Rear Wheel Removal

RockOn said:

I went to Gord web site, they wanted $19.95 for 16 oz. and 9 bucks shipping, sheesh. Went to Amazon, same price but only $5.99 shipping, yeehaw, but it appears to be shipped by mule train because it will be a week or so before I get it.

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I polished the back rim today, started about 2 in the afternoon and finished about 5:30, - 1 hr break in-between, so it took me 2.5 hrs just to polish the 1 wheel not counting removing it, that took about 2 hrs cause I stripped 1 of the hex head bolt for the brake disk to get it off, luckily it was out enough to cut the edges off 2 sides and get a 12mm wrench on it, now I have to find a new bolt, hope they aren't discontinued, 1 website said they are, and another says they are available, but that doesn't always mean they are available I found out with the windscreen lock, discontinued can't get it anywhere, not even a used one.
Well I think Gords aluminum polish did fairly good, not perfect, it still has some faint spots I'm sure I could have gotten out with some wet sand paper, maybe start with 1000 grit and work down to 6000, would probably make it perfect, but I was done for the day, maybe I'll stop tonight and get some, I didn't have any, but here's what it looks like after 2 to 3 hrs.
A very big difference, I used these buffing Wheels I got on Amazon, Car Buffers and Polishers Kit for Drill, 14Pcs Drill Polishing Wheel Foam Ball Buffing Pads Sponge Ball for Automotive Car Wheels Hub Care, Metal, Plastic, Ceramic and Glass Car Buffers and Polishers Kit for Drill, 14Pcs Drill Polishing Wheel Foam Ball Buffing Pads Sponge Ball for Automotive Car Wheels Hub Care, Metal, Plastic, Ceramic and Glass worked very good, perfect size, probably should have used them from the beginning, I used a cordless drill driver with them, I started with the 0000 steel wool, wet the wheel with the soaked steel wool, let it soak for a few minutes, and rub the heavy corrosion off. Then clean it with the shop towels after it dries, at least that's what I did, a few times then I used the buffing Wheels, I even used a Dremel type tool to get in the holes. GL hope it lasts a long long time

I gave up polishing after about 15 minutes of using the very fine steel wool that came with the Gord's polish. I'm lazy. The rear wheel now looks clean but certainly does not shine like yours. Seeing what good looking results your hard work produced might motivate me to dedicate lots more time, effort and tools the next time I change the tire.

RockOn said:

I gave up polishing after about 15 minutes of using the very fine steel wool that came with the Gord's polish. I'm lazy. The rear wheel now looks clean but certainly does not shine like yours. Seeing what good looking results your hard work produced might motivate me to dedicate lots more time, effort and tools the next time I change the tire.

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Looks as good as mine, mine I kept going trying to get more but I had a lot of 0000 steel wool and kept using new pieces, I bought some 1000 grit and 3000 grit wet sand paper and I'm going to try that tomorrow, wish me luck, I think it says on the Gords to use that on stains, the glue from past wheel weights I took off with gum out carb cleaner and steel wool, fairly easy.
I don't think that gear oil is supposed to be used on the drive unit because the LS stands for limited slip, Triumph dealership told me Motul V-Twin gear oil, I read on here a guy called Mobil to find a replacement for the mobilube that is recommended and they said Delvac. Mobil Synthetic, SAE Grade : 75W-90, 1 gal. Jug 122035-1 Each it has all the requirements hypoid, full synthetic maybe other requirements?? And don't forget the pump, doesn't fit the threads on the cap but did the job nicely wasn't going to keep it on the bottle anyway, cheap.

I just did mine with it a couple weeks ago, the stuff that came out was as Black as the bike and smelled like regular gear oil not synthetic, I couldn't find a quart unless you want delivered from Walmart I don't know why they won't deliver to the store and you pick it up for free but it was like $26 oil and delivery, compared to $53 for 4 time's as much a gallon on Amazon, I have prime so I get free delivery, but I think if you spend over$35 it's free so a lot better deal and I can change it 20 more times, it only takes 6oz, I see you used the Jack under the tire to lower the tire, I was afraid to Jack the bike up that high to get the jack under the wheel, I didn't even jack it up to the first notch for the safety lock on the bike jack, I just jacked the weight off the tire where it was not even an inch off the ground and after I loosened it up and disconnected the wheel I jacked it up just enough to get the tire out, hope it goes down slowly when I put it down, I did put it up higher and bought it down before I unbolted the wheel, wish me luck you'll know if I mess up, wish me luck, well GL and good day, what year bike you have??? Mines a 08 so I had 13 year's of grime and corrosion Did you put the tire on the rim??? Did you get it balanced??? How much??? My shop quoted me $35 a tire to balance only, and $150 to do the install totally, I figured for $80 let them do it, they charged me $350 never do that again, they ripped me a $100 more for the tire's too, I couldn't find any in stock anyway!!! And I don't really trust anyone to do my tires after I had a flat with a tube year's ago, but that's a long story, I told it somewhere here!!! What tire did you go with????

