anyone know what the clutch switch does?it might help explain why the bike stalls sporadically only on clutch in.
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THE clutch switch is one of the safety switches that sends a signal to the ecu. the ecu gets signals from neutral, kickstand, clutch switch then grounds the starter relay to send voltage to starter solenoid.
it does not make the motor die. its only when the switch is shorted (allways closed) that it will cause problems if ecu thinks that the clutch is always pulled in it adopts the neutral map (in the older r3)and runs on that. now the neutral map is not very good to drive in 1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th.
So the the bike stalls with the clutch in. how many people stop with out pulling the clutch in?
i am going to guess the early r3 did not have the stalling prob just a few new ones like the later ones just a few stalls
what i was thinking that Maurice's had the clutch switch code shorted switch so the ecu put the the ecu in a sort of limp in mode. the limp in modes are not always the idea running conditions and a lot of times creates more problems that the problem its self.
hth
 
I think the clutch switch also controls engine RPM at take-off. If you ease out the clutch (from a dead start) without adding throttle, the engine RPM increases slightly allowing you to move forward slowly without stalling.
 
leatal said:
I think the clutch switch also controls engine RPM at take-off. If you ease out the clutch (from a dead start) without adding throttle, the engine RPM increases slightly allowing you to move forward slowly without stalling.
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we have a difference of opinion
i think when u ease out the clutch thats going to lower the idle and then the ecu is going to raise the idle back up to normal
i know we r splitting hairs.
 
TURBO200R4 said:
THE clutch switch is one of the safety switches that sends a signal to the ecu. the ecu gets signals from neutral, kickstand, clutch switch then grounds the starter relay to send voltage to starter solenoid.
it does not make the motor die. its only when the switch is shorted (allways closed) that it will cause problems if ecu thinks that the clutch is always pulled in it adopts the neutral map (in the older r3)and runs on that. now the neutral map is not very good to drive in 1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th.
So the the bike stalls with the clutch in. how many people stop with out pulling the clutch in?
i am going to guess the early r3 did not have the stalling prob just a few new ones like the later ones just a few stalls
what i was thinking that Maurice's had the clutch switch code shorted switch so the ecu put the the ecu in a sort of limp in mode. the limp in modes are not always the idea running conditions and a lot of times creates more problems that the problem its self.
hth
Click to expand...
Thanks for the detailed write up. Someone in a fb suggested doing a 12 minute tune to fix the stalling issue. If anyone is still riding the bike, can you try that?
 

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