Rear brake fail

motolink said:

After about 25000km my back brake would get real soft and spongy, bleeding would fix for a short while, eventually I purchased a expensive brake bleeder and that has fixed my problems.

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Which brake bleeder did you get?

How do you handle the communication with the internal controller?

I have in the back of my mind that since ABS you can't do bleeding without communicating with the bike...

Kevin, this is the brake bleeder I used, I think I paid $50 AUD at the time.

teraeric said:

my rear does this now after sitting (bike does that alot these days,,,)... i pump it a bunch of times and it stiffens up... if i used the rear brake much it would worry me more...

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The problem is that one time, you’ll go to pump it and there’s nothing there at all. And if you mainly use the front, the time you’re going for the rear as well is likely to be a moment when you really need it.

Wonder if Triumph used the same rear brake master cylinder as the XDiavel. A brembo, I think.
This is a continuing issue with that bike, rear brake goes away.

Stoppies...no rear required...you're welcome

Daytonastar said:

Brake pedal went to the floor around 1500 miles. Had it bled and it’s just done the same thing at 2800 miles.
Triumph just say take it back and get it bled again, but I don’t think that’s (anywhere near) good enough.

Anyone else with this Issue?

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Yes mine went at around 500 miles, i bleed it the first time now its gone again.... I can just about use it and its now booked in for end of month. As you say it isnt good enough....

This what the service manual says, no mention of abs pump:

Rear Brake Caliper Bleed
1. Remove the rubber cap from the caliper bleed screw.
2. Attach a transparent tube to the bleed screw.
3. Place the other end of the tube in a suitable container containing new brake fluid.

The bleed screw should only be opened by a small angle, just enough to allow system
pressure to drop. When pulling the brake lever or pushing the caliper pistons in, some
resistance should be felt indicating that the screw is not opened too much.

4. Slowly apply and slowly release pressure to the brake pedal five times, maintaining pressure
on the final application.
5. Counter hold the brake hose union bolt and open the bleed screw slightly to allow fluid to flow
out but to still feel resistance in the brake pedal.
6. Close the bleed screw.
7. Slowly apply and slowly release pressure to the brake pedal five times, maintaining pressure
on the final application.
8. Counter hold the brake hose union bolt and open the bleed screw slightly to allow fluid to flow
out but to still feel resistance in the brake pedal.
9. Leave the bleed screw slightly open and slowly release the brake pedal.
10. Slowly apply and slowly release pressure to the brake lever five times.
11. Close the bleed screw.
12. Repeat steps 4 to 11 until no more air appears in the bleed tube/container.
13. With the brake lever still applied tighten the bleed screw to 6 Nm.
14. Fill the reservoir to the upper level with new DOT 4 fluid.
15. Remove the transparent bleed tube.

And if that doesnt work there is this, which is interesting:

Additional Bleeding (if required)
1. Remove the rear wheel (see Rear Wheel - Removal).
2. Remove the rear caliper fixings and move the caliper 10º anticlockwise on the brake disc.
3. Remove the cap from the rear bleed screw.
4. Attach a transparent tube to the bleed screw.
5. Place the other end of the tube in a suitable receptacle containing new brake fluid.
6. Slowly apply and slowly release pressure to the brake pedal five times, maintaining pressure
on the final application.
7. Partially open and close the caliper bleed screw slightly.
8. Repeat steps 6 to 7.
9. Slowly apply and slowly release pressure to the brake pedal five times, maintaining pressure
on the final application.
10. Open the bleed screw slightly to allow fluid to flow out but to still feel resistance in the brake
pedal.
11. Leave the bleed screw slightly open and slowly release the brake pedal.
12. Slowly apply and slowly release pressure to the brake pedal five times, closing the bleed
screw on the final application.
13. Repeat steps 7 to 13 until no more air appears in the bleed tube.
14. When all air has been expelled from the system, apply pressure to the brake pedal and close
the bleed screw and tighten it to 6 Nm.
15. Remove the bleed tube.

Daytonastar said:

Brake pedal went to the floor around 1500 miles. Had it bled and it’s just done the same thing at 2800 miles.
Triumph just say take it back and get it bled again, but I don’t think that’s (anywhere near) good enough.

Anyone else with this Issue?

Click to expand...

I have a 2012 R3R. My rear brake failed catastrophically and I had to do a low speed lay down. So once the brake is fixed it's going to be a fire sale. In not riding it again.
can't get a buyer with brakes, doubt I'll get a buyer without them.
Hope it works out for you.

JRock said:

Wonder if Triumph used the same rear brake master cylinder as the XDiavel. A brembo, I think.
This is a continuing issue with that bike, rear brake goes away.

Click to expand...

I had an Xdiavel S before my R3GT and yes I had problems with the rear brake, but it was an easy fix. That calliper is mounted under the disc, it needed un bolting and inverting onto the top of the disc for bleeding , undo the bleed and pumping some fluid through would get rid of most of the air. But a final squeeze of the Caliper on the disc before nipping the bleed would do the trick.
Never had any further problems from that point.
Some owners were leaving the back brake loaded overnight and that also seemed to work for some, worth a go.