Problem with Secondary Plates

[PhillyRoc]

Just got my 2007 standard beast back from Manyunk Triumph here in Philly. Found out my torque bearing pack that distributes power from the transmission to the shaft basically fell apart. Thank goodness the repair was covered under warranty $2300 repair. The problem I have now is that I am getting a engine code from the secondary tps. The mechanic Dave knows why I took out the plates but it seems that the secondary rod that holds the plates is slightly over rotating which is causing the engine light so it looks like i have to put them back. Just ordered the GIPro can't wait to see the difference off of the line. Anybody experience this situation or has a quick fix for the secondary problem. I would hate to go back in to put the plates back in or deal with the dreaded intake to the throttle bodies.

 

[biker1059]

If you don't have secondaries there will be no difference in perforance with the gipro

 

[tdragger]

If you can acquire the proper cable, you can use TuneECU to reset the secondary TPS and it should solve the problem.

 

[Macrider]

explain??

Biker 1059,
Can you explain your reasoning behind that when everyone else has said they have gotten excellent gains from using a Gipro without secondarys?
Now I,m confused.

 

[PhillyRoc]

Biker 1059,
Can you explain your reasoning behind that when everyone else has said they have gotten excellent gains from using a Gipro without secondarys?
Now I,m confused.

I don't know what 1059 is talking about, I have used it on sport bikes and i know it makes a difference in performance in the first 3 gears. My only question is if I put the secondary plates back how much am I losing when in put on the GIPro. Tune Ecu sounds good but I plan to go with the PCIII and the triples and get a dyno tune during the winter.

 

[HellFire]

The secondary removal in conjunction with the GiPro improves the throttle response. The GiPro will still improve the power in 1st-3rd, you just won't have the snappy reaction from throttle inputs. Still, there has to be some way of taking care of your problem without reinstalling the plates. No one else seems to have had the same problem you are having with the check engine light and codes. I was thinking that if the primary TPS rod is adjustable, then wouldn't the secondary one be adjustable as well? If it's just a matter of the rod turning too far that is setting the code, what about just adjusting it so that it doesn't set a code? The whole rod and plate thing is serving no other purpose since the plates are gone, so it wouldn't hurt anything to adjust the linkage to adjust the rod right?

I think I'd start there rather than reinstalling the plates. Do you have any way of resetting the code, like an OBDII interrogator? If nothing else, I'd adjust the linkage so the rod doesn't turn so far, reset the code and see if it sets again. If it does, keep adjusting the linkage shorter and resetting the code till it stops. Getting into the ECM with TuneECU or Tuneboy would allow you to read the TPS values, but I don't see how that will help since the values are probably right and it's just the linkage turning the rod too far?

I don't know for sure what to tell you to do to fix this, I didn't have the problem occur when I removed them. My suggestions are just that, suggestions from me trying to picture the problem in my head. Hopefully there will be others with more ideas come along here.

I was also thinking ... if the TPS was using the plates as a stop and removing them has allowed the rod to over rotate ... what is supposed to be the stop? Making adjustments so that the rod stops rotating where it's supposed to stop should fix the problem. Sound right to you?

 

[PhillyRoc]

I do havan OBD II reader that will allow me to erase the code, I just hate the idea of removing the ductwork again to make any adjustments unless i am putting on the K&n filters for good with the pc3. I do know that everything else on the bike is running strong so could just run with the engine light on.

 

[HellFire]

It won't hurt anything other than your eyes running with the check engine light on.
I wonder if you can get to the linkages with only having to remove the bearclaw.

 

[tdragger]

Assuming that you have access to a laptop computer, the investment in TuneECU is only the $20 cable. You can reset the Secondary TPS which will cycle the secondary rod and set the limits, thus clearing the code. No need to reinstall the plates. You don't touch the ECU programming at all. You are just running a system test.

This does not preclude you from following up with your plans for the PCIII and dyno tune.

 

[HellFire]

Assuming that you have access to a laptop computer, the investment in TuneECU is only the $20 cable. You can reset the Secondary TPS which will cycle the secondary rod and set the limits, thus clearing the code. No need to reinstall the plates. You don't touch the ECU programming at all. You are just running a system test.

This does not preclude you from following up with your plans for the PCIII and dyno tune.

I like this idea the best ... and having that cable around is about a necessity anymore anyway.