Possible tps issue?

Just a theory. For those with the dreaded sudden 2000 rpm idle or erratic idle problem. After confirming that my malady would be fixed by disconnecting the idle stepper motor, today, I got to take the linkage off. Cut the cotter pin took the two little washers off. Taking the linkage off was difficult and revealed a very gummy linkage mechanism. The only way to lube this is to disassemble, clean well and dry lube the carrying shaft on the throttle body. I think the efforts to lube this area with stuff made the problem even worse by attracting dirt. To get it out one must remove the idle motor nut also. To the sudden idle surge sufferers, one more thing to try. Perhaps the motor has a voltage to check and make sure it is the motor before you trash or change it.


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After having this issue for awhile, I changed both the TPS and THE Stepper motor this seemed to fixed the problem went for a fairly long ride with some other R3 owners and it was all good. have done about 2000k's since and went for a ride the other day riding pretty hard through he full rev range, then this started to happen again. when I would go to pull up or go around a corner the revs would stay on 3000rpm. So i pull over turn the bike off and start it again rev's all good took off changed gear at about 3500rpm let go of the throttle and it stuck on MMMMM, anyway i reach down the the stepper motor finger on the nut and pull it back sure enough the revs drop and as soon as i let it go the rev's go back up. So i think this option of disconnecting the step is the remedy. not going to pay another 300$ for another, and know that when i come to a tight corner the bike will slow down when i wind the throttle back.



PS all the settings in ECU were good TPS .60 Stepper .72
 

Yep; disconnect the dam thing. If it don't idle high enough (900 to 950 rpm) adjust the main idle screw just in front of the secondary tps. Tricky to break the factory yellow seal. You can take the linkage arm out and clean the shaft it mounts on. Claw and filters off, cotter pin off, idle motor nut off (keep the little washers, bushing and spring). I am pretty sure this whole issue is like Sonny says "In simple layman's term the **** thing gets dirty and don't work." My secondary butterflies were taken off by Rob. Just make sure you don't drop them into your air intakes.

The issue is if you disconnect the motor you will have a check engine light. I took the linkage arm off the reconnected the motor. Will ride it today to see if the light goes out. If it don't will connect TuneECU and erase the codes that are probably there. Once this is done I should be well. I think you should be too.
 
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Yes leave it connected without linkage. You will have no issues with check engine light or idle. Start on cold mornings require a little throttle but that's it. After engine warms up it is fine. I like to let my bike warm up before taken off anyhow. A lot of talk about oil on here but if you do not let your bike warm up the oil doesn't flow right. No matter what brand you use.
 

I idle about 1 minute before I put it in gear. Then, have a 1/4 mile slow taxi to where I have to throttle the bike. Then take it very easy for a mile or two. By then it's plenty warm.

Right now the bike is idling tad bellow 1k rpm when hot. It goes from neutral to 1rst Ok. Its climbing to 6500 rpm easy and begging for more. Ready for some hills.
 
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