Reasonable Amount to Pay?

It's never the business owner's fault when they go out of business, didn't you know that. ;)
Excellent point!

I believe it's called "dealer hold back" or perhaps it's manufacturer's hold back; I call it a kick back and I still don't understand why it occurs at all. But knowing what the Big Three were inflating or charging as the hold back made for being able to make a bargain basement offer. Not knowing the hold back at Triumph makes it difficult to start a deal. I still figure 10% off MSRP.

Harley dealers had, or perhaps still do (I don't know anymore), one major thing going for them: Service. The over-priced signature stuff was something to filter through while good service was being finalized. I believe it is called a "business model". And perhaps/maybe an awesome V-Twin was a good selling point as well:rolleyes:

My inexperience with Triumph dealers is large. What little I've seen is that Triumph dealers also sell two, three or perhaps a half dozen other brands. Service is divided so widely it's pretty **** thin when it comes to getting work done right and in a timely manner. Harley dealerships sell Harley Davidson motorcycles and nothing else. Aside from the signature apparel and bolt ons. Today'seconomic climate has Harley scampering to survive. Hopefully it can.
 
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Thanks for the replies. However, I don't understand the line of thinking that implies that if I try to get the best deal I can that I'm somehow responsible for the dealer going out of business. Does anyone think that I (or any buyer) can force the dealer to take my offer? I wish I had such power! A business savvy dealer will only take my offer if he feels it's in his best interest to do so at the time.

Hi JLoss:

I'll offer an opinion that appears to be quite different than that of many others.

First off, the OTD price offered is not a good deal. You can do much better. Time is money, how much money is relative to the individual. For some, paying full retail to save several hours or a couple of days may be well worth it. For others, spending several days to save several hundred or even a couple of thousand may also be well worth it. Disregard the value that a unit of time holds to others. Consider only what a unit of time is worth to you and your unique situation. Also, "getting a good deal," may be worth far more than the cash saved. For me personally, it’s a fun game and an interesting challenge in negotiation and persuasion.

With regard to being charitable to dealers vs. taking them to task, do consider the following:

It does not matter how much a seller pays to acquire a product, nor does it matter what that seller's costs are. Such considerations are, frankly, irrelevant.

There is a price that the market will bear and competition is the mechanism through which that price is discovered. The price will reflect the economic costs involved in the aggregate, though not necessarily for a specific unit of production.

If your dealer has ready and easy access to additional units, then any unit that he sells for more than he can source a new unit is a profit. Such profits may be through kick-backs, cash from you, or intangible benefits through higher volumes, such as market penetration, future sales opportunities for service or products, enhanced carry terms from the manufacturer, etc.

Thus, if your dealer perceives that any benefit can be had from selling to you at a given price, and further negotiations have utterly failed to extract a higher price from you, then the dealer is better off selling to you at that price, rather than not selling to you at all. Even if the dealer makes next to nothing, if another unit is easily had, then the dealer should take the small profit/gain/benefit and get another unit to sell. This is sometimes referred to as regression to the mean and represents the concept that over time, competition will move the market price toward the marginal cost of production, or the price at which selling just “one more unit,” no longer yields a benefit or profit.

If however, the dealer has limited availability of additional units, then the dealer must consider whether it is best to sell this unit to you at a given price, or hold out for a better price, despite the risk.

Sometimes, I have found it necessary to explain to a dealer that selling to you, even at a low price, is better than losing the sale completely. Especially in a down economy, you as a purchaser are in the driver's seat. Sometimes, negotiating the most favorable price possible, and then leaving the dealer with your proposed price as a "standing offer" and your phone number should they wish to make the sale is helpful in helping encourage them to see that your price is a fair price. Remember however that it is a negotiation, and the dealer will use his own tactics to encourage you to see that offer is a fair price, such as allowing you to leave, and then not calling you back.

In any case, if it were up to me, I would do everything in my power to get the best price possible, assuming that your time, or the joy of getting a good deal, is worth it to you.

If you do not wish to upset your local dealer, then purchase elsewhere and then let your local dealer service your bike. They'll obviously be happy to do so, as they make money on that too. Why not get the best of both worlds?

Sorry about the long post. :eek:

PS: If a dealer goes out of business, it is unfortunate, but it is a function of the market, not of your lack of charity in a business negotiation.
 
