Removing the Cam Ladder

I was doing a brake job on my Mustang years ago and had a fastener with a torx head that wouldn't come off. I used a torx bit on a breaker bar and the bit snapped so I returned it and it was replaced as it came with a lifetime warranty. It snapped too so I returned it and got my money back and borrowed a Snap On bit which easily removed the bolt. Use a high quality bit.
 
TO rocket said:
a Snap On bit
Click to expand...
I have had the exact opposite experience with the snap on Torx bits, had a set in the shop and after a while called them snap OFF bits. After a few sets I discovered the TENG brand. half the price, and I have had two racks of them now for a few years and not one has broken.
 

Have you read any of the posts about changing out the shims without removing the cams. @Rocket Scientist showed how to make and use a tool he made. It seems to work for him...You might want to give it a look.
 
Torx head bits are made of butter....most all of them. If you can get a Snap On or Mac tool man's attention, get them from them. They are so much better.
 
Ugarte said:
Thanks much Bedifferent, that is going to save a lot of time and frustration!
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I would be carefull trying to change shims with the cams in like Fred did. It sounds great until you break a shim bucket.

When I said shock I meant like Nev was referring to. Only I used brass drift on the head of the bolt and shocked it with a ballpeen hammer. This like Nev said frees up the two dissimilar metals at the pitch line of the thread.
 
Last edited:
warp9.9 said:
I would be carefull trying to change shims with the cams in like Fred did. It sounds great until you break a shim bucket..
Click to expand...

Didn't Fred break the bucket because he turned the engine with the shim removed?

Seems like there are hazards either way, effing up the cam ladder or breaking a bucket. If the cam ladder is damaged you have to buy a whole new cylinder head.

Then again, even though only the number three exhaust valves need to be adjusted, If I remove the cams I can easily set all the valves to the middle of spec. I will have to give this some more thought. Fortunately I have another bike to ride and can take my time.
 

As long as you don't rotate the engine with shim out you'll be fine. I was trying to remove all the out of spec shims at the same time because I'm lazy.
 
I successfully did mine last winter using Fred's technique. Made the compressing tool from his drawing. Also made the screwdriver tool another guy demonstrated. They worked great. A small strong neodymium magnet helped get the shims out once the bucket was depressed.

 
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