Progressive 444 were

If I may offer a suggestion! If your still in Thailand Change the front tire. If you have a meztler on it they are good in a burn pile :) Drop the 140 and ride it so you can judge what you want to do. Its like night and day just with the tire change. Springs are great in the front but if you have a chance to add any adjustable high speed dampening I highly recommend it over just a spring change!!!! I ride on roads now I would have avoided before just to save my kidneys. Oh that and ever since I wrecked my 05 in Siberia oops I mean Canada where I broke my back in six places it has not been as kipper :D
 
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I can't imagine the suspension improvement of new rear shocks. I've got my stock shocks maxed out to help with my 340 lb body weight on the bike. It's an upgrade I want to make ( rear shocks). But it may be awhile. Does Hagon make them for big boys like me. I would like to drop 100 pounds but until then do they make anything to smoothen up the ride?
 
I can't imagine the suspension improvement of new rear shocks. I've got my stock shocks maxed out to help with my 340 lb body weight on the bike. It's an upgrade I want to make ( rear shocks). But it may be awhile. Does Hagon make them for big boys like me. I would like to drop 100 pounds but until then do they make anything to smoothen up the ride?
Hagon and since your in the USA (I'm sure other places also even out of the USA) YSS with adjustable length although only about 10 mm adjustment. build the shocks to the weight of the rider or riders or if you skinny like me (about the weight of a rear rocket wheel) as close as they can get. It seems if you heavier there is more choices. Anyway I bout a used set of the YSS and well the two different length set of hagons I have are collecting dust on the shelf!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
ISprings are great in the front but if you have a chance to add any adjustable high speed dampening I highly recommend it over just a spring change!!!!
AMEN!

The improved springs WILL give more suspension travel - so then decent damping can actually work. But the stock hydraulics are shyte.

As stock the forks SAG about twice as far as they should (just under its own weight) Add some (not so fatso) meat and they are basically operating in the anti-bottom-out ultra stiff damping zone.

For we NOT SO FATTIES - there is maybe more to be gained by reducing the free air gap than over springing. Compliant at low compression but stiffens faster.

YSS I have on my Guzzi. OK but not THAT good ime. But old Guzzis have a serious unsprung vs sprung rear weight issue - The bevel box is HUGE for the power.
For asia/oz/nz there's also GAZI.

I also suggest FOURNALES - Air springs - a bit firm for some raised on cruisers maybe, but I love mine. 19bar of air is ruddy hard to compress - it is totally progressive.
 
AMEN!

The improved springs WILL give more suspension travel - so then decent damping can actually work. But the stock hydraulics are shyte.

As stock the forks SAG about twice as far as they should (just under its own weight) Add some (not so fatso) meat and they are basically operating in the anti-bottom-out ultra stiff damping zone.

For we NOT SO FATTIES - there is maybe more to be gained by reducing the free air gap than over springing. Compliant at low compression but stiffens faster.

YSS I have on my Guzzi. OK but not THAT good ime. But old Guzzis have a serious unsprung vs sprung rear weight issue - The bevel box is HUGE for the power.
For asia/oz/nz there's also GAZI.

I also suggest FOURNALES - Air springs - a bit firm for some raised on cruisers maybe, but I love mine. 19bar of air is ruddy hard to compress - it is totally progressive.
AMEN!

The improved springs WILL give more suspension travel - so then decent damping can actually work. But the stock hydraulics are shyte.

As stock the forks SAG about twice as far as they should (just under its own weight) Add some (not so fatso) meat and they are basically operating in the anti-bottom-out ultra stiff damping zone.

For we NOT SO FATTIES - there is maybe more to be gained by reducing the free air gap than over springing. Compliant at low compression but stiffens faster.

YSS I have on my Guzzi. OK but not THAT good ime. But old Guzzis have a serious unsprung vs sprung rear weight issue - The bevel box is HUGE for the power.
For asia/oz/nz there's also GAZI.

I also suggest FOURNALES - Air springs - a bit firm for some raised on cruisers maybe, but I love mine. 19bar of air is ruddy hard to compress - it is totally progressive.
To be fair to Hagon all the shocks I have are longer then stock and wirh the tire changes I did not need to worry about longer. Plus my new front end is shorter even though I have not done much with the adjustable spring compression. Do to not having many stones in my pockets. Being under 160 can suck on a big bike:(
 
Norm I just notice you have a touring so I am not the one to recommend front stuff since the forks are different.
I'm pretty happy with the front forks. There are 4" more suspension travel there than there was in the Road Glide. I'm not sure what would work. I had thought of trying Harleys Air shocks. My old neighbor had a set built for a husband a nd wife who were built like I am. But I'll probably just stick with stock for now. @1olbull I think runs 444s and likes them.
 
To be fair to Hagon all the shocks I have are longer then stock and wirh the tire changes I did not need to worry about longer. Plus my new front end is shorter even though I have not done much with the adjustable spring compression. Do to not having many stones in my pockets. Being under 160 can suck on a big bike:(
Scott - I have recently had some long and informative chats with Maxton and my local guy at DMX. I am 5'8" - 80-83kgs without gear and 31" inseem.

Both came out with the same advice - about 30kgs preload - static sag 20-25mm. Both suggested a 1kg/mm spring. Neither of them was too keen to suggest stronger springs (eg 1.2kg/mm), though they have them. Bigger folk may well need it. Maxton have revised the airgap from 170mm to 140mm tops. DMX suggested 120 or maybe even 110mm. DMX based this on ambient heat here. Maxton say that may well be right - local info counts. Blaine will know about your forks I'm sure.

I want to keep the current float at light acceleration or cruising - They're spot on silky smooth even thrashing down back lanes here - but want to kill off a bit of braking dive. Was also having some issues with the rebound being a bit odd - but seems I may have generated an air bubble in the valve/s. Now fine.

When Paul @Joesmoe asked me to look at the TD web for him and his "T" based on his weight the numbers were almost identical. iirc .95kg/mm and 35mm preload.
The T's can also use CARTRIDGE EMULATORS - though personally I think the optimum is a fully sealed/integrated system.

Was interested to read Nevs advise. - I've been doodling mentally and whilst I can see the faster tip into the bend - I think after a certain lean it may cause understeer. My gut says the discrepancy in tyre width F->R naffs up some geometry. Paper does not however trump experience.
 
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