somebody help me p l e a s e

I know I don't post much but I do have alot of experience setting bearings especially opposing taper rollers. I haven't read the rest of the posts so I may be repeating someone else's post..........so here it goes.

Make sure you find out what the end play is supposed to be when assembled. Too loose and your bearings will fail prematurely, too tight and they WILL seize. The stock spacer may no longer be the correct thickness for the new bearings.

Eric
 
Good thinking Triumphman, but those specs will be hard to get, Triumph doesn't give you anything on these, they say do not disassemble. I do have a man good at setting preload on rearends and he thinks he can get it preload pretty close. I'm gonna give it a shot, if it works, it's better than replacing the whole thing for a bearing


If you have suggestions please feel free, I am open to them,
 
Good thinking Triumphman, but those specs will be hard to get, Triumph doesn't give you anything on these, they say do not disassemble. I do have a man good at setting preload on rearends and he thinks he can get it preload pretty close. I'm gonna give it a shot, if it works, it's better than replacing the whole thing for a bearing


If you have suggestions please feel free, I am open to them,

I have a vague recollection someone on here said the Drive Unit was from another Bike.. sorry not sure maybe Yamaha. I was wondering if you could get the pre load specs by going that way.. it seems that the crush spacer and torque setting may set the bearing pre loads..

Just an idea .. good luck with it.
 
just got my sump pan gasket delivered to my door in 5 days from Fredericktown Yamaha, Frederick Md, waiting on my front cover and locknut for the pinion, then I'll be riiiiiiidin :D Rocket therapy, here I come !
 
locking nut

This is the locking mechanism I using for the pinion shaft, at the present the pinion doesn't have a slot through the threads for the locking washer, so I have to cut one in it. You may also be able to use red locktite but I want a sure locking mechanism on there. This may have happened to other final drives, I'm not too crazy about the locknut that comes from the factory.



http://www.r3owners.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=3869&stc=1&d=1339236439



http://www.r3owners.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=3870&stc=1&d=1339236439
 

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This is the locking mechanism I using for the pinion shaft, at the present the pinion doesn't have a slot through the threads for the locking washer, so I have to cut one in it. You may also be able to use red locktite but I want a sure locking mechanism on there. This may have happened to other final drives, I'm not too crazy about the locknut that comes from the factory.

Just a thought mate.. did you consider the torque through ths drive train.. maybe a slot for the lock tab key weakens the shaft and it may shear under extreme load.

If that happened it would lock up the bevel box and rear wheel maybe..

JM2CW
 
Thought about that, this is where the threads are, 30 mm thick, and would be taking just a little more than the depth of the threads. Don't think it will weaken it. Good thought though
 


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