Something Failed, let’s find it! Transmission Analysis.

I disagree that the clip should fit snug i have been working on auto trans since 1966 and have never seen a circlip fit tight in the grove. it should go in w/o drag and clamp tight at the bottom of the grove.
example if it went in tight when it was hammered it would tend to open up and stay that way until it moved out of position.
when i check one i will put a little pressure to open the clip and make sure that it turns free in the grove.
of coarse a little bigger and stronger clip would be a plus that way they can straighten the grove.
I disagree that the clip should fit snug i have been working on auto trans since 1966 and have never seen a circlip fit tight in the grove. it should go in w/o drag and clamp tight at the bottom of the grove.
example if it went in tight when it was hammered it would tend to open up and stay that way until it moved out of position.
when i check one i will put a little pressure to open the clip and make sure that it turns free in the grove.
of coarse a little bigger and stronger clip would be a plus that way they can straighten the grove.
Maybe i overstated the snug part....i didnt mean you have to beat it in place!
 
They all fit as you describe turbo, snapping in when aligned right and can be rotated around the groove with some force/resistance except 3rd gear. Clearly because it's all sorts of deformed/stretched.

It's snug, if it's not aligned right with the groove it wont slide in, kind of a "just right" fit without interference. Really, I think third's circlip popped out from just being beaten to death.

I wish I knew if the output shaft had been replaced in 2015 and then at Carpenter's in 2017. Alas, I don't know if this is the same as original shaft or not, meaning, I don't really know the service history of this shaft in particular.


When you got your bill from them was there not a parts list breakdown on the final invoice?
 
I agree with @Speedy with the air stuff he said, I'm not a scientist. @Claviger , you have spent so much money on this bike, maybe a new set of primary drive gears will be within the budget? Spin the box a bit quicker to take some load off it. Or don't use use the torque all of the time.
Yep, for me , I only use the full torque in 4 th and 5th, on the German 'Autobahn' when some Audi thinks he's the man...
 
Something I thought of when mine was apart. If I had a hi HP engine like yours, I would have the sides of 3rd & 4th that face each other, shaved enough to allow room for an additional circlip to be added in between them. And have Robinson's cut another groove.
 
Due to the nature of my job I fit quick shifters often. If they are set up well, the box normally lasts better on a track bike than it does with some heavy footed dude bashing the gears through. Rob, I believe your set up time on the shifter with it set at 120ms may have begun some of the damage. Not sure that I go along with the description of the QS workings. When you apply pressure to the stick, the switch should cut ignition to unload the trans BEFORE any load is imparted to the shift fork. Having said all of that, it is just a gearbox and like all motorbikes which are modified for double the intended output, the box NEEDS to be shimmed correctly for the best results. I have not done all that many Rocket boxes, but every one I have had apart has been loose and poorly set up. I've spent quite some time actually riding a Rocket with QS and it was nice to ride, better than stock even with the "only" 230 hp engine.
 
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just for taught about these clips
if u had a cap system that went over the clip to keep it from opening up when it is hammered. like for example like the old ford starters. might work
or if u used a clip w/o the holes then cut a recess in the part that hits it then it would not be able to spread the clip when engaged.
 
When you apply pressure to the stick, the switch should cut ignition to unload the trans BEFORE any load is imparted to the shift fork.

I would hope that's correct.

I've spent quite some time actually riding a Rocket with QS and it was nice to ride, better than stock even with the "only" 230 hp engine.

I completely agree, its smoother going through gears with the QS than without it.

Having said all of that, it is just a gearbox and like all motorbikes which are modified for double the intended output, the box NEEDS to be shimmed correctly for the best results. I have not done all that many Rocket boxes, but every one I have had apart has been loose and poorly set up.

Right back to my original theory that things were not lined up correctly. I won't bother measuring and shimming anything until I have the fully rebuilt trans back in hand, as I'm sure tolerances will change while it's away.

I appreciate your input and wonder, if the fork wear I've found is considered "normal", if it essentially "clearanced" itself and had stop wearing or if it was getting worse over time.

It was shifting beautifully before this, smooth, easy, and better than the bike had been when it was new.
 
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