Removing the Cam Ladder

I was doing a brake job on my Mustang years ago and had a fastener with a torx head that wouldn't come off. I used a torx bit on a breaker bar and the bit snapped so I returned it and it was replaced as it came with a lifetime warranty. It snapped too so I returned it and got my money back and borrowed a Snap On bit which easily removed the bolt. Use a high quality bit.
 
a Snap On bit
I have had the exact opposite experience with the snap on Torx bits, had a set in the shop and after a while called them snap OFF bits. After a few sets I discovered the TENG brand. half the price, and I have had two racks of them now for a few years and not one has broken.
 
After measuring the the valve clearances I found the number 3 exhaust valves slightly too tight i.e. .12 and .14, they should be at least .15 mm. In order to replace the shims with the correct thickness the cam ladder and cams have to be removed. The manual says the cam ladder bolts are torqued to 10 nm, which is not much torque. The first two were very tight and but I managed to loosen them. The next one was so tight it sheered off the end of the torx bit. So I bought a new torx bit and tried a different bolt and the same thing happened. WTF? And yes I am turning it counterclockwise. Yes, they are cheap torx bits but they should be able to handle 10 nm.

This does not make any sense. Any suggestions?

Have you read any of the posts about changing out the shims without removing the cams. @Rocket Scientist showed how to make and use a tool he made. It seems to work for him...You might want to give it a look.
 
Torx head bits are made of butter....most all of them. If you can get a Snap On or Mac tool man's attention, get them from them. They are so much better.
 
Have you read any of the posts about changing out the shims without removing the cams. @Rocket Scientist showed how to make and use a tool he made. It seems to work for him...You might want to give it a look.

Thanks much Bedifferent, that is going to save a lot of time and frustration!
 
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Thanks much Bedifferent, that is going to save a lot of time and frustration!
I would be carefull trying to change shims with the cams in like Fred did. It sounds great until you break a shim bucket.

When I said shock I meant like Nev was referring to. Only I used brass drift on the head of the bolt and shocked it with a ballpeen hammer. This like Nev said frees up the two dissimilar metals at the pitch line of the thread.
 
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I would be carefull trying to change shims with the cams in like Fred did. It sounds great until you break a shim bucket..

Didn't Fred break the bucket because he turned the engine with the shim removed?

Seems like there are hazards either way, effing up the cam ladder or breaking a bucket. If the cam ladder is damaged you have to buy a whole new cylinder head.

Then again, even though only the number three exhaust valves need to be adjusted, If I remove the cams I can easily set all the valves to the middle of spec. I will have to give this some more thought. Fortunately I have another bike to ride and can take my time.
 
I would be carefull trying to change shims with the cams in like Fred did. It sounds great until you break a shim bucket.

When I said shock I meant like Nev was referring to. Only I used brass drift on the head of the bolt and shocked it with a ballpeen hammer. This like Nev said frees up the two dissimilar metals at the pitch line of the thread.

As long as you don't rotate the engine with shim out you'll be fine. I was trying to remove all the out of spec shims at the same time because I'm lazy.
 
I successfully did mine last winter using Fred's technique. Made the compressing tool from his drawing. Also made the screwdriver tool another guy demonstrated. They worked great. A small strong neodymium magnet helped get the shims out once the bucket was depressed.

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