The new tire is a Bridgestone Exedra Max, 180/70R/16. I have the same model on the front, but different size of course. I took the tire to 8 Ball Tire that only do motorcycle tires here in San Diego county. They match any tire price you can find. Charged me $10.00 for balance beads, $30 to mount (less 10 bucks because I carry their business car), plus $170.00 for the tire. You've got my attention with your belief that I have been using the wrong bevel box oil in both my 2006 Classic and my '08 Touring. I did a search and see other forum members have been using the same, "LS" oil. So, I'll have to look into that. I change the final drive oil(Bevel Box) every 10,000-12,000 miles during tire changes. I have never seen black oil drain out. It goes in clear and comes out amber like the color of engine oil. My Triumph Service manual calls for Mobile One , SHC, full synthetic 75W/90. I will have to find out how the SHC standard compares to API-GL5 that is printed on my bottle. Found this: "Mobilube 1 SHC 75W-90 meets or exceeds the requirements of the API Service MT-1/GL-4/GL-5 gear oil service classifications." Attaching picture of fine print on bottle. Nothing there worries me. Looks to me that it means this, "LS" designated gear oil can be used in both conventional and limited slip differentials.

Okay check out the Delvac I think it's good for like 500⁰f, they use it in semi trucks transmission and rear, I read a review on Amazon a guy used it in his porche transmission and said it shifted better, I'm sure what you have is fine, neither one shows SHC I don't know what that is, but the Delvac says hypoid, not sure what that is but the mobilube shc fully synthetic says hypoid, the one in the manual that I couldn't find I think it said 75/90W, but your's says race proven, I'm sure they are both fine, I don't know Motul V-Twin gear oil the dealership recommended they use, but I've used mobile one in my car and like it so, they are both synthetic so I'm sure they are really Slick.
I just did Day 2 of polishing the back wheel, I wet sanded it with 1000 then 3000, then buffing Wheel with the Gords seems to work better if you let it soak for a few minutes then continue buffing, then wipe off with red shop rags then finish with microfiber towel, I also replaced pads and fluid in the back break, ordered the bolt from bike bandit, local shop online said it was discontinued, how can they do that, it's only 13 year's old, I don't like that, I'm finding that too much already.
Oh I have the Mobil delvac grease too for the spline and any parts I greased, couldn't find moly grease in advance auto, felt pretty good tonight, even with the missing break disk bolt hey it's got 5 others right
Not very many spots on the rim, maybe a couple really faint spots, but I'm very happy, I tried the mothers, did nothing, I got about half a bottle of Gords left, it should be enough to do the front, but I'm getting more of that stuff, I think it did a great job!!! Just what I wanted!!! I'm very happy, I still have to clean the holes but I think a good wash will do that, I didn't spend too much time on that, I already did the front brakes and fluid and it should be easier to get off and on, it worked out just lowering the jack to put the tire on, very slowly, checking that it didn't bind on the way down. Did you do the front yet??? Any pointers!!! Have a great day!!!

My front tire is still like new, so won't need to do it anytime soon. Only ideas I have regarding your lift technique when removing wheels is to consider using ratchet straps hooked to overhead eyebolts or something similar as extra insurance that your bike does not slip off your lift and squash you like a bug. I installed 4 eyebolts in my garage ceiling so I have two at the front of the bike and two at the rear. I connect the front straps to my engine guards/highway pegs and the rear straps to my luggage rack. I also have lift plates installed under my engines to make sure the lift arms are not misaligned or applying unequal or excessive pressure on the sump/pan.

Late to the party, haven't read everything, but when i change the rear tire on my touring, i jack it up, remove the rear shocks, let the swing arm drop, now i can get the axel out without playing with the exhaust, slip the rim off of the hub, lower the front of the bike to bring the back up more, bring the tire towards the back of the bike, put it on an angle and slide it out.

RockOn said:

My front tire is still like new, so won't need to do it anytime soon. Only ideas I have regarding your lift technique when removing wheels is to consider using ratchet straps hooked to overhead eyebolts or something similar as extra insurance that your bike does not slip off your lift and squash you like a bug. I installed 4 eyebolts in my garage ceiling so I have two at the front of the bike and two at the rear. I connect the front straps to my engine guards/highway pegs and the rear straps to my luggage rack. I also have lift plates installed under my engines to make sure the lift arms are not misaligned or applying unequal or excessive pressure on the sump/pan.

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THAT LOKS LIKE A GOOD WAY TO BRING DOWN THE ROOF. SOrry caps
i would use stands under the crash bars or stack 2x4s inbetween the jack so as to keep up jack in case u had a pressure problem with jack (just as a safety)

TURBO200R4 said:

THAT LOKS LIKE A GOOD WAY TO BRING DOWN THE ROOF. SOrry caps
i would use stands under the crash bars or stack 2x4s inbetween the jack so as to keep up jack in case u had a pressure problem with jack (just as a safety)

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Well, I suppose that is possible if the lift collapsed, even though the 8" long eyebolts are anchored in 4'"X 6" laminated beams above the ceiling. Like all bike lifts I have seen mine has heavy steel bars that lock into notches at the base to prevent the lift from lowering if the hydraulic pressure goes south. Maybe that can fail. I believe anything is possible. Maybe I will add my jack stands in the future now that you have stressed me out with your visions of calamity. No harm in being a belt plus suspenders kind of guy. Thanks.

RockOn said:

Well, I suppose that is possible if the lift collapsed, even though the 8" long eyebolts are anchored in 4'"X 6" laminated beams above the ceiling. Like all bike lifts I have seen mine has heavy steel bars that lock into notches at the base to prevent the lift from lowering if the hydraulic pressure goes south. Maybe that can fail. I believe anything is possible. Maybe I will add my jack stands in the future now that you have stressed me out with your visions of calamity. No harm in being a belt plus suspenders kind of guy. Thanks.

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when i seen those eye bolts remined me of a swing bench chair i put up and the eye bolt snapped off at the beam.