Excellent point!

I believe it's called "dealer hold back" or perhaps it's manufacturer's hold back; I call it a kick back and I still don't understand why it occurs at all. But knowing what the Big Three were inflating or charging as the hold back made for being able to make a bargain basement offer. Not knowing the hold back at Triumph makes it difficult to start a deal. I still figure 10% off MSRP.

What I have been told the "holdback" is for, is to help the dealer pay the interest neccessary to keep an inventory of vehicles on the lot. So if you get to a car that has not been on the lot long the dealer stands to profit more or if there is one that has been there for 90 days or so, it will actually start costing them.
 
Looking for The Best Price on an R3T

JLoss:

I am not sure where you live, but if obtaining the best price is your sole motivator I would suggest that you obtain a quote from the following dealer... www.parkcycle.com. As the R3T's are in strong demand, they may not offer you as much discount as they would on an R3 or R3 Classic. However, their quote should give you a good benchmark for reference. IMO there is another criteria that is more important than merely OTD price when selecting a Triumph dealer, that is their service competency. I would check their service department and learn if their technicians keep updated by regularly attending OE training courses and ask them how many TDU repairs and upgrade kits that they have performed on R3's. It is important that they are more familiar with R3's than simply changing the oil or re-flashing the computer. It would also be a good idea to verify some customer references who have had these major repairs performed and contact them to learn of their satisfaction with the dealers service department. While you would like to hope that you won't encounter any need for major repair work during the warranty period, you should plan for this contingent. In general OE warranty labor reimbursement rates are not designed for the dealers to make a profit on the repair, rather they are configured to reimburse their costs. Consider this scenario, if the dealer is in their busy service season (making a profit as they should) and it is determined that you need a major warranty repair. What motivates the dealer to perform the warranty service in a timely fashion, especially if you didn't buy the R3T from them? Is it likely that they may cite parts availibility (or lack thereof) as the cause of the repair delays instead of explaining to you that they must prioritize their service work based on profitability and will get your warranty repair completed as soon as time permits? As you surf through the various R3 forums and read of dealers taking 1 or 2 mos to perform major warranty repairs, often citing parts delays as the primary reasons. Sound familiar? By the way, Triumph is very familiar with their warranty repairs and maintain replacement parts inventory in GA that they can ship to most dealers within 2 days. Here lies the catch 22, do you take the gamble that you won't have any need for major repairs during the warranty period and purchase your R3T at the best possible price? Or, do you take the more conservative approach by locating a dealer with a good service department and negotiate the best price (using comparatives) and have additional leverage to assist you if major service work is needed during the warranty period? What value would you place on not being able to ride your R3T for 1 or 2 mos during the prime riding season? Best of Luck in your search!
 
R3 Touring Price

Over here where they make them the dollar price would be 18000 including 17.5% sales tax, estimate most dealers on around 10 percent.
 
17k for the bike, then some add ons

When I bought mine it was March of 08' and it ws 17k for the bike, since I was the first person to buy one at the Nashville store my dealer offered my parts at 20% off and didn't charge me labor to put them on so I ordered the crash bars, the louder mufflers, the wide sissy bar, the studded leather tank bib, a studded leather sissy bar bag, fog lights and bracket, the bag rails and the front fender rail, the last two had not come in by Christmas so they sent me a check for those. I also ordered the taller windshield which is much better for winter riding. I am very glad I bought early as I noticed the black/white two tone isn't available this year.:D

I have 5100 miles and really have no issues, the back tire do go too fast though.
 
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You got a nice deal Elvis. I didn't get any extras at time of purchase.

BTW, how do you like the sound of the TORs pipes you had put on ? Are they much louder than stock ?

We would all appreciate a sound clip if you could manage it !!! Hint. Hint.
 
You got a nice deal Elvis. I didn't get any extras at time of purchase.

BTW, how do you like the sound of the TORs pipes you had put on ? Are they much louder than stock ?

We would all appreciate a sound clip if you could manage it !!! Hint. Hint.

They are not noticeably louder at idle, you notice it the most when you are running at a constant speed and twist the thottle, they say is it a HP gain but I can't even verify that. My father says I sound like a blackhawk helicopter coming when he is outside and I am riding up.:D

I will see if I can figure a way for a sound clip.
 
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