R3T derestricting

[stephantmi]

YouTube

I followed this video with a few changes

I first loaded the existing map on the bike "ECU/ReadMap" then saved it as a my existing map.
I then went to "file/open map" and opened the map that Wayne provided.
The only thing I changed was lower the temperature that the fan kicked on like in the video.

I then loaded the Wayne map to the bike "ECU/Download"...

I then followed the instructions to reset the TPS that was on the video...

I did find that the headlamp was tied to the ECU, so I connected the battery to a full charger, not a battery tender, before starting the process.

 

[Tripps]

Hmm, I have a 2010 Touring, I pulled the headlight fuse no prob, it wasn't tied to the ECU...(But the bike won't start with it out)

 

[stephantmi]

Corrected

I stand corrected... I don't know if it is tied to the ECU, but it wouldn't start and I believed the bike need to start to finish the process... Wayne had recommended a full type charger to keep the voltage up.

 

[Bob R]

From what I understand, if the voltage drops too low during the uploading of the MAP, it will stop, and then you end up with a partial tune. I didn't pull my fuse, but hooked up a battery charger and it kept the battery voltage around 12.3 volts throughout the whole thing. I used the 10 amp setting on the charger.

bob

 

[laraza]

Wayne, sent you a pm on my results with tune (much stronger pull but some decel popping) just wondering when you think the headers for the touring might be ready?

 

[dougl]

So I got the cable, downloaded and installed software and drivers.....I am now ready to connect and flash this tune to the ECU.......questions......
Do I uncheck or leave checked the O2 box?
I am running stock with nothing else but a GIPro which is turned off and has become an expensive gear indicator

Next question...........
After downloading tune........Do I reset adaptives first then reset the TPS or other around or does it not matter?

Do I need to pull the headlight fuse on the R3T? Thought I read somewhere that you cant because it ties into the ECU...not sure though

And finally.......it seems I have been reading and it appears that it is not necessary to do a 12 minute tune.(when using reset adaptives)...true or not?

So If I have this right.......Download tune....reset TPS.....reset adaptives......start bike and ride!!!! Sound right?

Thanks

mutt

Wayne has the O2 box checked in his R3T tune so leave it. The reason to pull the headlight fuse is that when reading the tune in your ECU, it can take a while and discharge the battery. After reading the tune, I replaced the headlight fuse to I could turn the engine on to reset adaptives but it was on a battery tender throughout. I probably could have replaced the fuse after downloading the tune but I read someone say it wouldn't download with the fuse in. Since it was my first use of TuneECU I put the fuse back in. Downloads take much less time than uploads. After you download a new tune, you toggle the ignition off then on, then hit reset adaptations. This brings it to factory default. I always used to do just this with Tuneboy on the Rocket and didn't notice any problems. However, the TuneECU manual says to hit the reset, the turn the engine on, not touching the throttle, to do the 12 minute tune, which takes about 20-30 min including waiting for the fan to come on. This supposedly adapts the idle to a warm engine.

 

[Power-Tripp]

Laraza - Thanks. I am glad it works well for you. Some exhaust systems will pop on deceleration no matter what, and all injectors vary greatly in flow at low duty cycles. You can try adding or reducing fuel in all three L tables in the 220hpa-424hpa columns. Try 3% at a time.

Kmutt - YES, the O2 sensor is active for a reason. If you look at the AFR table, the narrow-band sensor is really only active at cruise, and not idle/off-idle (settings are out of the sensor's range elsewhere). This way we get good fuel economy with a wide range of R3T models with varying injector flow rates at low duty cycles.

You really want to clear the adaptive trims by disconnecting a lead on the battery for 30 seconds. Then load the new calibration (tune). Next, fire up the bike, and perform a 12 minute tune-up to force new idle adaptions. A 50+ mile ride will set new adaptions for cruise.

 

[Kmutt]

Thank you very much fellas! I feel much better about this now.........will let ya know how I make out with the new tune and such

mutt

 

[laraza]

You really want to clear the adaptive trims by disconnecting a lead on the battery for 30 seconds. Then load the new calibration (tune). Next, fire up the bike, and perform a 12 minute tune-up to force new idle adaptions. A 50+ mile ride will set new adaptions for cruise.

So do you do this rather than reset adaptives on tuneecu? do you still get a green light on the tps box if you do it this way?

 

[nox273]

Ladies and gents,
I have had more than a few calls about Touring model performance. This should help out more than a few of you.

The Touring models are the same except for the exhaust and ECU calibration. BOTH are very restricted.The ECU controls the secondary throttles and actually closes them at higher rpm and higher gears. In the exhaust, the header is the same, but the box after the header is very restrictive. Slip-ons (TORS and D&D) really don't do much except for sound.

Neither do air filters under the seat. Triple K&N RU-2780 filters make a bit more from 4000-5500 rpm, but have the same peak power output as the stock air filter. The stock intake plenum and ducting actually makes more torque under 3000 rpm than triple RU-2780 filters under the bearclaw. It is not until you go to a full exhaust system that the RU-2780 filters make a difference.

A stock R3T or one with a slip-on exhaust tends to make ~86 hp on my dyno (~ 13% lower than a Dynojet), and 130-131 ft-lb of torque. Simply re-calibrating the ECU (mapping) tends to result in 115-117 hp, and 140-142 ft-lb of torque. A very nice improvement.

Attached is a "tune" for stock and slip-on exhaust R3T models, as well as a graph of output differences. Dashed lines are torque. Red is an R3T with TORS and stock air filter. Yellow is after tuning. This resulted in 43+ mpg cruising at 70 mph on 87 octane fuel. Speedo corrected for stock tire. Speed limiter raised. Ignition timing improved in lower gears. ENJOY!

You can also find this map on Tom Hamburg's TuneECU.com site under the custom Triumph tunes section.

Hi Wayne

Have you ever done the same for a stock Roadster and remapped it. I would think there is a cople of more horses lurking inside there somewhere.

Cheers