Rocket 3, 2020 and later, Tank Removal

MonkeyMan said:

When I do certain jobs, I never know when I'm coming back to them, and I easily can make mistakes. Especially if the job is new to me. I was scared to pull the tank off of my new Rocket, so i set out like I usually do, with my numbered baggies and went at it. I made a list of my steps, and my small parts coming off got put in numbered baggies. Attached is a list of my steps, copied from my Word document.

2020 and Later Rocket 3 Tank Removal

Click to expand...

MonkeyMan said:

When I do certain jobs, I never know when I'm coming back to them, and I easily can make mistakes. Especially if the job is new to me. I was scared to pull the tank off of my new Rocket, so i set out like I usually do, with my numbered baggies and went at it. I made a list of my steps, and my small parts coming off got put in numbered baggies. Attached is a list of my steps, copied from my Word document.

2020 and Later Rocket 3 Tank Removal



siphon gas out of tank (siphon is in bottom drawer of tool cabinet)



Fuel pump fuse, 7.5 amps, pulled out. Bag five. Pushed starter button until bike stalled to get fuel pressure out of fuel rail.

battery removal b.1

Clear small windscreen removed b.2

R black plastic mount for screen, thin tapered end goes down- b3

L Black plastic mount for screen removed, and flyscreen take off. bag Number four

Stock harness cover, just in front of handle bar clamp removed. It is located between handle bar and front screen. The screws are accessed through access holes visible at upper portion of wires and stuff after flyscreen is removed. The screws are #3 hex head.

GPS taken off (not applicable)

Removal of ram mount at handlebar, Bag seven (not applicable)

Loosened instrument clamp, then tilted the instrument cluster upward and towards the front of the bike, away from the tank, allowing room to lift the tank when the time came. (Torque is 6.6 lb-ft)

Removal of Allen bolt at front of tank, Bag eight

Little black cap over the screw at the rear of the tank (nipple cap), removed. bag nine

Bolt and round cross piece that goes to the strap at the rear of the tank removed, Bag 10

Long linear aluminum strap removed, placed on workbench

Long pin bolt, goes through rear tank pivot, 8 mm, the head of the bolt is on the left. Also pulled out the metal sleeve, pulling it out from the left side, the sleeve is what the bolt sits in. Bag 11

Undid rubber hose on right side of under tank, by raising the front of the tank upward. This hose connects to the charcoal canister

Had to remove screw from the stupid on off switch located at front aspect of L side cover, so I could get to the fuel rail connector plug on the left side of tank . bag 12

Pushed the lock clip back on the quick connect fuel line, left side of tank, and used fuel line disconnect pliars to squeeze each side of the connector, allowing it to come off.

Electrical plug undone under tank: the tank portion of the line gets removed by going forward with the male piece; there is a single tang on top of the plug that gets lifted up, allowing me to pull the male portion towards front of bike.

Tank Lifted off

Click to expand...

MonkeyMan said:

When I do certain jobs, I never know when I'm coming back to them, and I easily can make mistakes. Especially if the job is new to me. I was scared to pull the tank off of my new Rocket, so i set out like I usually do, with my numbered baggies and went at it. I made a list of my steps, and my small parts coming off got put in numbered baggies. Attached is a list of my steps, copied from my Word document.

2020 and Later Rocket 3 Tank Removal



siphon gas out of tank (siphon is in bottom drawer of tool cabinet)



Fuel pump fuse, 7.5 amps, pulled out. Bag five. Pushed starter button until bike stalled to get fuel pressure out of fuel rail.

battery removal b.1

Clear small windscreen removed b.2

R black plastic mount for screen, thin tapered end goes down- b3

L Black plastic mount for screen removed, and flyscreen take off. bag Number four

Stock harness cover, just in front of handle bar clamp removed. It is located between handle bar and front screen. The screws are accessed through access holes visible at upper portion of wires and stuff after flyscreen is removed. The screws are #3 hex head.

