Rear Wheel Removal

[RockOn]

I should have told you about that "Gords" aluminum polish I bought, looked all over you tube for an easier way of polishing the wheels, do a search and check it out, I saw one guy tested a few compounds, he determined mother's chrome polish the best, spent a few hours I forget how many for a couple days on 1 truck wheel, it looked painful. But I'm waiting till I have time to do the back break's and polish the back rim at least to see how it works, I bookmarked your post and let you know how it turns out

I am glad you mention this because after I have the local tire guys install a new tire I want to work on the wheel with something to make it look good again. There is black glue residue from old wheel weights plus a bunch of the existing wheel weights on there will need to come off because I always have DynaBeads put inside my tires. So, there will be lots of crud to remove from my wheel when I get it back. Your mention of doing your brakes also reminds me that when I removed my caliper from the wheel rotor one of the pads fell out. The pad pin was in place for the back end of the pads but somehow the front end of one pad slipped out from it's groove. Maybe that isn't unusual when pulling the caliper off but I don't recall that happening when I did this on my "06 classic.

Anyway, thanks for the lead on Gords and Mother's.

 

[martym52]

Got the rear wheel removed. Only took me 4 or 5 hours. I do not know how the fella in the video loosened the spindle nut and brake torque bolt without removing the right side silencer. Only thing I can guess at would be using an open end box wrench to get in there. How the heck did he get a torque wrench and 24 mm socket in there with that muffler in place? Oh well, just one of a few zillion life mysteries, eh? I was surprised and a bit distressed to see black fluid/gunk covering the bevel box between the fill plug and drain plug. One or both plugs must not be tight or God ,please forbid, one or both plugs have been cross-threaded. I can't recall if there are O rings on those plugs but will look into it as I change the fluid. The bevel box drain plugs on my '06 classic have never shown any sign of leakage, so something is amiss here on the '08 Touring.

Wheel drive gear and bearings looked fine, spin smoothly and adequately greased. I will clean and apply new Loctite Moly grease. Wasn't planning on removing bevel box for a spline inspection/greasing but should probably do it while I am in there. I have seen several interesting and clever ways on the forum to get the bevel box to join back up with the drive shaft. I am a bit worried about screwing it up or losing the spring that is in there. Frankly, everything I do on my Rockets is done with some trepidation.

I see in one of the comments that I should be in great fear over installing another Bridgestone but I am going to do it anyway. The previous owner installed a new Bridgestone Excedra Max on the front wheel and it is still in very good shape after the few K miles I have put on it. So, I want the same tire and tread pattern on the back, necessary or not. I did notice the old worn out Bridgestone on the rear wheel did not match the front tire tread. So, somewhere along the line they changed the pattern. I see new rear Bridgestone Excedra tires online match my front tire pattern.

Another interesting thing I discovered. The hex head nuts attaching the silencer to the pannier rails on the left side are 13mm and the nuts for the silencer on the right side are 12mm. I kid you not. Weird, eh?

PS It now occurs to me that I must have spent at least an hour or two out the 5 hours I was in the garage polishing the chrome bits. It sure holds up the show when I get distracted by dirt, smudges, road grime, bug guts, etc. I can't help stopping what I am doing and get a microfiber rag and my Honda 3 in 1 polish and make stuff, "purty "again.

I'm gonna be installing my third ExedraMax V-rated rear radial on mine soon, I have had no issues at all. I also run the V-rated Excedra radial on the front with no issues. I got 15,000 miles on the first one, happy riding!

 

[RockOn]

I'm gonna be installing my third ExedraMax V-rated rear radial on mine soon, I have had no issues at all. I also run the V-rated Excedra radial on the front with no issues. I got 15,000 miles on the first one, happy riding!

Well, that is good news, for a change. By the way, I see you are in Iowa. I was born in Belmond, IA ......73 years ago as of July 29th.

 

[pica]

Well, that is good news, for a change. By the way, I see you are in Iowa. I was born in Belmond, IA ......73 years ago as of July 29th.

How funny... same day and month here, I'll be 50 next week

 

[Tripps]

How funny... same day and month here, I'll be 50 next week

Young whippersnapper

 

[RockOn]

I should have told you about that "Gords" aluminum polish I bought, looked all over you tube for an easier way of polishing the wheels, do a search and check it out, I saw one guy tested a few compounds, he determined mother's chrome polish the best, spent a few hours I forget how many for a couple days on 1 truck wheel, it looked painful. But I'm waiting till I have time to do the back break's and polish the back rim at least to see how it works, I bookmarked your post and let you know how it turns out

I went to Gord web site, they wanted $19.95 for 16 oz. and 9 bucks shipping, sheesh. Went to Amazon, same price but only $5.99 shipping, yeehaw, but it appears to be shipped by mule train because it will be a week or so before I get it.

