R3T derestricting

YouTube

I followed this video with a few changes

I first loaded the existing map on the bike "ECU/ReadMap" then saved it as a my existing map.
I then went to "file/open map" and opened the map that Wayne provided.
The only thing I changed was lower the temperature that the fan kicked on like in the video.

I then loaded the Wayne map to the bike "ECU/Download"...

I then followed the instructions to reset the TPS that was on the video...

I did find that the headlamp was tied to the ECU, so I connected the battery to a full charger, not a battery tender, before starting the process.
 
Hmm, I have a 2010 Touring, I pulled the headlight fuse no prob, it wasn't tied to the ECU...(But the bike won't start with it out)
 
Corrected

I stand corrected... I don't know if it is tied to the ECU, but it wouldn't start and I believed the bike need to start to finish the process... Wayne had recommended a full type charger to keep the voltage up.
 
From what I understand, if the voltage drops too low during the uploading of the MAP, it will stop, and then you end up with a partial tune. I didn't pull my fuse, but hooked up a battery charger and it kept the battery voltage around 12.3 volts throughout the whole thing. I used the 10 amp setting on the charger.

bob
 
Wayne, sent you a pm on my results with tune (much stronger pull but some decel popping) just wondering when you think the headers for the touring might be ready?
 


Wayne has the O2 box checked in his R3T tune so leave it. The reason to pull the headlight fuse is that when reading the tune in your ECU, it can take a while and discharge the battery. After reading the tune, I replaced the headlight fuse to I could turn the engine on to reset adaptives but it was on a battery tender throughout. I probably could have replaced the fuse after downloading the tune but I read someone say it wouldn't download with the fuse in. Since it was my first use of TuneECU I put the fuse back in. Downloads take much less time than uploads. After you download a new tune, you toggle the ignition off then on, then hit reset adaptations. This brings it to factory default. I always used to do just this with Tuneboy on the Rocket and didn't notice any problems. However, the TuneECU manual says to hit the reset, the turn the engine on, not touching the throttle, to do the 12 minute tune, which takes about 20-30 min including waiting for the fan to come on. This supposedly adapts the idle to a warm engine.
 
Laraza - Thanks. I am glad it works well for you. Some exhaust systems will pop on deceleration no matter what, and all injectors vary greatly in flow at low duty cycles. You can try adding or reducing fuel in all three L tables in the 220hpa-424hpa columns. Try 3% at a time.

Kmutt - YES, the O2 sensor is active for a reason. If you look at the AFR table, the narrow-band sensor is really only active at cruise, and not idle/off-idle (settings are out of the sensor's range elsewhere). This way we get good fuel economy with a wide range of R3T models with varying injector flow rates at low duty cycles.

You really want to clear the adaptive trims by disconnecting a lead on the battery for 30 seconds. Then load the new calibration (tune). Next, fire up the bike, and perform a 12 minute tune-up to force new idle adaptions. A 50+ mile ride will set new adaptions for cruise.
 
Thank you very much fellas! I feel much better about this now.........will let ya know how I make out with the new tune and such

mutt
 

So do you do this rather than reset adaptives on tuneecu? do you still get a green light on the tps box if you do it this way?
 


Hi Wayne

Have you ever done the same for a stock Roadster and remapped it. I would think there is a cople of more horses lurking inside there somewhere.

Cheers
 
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