Reasonable Amount to Pay?
 
I feel like I got a good solid deal from L&D in Dover Delaware on my '08 R3. It was still in the crate when I paid $14,100 bone stock back in July '08. Whatever you end up paying initially, you'll have 20k in it after the 1st year anyway, no one can leave well enough alone! You'll bling it, trick it and never stop looking for ways to go faster still!
 
Last edited:
HellFire said:
Whatever you end up paying initially, you'll have 20k in it after the 1st year anyway, no one can leave well enough alone! You'll bling it, trick it and never stop looking for ways to go faster still!
Click to expand...

Hahaha ... yep. I've almost tripled my original investment. I started with a bone stock bike ... and then ... well, its not exactly stock anymore. But I'm pretty sure there is not another Rocket on the road quite like it
 
Another way to get the dealers best price is to use these words ....
"maybe I should ask my wife first" . Of course you have to deal with the fact it makes you look like a puss ... but were looking for a good deal ... right?
Nevermind, I wouldn't be able to show my face there again. Forget I suggested it.
It sets you up for that infamous comeback line ... "were not buying drapes here".
 
Just to set the facts straight.

There is an invoice for each motorcycle. When the bike is delivered to the dealer, in most cases, the dealer's floor plan source, pays the manuf the invoice amount for the bike. The dealer is borrowing the money until the bike is sold. When the bike is sold and the dealer collects the money from the buyer, either through the "cashing" of a contract, or the cashing of your check, he must transfer funds to the lender to pay off his floor plan on that unit. Hopefully he has collected more than is due. (profit) He must pay his people and other expenses from that profit.

Most manuf have a line item included in the invoice, called holdback. This is a dealer-invented option. The factory in essence is adding to the cost of the bike, (or car in my case) and will "hold" it for the dealer to be paid at a later date, usually quarterly. This is added profit that the dealer does not pay commission on.

Most dealers, when times are tough, are willing to sell the bike at or near invoice in order to move a unit and in essence, pay off the balance due on their floor plan. This stops the interest they are paying on the bike every month.

BTW, the dealer also receives a commission from the bank if they arrange financing for you. If the dealer marks it up above the "buy" rate, the lowest amount the bank is willing to loan at, the bank will pay the dealer 70% of the extra profit in the loan. However, if the dealer writes the contract at the buy rate, the bank only pays a mini of usually $100. In the case of 3.9% offered as an incentivisied rate, the dealer gets Zero. Shop the rates available at your local credit unions before you buy and ask the dealer to match them. They usually will.

I bought my 08 R3T last June. MSRP $17,300? invoice, $15,500 ish. That's what I paid, plus dealer prep, (added profit) and taxes. They made a little, I saved some, we are both happy.
 
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