I sure would like to see pictures of your scan guage set up. And maybe some more information on the Delco IAT like part numbers and what you did for the wireing. I moved mine to the intake base plate I am messig with along with the AAP I believe having it under the fuel take was not givving a true measurement even tho it was in the OEM hot intake duct. .
The pics of the IAT are fairly self-explanitory. These can literally be mounted anywhere and they are weatherproof. I mount them with the tip facing downward so that no trash (bugs, etc) can collect around the thermistor. The thermistor is dipped in epoxy, so even if you submerge it in water it won't hurt it. It is not necessary to put a "filter" around them to protect them. Another alternative that we use in automotive applications is to simply splice in a 5 watt resistor that will mirror a mild ambient temp (usually 70 degrees f). If i recall correctly that would be about a 1.5Kohm resistor, but you would need to check that with a scan tool installed to verify. Some of the automotive tunes actually do this substitution for you to take that variable out of the fuel/timing maps. I don't know if the PCV does this??
I'll send some pics of the scangauge mounted next.
I am realy interested in the OBD scan guage stuff as I was think I could add another plug under the seat for it while keeping one for the TUNE BOY software link cable. I link up many times and would not want to keep unhooking the scan guage.
Thanks for your input.
so if a 2005 Chevy Classic has this sensor in it then I am in luck as my boy totaled the wifes and it is still out in the back 40. I just have to locate the sensor but then it should be somwhere in the intake track. I wonder what other goodies I can use are on that beast.Warp9 where did you get the oil temp gauge for the reservoir. I can't make it out too well but that looks like what it is. I have one on my america and would like to put one on the Rocket.
Yes, I will get some info/pics on both the scangauge and the IAT. As far as the IAT nearly any GM or Chrysler product used them. They push into a grommet located in the flex tube or in the airbox itself. Shouldn't be more than $5 at junkyard anywhere and then you can rob a section of harnes so that you have a connector to go with it. I think any years from 1996-2006 should work for you.
I sure would like to see pictures of your scan guage set up. And maybe some more information on the Delco IAT like part numbers and what you did for the wireing. I moved mine to the intake base plate I am messig with along with the AAP I believe having it under the fuel take was not givving a true measurement even tho it was in the OEM hot intake duct. .
The pics of the IAT are fairly self-explanitory. These can literally be mounted anywhere and they are weatherproof. I mount them with the tip facing downward so that no trash (bugs, etc) can collect around the thermistor. The thermistor is dipped in epoxy, so even if you submerge it in water it won't hurt it. It is not necessary to put a "filter" around them to protect them. Another alternative that we use in automotive applications is to simply splice in a 5 watt resistor that will mirror a mild ambient temp (usually 70 degrees f). If i recall correctly that would be about a 1.5Kohm resistor, but you would need to check that with a scan tool installed to verify. Some of the automotive tunes actually do this substitution for you to take that variable out of the fuel/timing maps. I don't know if the PCV does this??
I'll send some pics of the scangauge mounted next.
Ok D, I pulled the temp sensor out of the 05 checy classic my son totaled. The part number is 1216024 it It is a delfi and looks exactly like the one you recommended. I have a couple questions first being the wiring terminals A & B which one do you hook on the pink with orange wire runnig to the ECU and then the pink and black.
Next you are not the first to move this sensor to the front behind the horn And I understand the reasoning behind it is because of the hot stagnet air on top of the engine. How did you find out the sensor was off ? I do not want to sound like I am smart or not but I do know there is hot air rising from the radiator up thru the headlight area. Of course there is less when you running down the highway but in slow traffic and at stp lights there is a considerable amount of heat rising its only natural. I believe you said you noticed it on the scan gauge but could it be off some from the heat rising. This is why I oppted to pu it in the filter thinking I might as well measure the air going into the engine and figured right inside the throttle body was the closest and the most accurate reading would be there. Again I know it sounds like I am questioning your desicions but its the only way to learn ? I was thining of placing a probe in the filter to measure the air temp and see how close it is to what the sensor is reading. Anyway I value your thoughts so I thought I would ask.
I didn't do anything exotic for the comparison and was scrolling thru the data and kinda found the problem accidently. On a stone cold engine, with key on and engine off the ECT and IAT should be very close in temp if not the same. They weren't. I checked ambient temp in the shop (approx 70degrees) which was what the ECT was reading. I then substituted (jumpered in) another IAT sensor and presto,,,the temps matched....thus my conclusion that the triumph IAT was skewed. I didn't really like the size of that sensor or the fact that it's a huge lump of brass, so I opted for the free Delco that I had lying around.
It does not matter which terminal you put to which, the circuit is not polarity sensitive. All the sensor is doing is varying the voltage drop by changing resistance, the ECU simply sends voltage out on one terminal and measures the return voltage. I suggest using the high-tech butt splices that actually form a weather-proof connection when heated with a heat gun. I buy mine thru the local NAPA store
I am not sure how the Scangauge is gonna like sharing the data stream with TUNE BOY. From my experience this is not a doable thing. What you may be able to do tho is splice it in in to the data line with a double pole, double throw switch, so that as you open the Tune Boy you close the Scangauge circuit.
The mount I used was a "Tech-connect Accessory Mount" from Kuryakyn, although I'm sure others are avail for less money. I did disassemble the Scangauge so that I could give it a little weatherproofing and also bolt it fast right through the back cover. The mount has a thumb nut that makes it easy to remove if I know its gonna rain or get really soaked for any reason. It has been wet, but not soaked and I haven't had any problems yet. I did change the power supply at the OBD connector from B+ to ignition 1 because I didn't want it powered all the time.
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