They are not the same Tripps. That is my point. For those of us who are challenged at the workbench with lack of tools, poor light and no brains, disconnecting the idle stepper and adjusting the main idle screw is the only fix. Da'hell with the check engine light.
This is like opening up PCs... their malfunctions are directly proportional to how many times you open them up, even if it is to dust them off.
Why not screw the stepper motor nut all the way IN. The motor will travel down all the way trying to make the bike idle without touching the linkage to the idle rack. Raise the mail idle a little to 950 when the bike is hot and that takes the whole idle control set up out of the game. Will that work?
Chews guys. Plenty to try. I'm off work for 2 days tomorrow so I'll try unplugging the iscv as a test. If that solves the problem I'll see if I can replace it as soon as I can but for the time being at least I'll be able to use the thing. Getting bored of my car now.
You are all like a fountain of knowledge and it's all appreciated.
I just figured out how to remove the "linkage" in a reversible simple way. Remove the bottom nut on the motor, remover the cotter pin in the pivot bolt and just pull out the linkage. Remove the secondary butterflies.
Claviger.... would this work in my case, remove the linkage and reconnect the idle stepper motor, would it be OK? Check off any codes with TuneECU and be happy thereafter?
Figured out a plan B. Remove the cotter pin and the bottom nut on the motor and the Linkage comes right out. Leave the motor on and connected. What'a you think?