Question for Frank

Trip to the Dyno

Spent 4 hrs on the dyno today working on the tune for my bike.
DISCLAIMER:
1. There are no places within 200 miles that tune anything but PC.
2. There is only one place within 200 miles that would let ME tune the bike on their dyno.
3. I am not a professional tuner. I only know what I have read and learned tuning my bikes.
4. This tune was created at an altitude of around 1800 ft above sea level to be run mainly at an altitude of around 4700 ft above sea level.
5. Max runs in 4th gear.
6. Economy runs in 4th & 5th gear.
7. It's not a perfect tune but the bike runs ALOT better now then it did before.
8. Use at your own risk

ok

Since I had to dyno the bike at a lower altitude I tuned for a 13-13.2 A/F range on the fuel maps. This should (read guesstimate) drop the A/F to around 12.7-12.9 at the altitude where I live.

I tuned 70-100% throttle for power (using the 13-13.2) and everything below that for a more fuel economy ride (13.6-14.3).

The numbers I got off this map are:
141.8 RWHp
154.7 RWTq

These are a little low for this setup compared to others, but I expected it because I tuned it lean at a lower altitude. The A/F numbers are still safe to run at lower altitudes, but will not have the max power output.


I'll attach the map to this post and then scan the results of the last run on my other computer and attach them to another post.

Trip to the Dyno cont.

Here are the scans of the results.

any help with the next dyno would be greatly appreciated.

Talking to my tuner in Wisconson. (He moved) I'll get you a copy of my tune sent your way. You should be able to just load it and go.
What I would like for you to do is to go to the Dyno shop, remove your Bearclaw and do a couple of pulls with your tune. (2 screws) take the tools with you.
See if your tune goes lean or you gain a bunch. Then drop in my tune and see what happens. Make sure you save your tune just in case your bike doesn't like my tune.
I think your bike will like it.lol Bruce has done a lot of dyno work to get to this point.
Your HP should be over 150 and your torque should be near 160 and should hang on longer. Yours is falling off fast.
The ecu should handle the altitude changes. I don't hink you need to tune for that.
I'm currently running the next size larger filters. (3/4 " taller). To get the power I have, you might need to trim your BC. Looks good and I think it really helps the bike breathe.
Anyway, after you have my tune loaded and do a couple of pulls without the BC, then reinstall and see the difference. I'm curious how much difference it makes. You need to get your air temp sensor mounted in the end of your filters like the pic of mine. This will give it a more accurate reading of the actual air being pulled thru. Yours is sitting in a filter with hot dead air.
Again my tune is showing 156RWHP and 161 torque. Big difference.
Later

I am planing on installing my jardines and 3 k&n's on Monday. I am scheduled for dyno on Friday. I'm contemplating loading the 20355 KN TORS.hex in the bike for a base tune. I live in Jacksonville Fl. Does elevation matter on a fuel injected bike? Any opinions on if that tune is a good starting point, if there is a better option would be greatly appreciated.

Did you figure out what's causing the AF ratio lean spike in 5th gear between approx. 4400 and 5400 rpm? If you recall, we exchanged posts where you found the same issue on your bike as I have on mine, where the AF is stable in 4th gear, but spikes lean in 5th. I haven't been able to figure it out yet. Backed off the timing a couple of degfrees in case it's detonation, but didn't solve it. Any help would be appreciated.

Been comparing tunes for the R3R. My stock tune that came on the bike and the tors tune from the TuneECU site seem a little off on the I tables. The stock tune from 15-100 TP on the I tables have a lot more timing advance on them. Could this be a difference on the newer roadsters?

So I've been running the tune I posted above and it just isn't running right for normal riding (way too rich with hesitations in throttle response). So after looking at all the maps (stock, Tors, & my Dyno) I have made a new map to try out until I get a copy of Franks map.

Here is what I did:
Used the 0-10 TP from the I4 table of the Tors map. (same or a little more advance than stock map)
Used the 15-100 TP from the I4 table of the stock map (on I1-4).
Used the L tables from the Tors map (to lean out the lower TP).
Used the 0-70 TP from the F tables of the Tors map (to lean out the lower TP).
Used the 78-100 TP from the F tables of my dyno map (cause I know they are not too rich or lean)

Once I run it for a few days I'll report back on how it does.


Frank - Did Bruce start with your stock map or did you load a map prior to him dynoing it? If so, which map did you start with?

New map is running better, but not up to where I think it should be. no more hesitation in the throttle. seems to run smoother around town. haven't had a chance to take it on any long trips yet, but have one this weekend.

Not sure if I'm just getting use to the bike or what, but ever since the upgrades it just doesn't feel as strong .... push you back into your seat kinda feel. it still goes 0-100 mph in nothing flat. Just feels different.

Any suggestions from you pro's out there are greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!

Broke down and bought the PCV & Auto Tune for it. Found it in stock and on sale for $470 shipped for the set. Should be in on Tuesday. At least this way I can have it tuned basically anywhere.

Frank - after I ordered it I saw the post from 15 Apr and you had already installed this. Don't know how I missed that one . If you get a chance, would you send me that PCV/AT map also?

Duck,

here is the map:

You needd to have your bike tuned and just add the PCV with a zero % tune. Then add the auto tune and it will go to work. You'll be able to see the changes its making all through the throttle range. If your dyno guy isn't a whiz, they're guessing at everything except WOT. My PCV with AT just showed some minor changes and also showed where I richened it to stop the decel popping. Bruce did one hell of a tune on my bike.

I have sent him the PCV and AT for him to see if I need any adjustments to my tune.
I'll be getting back to some of you in the near future.

Again, load a blank tune in the PCV and set your desired A/F ratios in the map for the AT to seek out. It'll do it's job. After a bit of riding, you can pull it up with a laptop and see the changes it is making.
Good luck.