GPS taken off (not applicable)

Removal of ram mount at handlebar, Bag seven (not applicable)

Loosened instrument clamp, then tilted the instrument cluster upward and towards the front of the bike, away from the tank, allowing room to lift the tank when the time came. (Torque is 6.6 lb-ft)

Removal of Allen bolt at front of tank, Bag eight

Little black cap over the screw at the rear of the tank (nipple cap), removed. bag nine

Bolt and round cross piece that goes to the strap at the rear of the tank removed, Bag 10

Long linear aluminum strap removed, placed on workbench

Long pin bolt, goes through rear tank pivot, 8 mm, the head of the bolt is on the left. Also pulled out the metal sleeve, pulling it out from the left side, the sleeve is what the bolt sits in. Bag 11

Undid rubber hose on right side of under tank, by raising the front of the tank upward. This hose connects to the charcoal canister

Had to remove screw from the stupid on off switch located at front aspect of L side cover, so I could get to the fuel rail connector plug on the left side of tank . bag 12

Pushed the lock clip back on the quick connect fuel line, left side of tank, and used fuel line disconnect pliars to squeeze each side of the connector, allowing it to come off.

Electrical plug undone under tank: the tank portion of the line gets removed by going forward with the male piece; there is a single tang on top of the plug that gets lifted up, allowing me to pull the male portion towards front of bike.

Tank Lifted off

Click to expand...

Journeyman said:

Yes, I've done it. Great write up above, btw. I was installing aux lights and wanted to route the harness carefully by removing the tank. The part of the description above that should be in bold face is to use disconnect pliers, which I did not have. No room with the ignition switch to get a purchase on that connection without 'em. I tried and tried. I will order some special pliers for when I need to change plugs, valve adjustment, etc., but in the meantime I just went to plan "B" and fished it through with a heavy duty zip tie.

Click to expand...

Journeyman said:

Here's a photo showing what's under the tank. This is the first time I removed the tank and you'll see where my wires were routed. I also supported them near the front of the tank with a zip tie to something near the steering column to keep them from sliding down there. You'll want to run your wires on the left side (intake- cooler and less obstructed) over that rubber bumper the tank sits on. It'll be the only thing between it and the tank that will keep the wires in place.



Now, having removed the tank I have them secured more neatly, but other than that it probably doesn't really matter.

If you plan to do any work on your bike I'd recommend ordering those fuel line pliers so you can at the very least change spark plugs, air and fuel filters.


Here's more on that for the 10K and 20K services.....

10k mile service - DIY (also, Spark Plugs Not Tight & Wire Boots Not Pushed On!)

Sharing my experience here changing the air and fuel filter and inspecting the spark plugs. Refer to the manual for the basics, but here are things that may help, along with some very surprising discoveries I made... 1) Removing the tank There are three things to disconnect besides the bolt...

www.r3owners.net

A look at the 2.5 Innards - DIY 20K mile service, including valve clearance check and shim replacement

Part 1 This includes valve clearance check and shim replacement. Also air, fuel, spark plug and coolant replacement, and bleeding the clutch. This is a work in progress, so edits and further information to come... Get the service manual here...

www.r3owners.net

Click to expand...

Journeyman said:

Here's a photo showing what's under the tank. This is the first time I removed the tank and you'll see where my wires were routed. I also supported them near the front of the tank with a zip tie to something near the steering column to keep them from sliding down there. You'll want to run your wires on the left side (intake- cooler and less obstructed) over that rubber bumper the tank sits on. It'll be the only thing between it and the tank that will keep the wires in place.



Now, having removed the tank I have them secured more neatly, but other than that it probably doesn't really matter.

If you plan to do any work on your bike I'd recommend ordering those fuel line pliers so you can at the very least change spark plugs, air and fuel filters.


Here's more on that for the 10K and 20K services.....

10k mile service - DIY (also, Spark Plugs Not Tight & Wire Boots Not Pushed On!)

Sharing my experience here changing the air and fuel filter and inspecting the spark plugs. Refer to the manual for the basics, but here are things that may help, along with some very surprising discoveries I made... 1) Removing the tank There are three things to disconnect besides the bolt...

www.r3owners.net

A look at the 2.5 Innards - DIY 20K mile service, including valve clearance check and shim replacement

Part 1 This includes valve clearance check and shim replacement. Also air, fuel, spark plug and coolant replacement, and bleeding the clutch. This is a work in progress, so edits and further information to come... Get the service manual here...

www.r3owners.net

Click to expand...