 

[RockOn]

Anyone know how I should torque the fill plug on the bevel box? Over the years I have seen several horror stories here on the forums about busting the bevel box case by too much torque on the drain plug and fill plug. After searching I can't find those conversations now but know there is a much lesser torque value recommended by some folks. I converted the drain plug spec of 15 Nm to 132 in lbs. and that seemed reasonable, but holy cow.....60 Nm for the fill plug converts to 44 ft. lbs. ! As reasonably tight as I could get the plug with my elbow torque-o-meter equated to 30 ft. lbs. No way do I have the cojones to go tighter than that. Also, there is no mention of O rings or crush washer for these bevel box pugs in my service manual that I have seen. My drain plug has a very thin crush washer and the fill plug has no washer or rubber O ring of any kind. Is this the norm? Thanks in advance.

Oh, forgot to mention , I unbolted the bevel box from the swing arm and everything was well greased, no sign of that nasty rust colored moly I have seen over the years on the forum. I will clean it up and apply fresh moly.

 

[Wdugan9080]

I went to Gord web site, they wanted $19.95 for 16 oz. and 9 bucks shipping, sheesh. Went to Amazon, same price but only $5.99 shipping, yeehaw, but it appears to be shipped by mule train because it will be a week or so before I get it.

You don't have prime, I by everything on Amazon except food, check out the Bluetooth Helmet headphones like $25, hope the Gords works for ya

 

[TURBO200R4]

Anyone know how I should torque the fill plug on the bevel box? Over the years I have seen several horror stories here on the forums about busting the bevel box case by too much torque on the drain plug and fill plug. After searching I can't find those conversations now but know there is a much lesser torque value recommended by some folks. I converted the drain plug spec of 15 Nm to 132 in lbs. and that seemed reasonable, but holy cow.....60 Nm for the fill plug converts to 44 ft. lbs. ! As reasonably tight as I could get the plug with my elbow torque-o-meter equated to 30 ft. lbs. No way do I have the cojones to go tighter than that. Also, there is no mention of O rings or crush washer for these bevel box pugs in my service manual that I have seen. My drain plug has a very thin crush washer and the fill plug has no washer or rubber O ring of any kind. Is this the norm? Thanks in advance.

Oh, forgot to mention , I unbolted the bevel box from the swing arm and everything was well greased, no sign of that nasty rust colored moly I have seen over the years on the forum. I will clean it up and apply fresh moly.

I do not have torque specs at this time
U want it just tight enough that it wont fall out. I put a box wrench on it and place three fingers and thumb near the plug and tighten.
On the fill plug i would say a little less than a spark plug torque and if u dont know that u need the torque wrench.
Ps just because it gives u a certain torque if it fells tight let it go at that.

 

[Wdugan9080]

Anyone know how I should torque the fill plug on the bevel box? Over the years I have seen several horror stories here on the forums about busting the bevel box case by too much torque on the drain plug and fill plug. After searching I can't find those conversations now but know there is a much lesser torque value recommended by some folks. I converted the drain plug spec of 15 Nm to 132 in lbs. and that seemed reasonable, but holy cow.....60 Nm for the fill plug converts to 44 ft. lbs. ! As reasonably tight as I could get the plug with my elbow torque-o-meter equated to 30 ft. lbs. No way do I have the cojones to go tighter than that. Also, there is no mention of O rings or crush washer for these bevel box pugs in my service manual that I have seen. My drain plug has a very thin crush washer and the fill plug has no washer or rubber O ring of any kind. Is this the norm? Thanks in advance.

Oh, forgot to mention , I unbolted the bevel box from the swing arm and everything was well greased, no sign of that nasty rust colored moly I have seen over the years on the forum. I will clean it up and apply fresh moly.

I forget what my plugs had I think it was a o-ring in the flat face of the plug shoulder, I don't know if the manual is going to send I'm a nubie so hopefully you get it section 6.4 final drive unit, drain plug 15nm. Fill plug 60nm. I think my torque wrench didn't go quite that high, but I torqued it as high as my ft.lb wrench would go, it was off by like 5 ft.lb. so I left it at that hasn't fell off in the past 3 or 4 ride's GL the file says 2005 to 2008, I forget what you have, but I just bought a digital manual with a CD on line and print the page's I'm working with but I hope this helps, this maybe the one I got here I think from ldk or IDK he's got it in his signature, and a lot of other good info, wiring diagrams and other stuff, GL