Speedometer and Tach Die at the same time.....Thanks Lucas.....

[warp9.9]

Thanks for all the replies guys. Tried the suggestions offered before I posted. All fuses verified, the harness has been tested. Dielectric grease on all the plugs. No corrosion noted during inspection. It all points to my gauges being fried. My fathers gauges lit up immediately and correctly when I plugged my plugs into the back of his gauges while on my bike. I have tried to plug my gauges in one at a time to try and confirm if one is shorted or something and causing the other not to work. Any way I go, my gauges are dead except for the bezel light on the tach. this is all that will work on my gauges, though my father's gauges worked perfectly when plugged in. I can't get past the unliklihood of both failing at the same time unless a jolt was sent to both at the same time.

Looks like I need repair of my gauges, find a pair of used ones or go Dakota Digital. Any ideas out there on repair?

Just out of curiosity and because I might not have caught it in the post above did yoy plug yours into your dads bike to see if they worked? Your right it does seem weird that both would fry at the same time. I am just curious as your dad seems helpfull so maybe you could try yours in his bike. It could be the femal or side of the plug running to your gauges is giving you grief.

 

[one-auburn-fan]

I did plug my gauges into my dad's bike. I did not plug his harness directly into my gauges. I had my gauges connected to my harness and plugged in to his R3S under the tank. My gauges behaved the same as they had been.....dead.

 

[one-auburn-fan]

Have you asked a dealer? Some of them are good guys

I stopped in to a dealer yesterday. They were indeed helpful as they could be for a drive by type deal. They interfaced my R3S with their laptop and Triumph software. Indeed, 2 codes were set. Both involving gauges. I wish I could remember the numbers. We simply cleared them in an attempt to heal the gauges. The codes cleared. Made no improvement. Codes would not show up again in the shop either. It must take a drive cycle or something to set the code again.

 

[warp9.9]

I did plug my gauges into my dad's bike. I did not plug his harness directly into my gauges. I had my gauges connected to my harness and plugged in to his R3S under the tank. My gauges behaved the same as they had been.....dead.

So then what your saying is it can still be a harness problem and not the gauges ?

 

[atomsplitter]

There shyould be a single screw at the back of the gauges. Remove those and the instruments can be pulled out. The harness plugs can then be pulled off the back of both instruments. Check you have continuity on each pin with the corresponding pin that plugs into the frame harness. My guess is you have a bad wire. You can download a manual from Bishop's signature (it's free). Check page 18.3 for the standard to disassemble the gauges. The odds of frying both gauges is very low, the odds of a single bad wire in the loom are better. It will also tell you if there is a short, (doubtful since the fuses are still intact).

 

[warp9.9]

There shyould be a single screw at the back of the gauges. Remove those and the instruments can be pulled out. The harness plugs can then be pulled off the back of both instruments. Check you have continuity on each pin with the corresponding pin that plugs into the frame harness. My guess is you have a bad wire. You can download a manual from Bishop's signature (it's free). Check page 18.3 for the standard to disassemble the gauges. The odds of frying both gauges is very low, the odds of a single bad wire in the loom are better. It will also tell you if there is a short, (doubtful since the fuses are still intact).

Exactly what I have been trying to say Atom I think its a wire falt from flexing. Copper work hardens much like when your bending a coat hanger after a bunch of times it cracks and seperates. You just have better words to describe what needs to be done then I do. I definetly am not a electrician. He could just be losing main power. Of course the testing with the soft where is always a good thing to have as Ian pointed out. Even if we could not do mapping changes it is one hell of a diagnostic tool.

 

[atomsplitter]

Exactly what I have been trying to say Atom I think its a wire falt from flexing. Copper work hardens much like when your bending a coat hanger after a bunch of times it cracks and seperates. You just have better words to describe what needs to be done then I do. I definetly am not a electrician. He could just be losing main power. Of course the testing with the soft where is always a good thing to have as Ian pointed out. Even if we could not do mapping changes it is one hell of a diagnostic tool.

Thanks I'm not an electrician either, but I know how to read electrical schematics (benefits of operating a nuclear power plant). The common factor between the gauges is ground (they both use the same ground point). That's why I think the problem is a single wire (power or ground). Neither gauge gets input from the same source (RPM comes from the cam, speed from the transmission I believe). You can check the Yellow/Black wire going into the Speedo when you power up, that should be your gauge sweep power. Then check the black wire (ground). If the power is there and not going to ground it won't work.

 

[warp9.9]

I would guess rpm comes from the crank sensor as it is the only sensor that can monitor true crank speed. The speed sensor on the tranny is mounted on the final helical gear. unless there is a bunch of mathemetics in the ecu to transpose from the different gearing in the tranny which would be a lot of math. I would think its much easier to monitor the spark sensor from the crank since it is a wasted spark signal. But I could be wrong. I will have to look at the extra rear drum I have that the alternator goes in to see how many sensor points are on it. If I were him I would follow your advice and do a full continuity test on every wire from the back of the gauges to the plug. WWith the wires disconnected from the gauges so you can flex then around and see if there is any intermediate break point in them. I have to aggree with you it just sounds like a wire problem to me.

 

[one-auburn-fan]

There shyould be a single screw at the back of the gauges. Remove those and the instruments can be pulled out. The harness plugs can then be pulled off the back of both instruments. Check you have continuity on each pin with the corresponding pin that plugs into the frame harness. My guess is you have a bad wire. You can download a manual from Bishop's signature (it's free). Check page 18.3 for the standard to disassemble the gauges. The odds of frying both gauges is very low, the odds of a single bad wire in the loom are better. It will also tell you if there is a short, (doubtful since the fuses are still intact).

I have had the gauges out and also my father's gauges from his R3. I plugged my harness into the back of his gauges and his gauges worked properly. For this reason, I felt that my wire harnness was off the table as far as being faulty. The only thing that I did not do is take my gauges to his bike and his harness and plug that directly into the back of my gauges.

 

[atomsplitter]

I have had the gauges out and also my father's gauges from his R3. I plugged my harness into the back of his gauges and his gauges worked properly. For this reason, I felt that my wire harnness was off the table as far as being faulty. The only thing that I did not do is take my gauges to his bike and his harness and plug that directly into the back of my gauges.

Plug your gauges into his harness and see what you get........

I would surmise the wires were not in the same orientation as they are in your buckets, so contact could be intermittent. If the gauges are dead on a known good harness you have your answer.