One crank.

[Titanium]

Chasing an issue for a while that has me Scratching my head.
Just over a month ago it dipped down to 19° and I was out somewhere and stopped for a couple of hours. Came out and crank the bike over and got 1 crank and it was like to ignition was turned off. It came back on so tried again and it happened again. No matter what it would not start until I had it jumped off.
Next day after being on trickle charger all night I tested everything and battery failed the load test so replaced and cleaned up all the connections.
2 days ago it was 9° but with a wind chill of -4 and went out and stopped for about 2 hrs this time.(new battery been on tender, bike in heated basement.) Come out to start her and new battery is doing the same thing.
Battery is testing good and all connections I can find have been cleaned.
Anybody had this happen and fixed it or know of any issues like this.
Again just 1 crank then the ignition cuts off then comes on as if you cycled the ignition switch while cranking.
Thank you and Happy Holidays.

 

[Dr.D]

Your bike is telling you that 9 degrees is to cold to ride. Other than that I got nothing.

 

[Gregger]

Normally when you get an initial crank then nothing, you'd check for a loose connection typically at the battery. You stated the connections are tight and your battery tests ok. Have you checked your ground to the block and the connection at the starter? Also if those are good you might want to check the internal contacts in the solenoid. Another failure mechanism is a bad connection internally in the battery (even a new one). This would show you proper voltage across the battery with no/low load and zero volts under high load. Just watch out that the battery doesn't explode if it is internally arcing.

When you stated the battery was good, how did you check it? Have you put a voltmeter on the battery to see what the voltage is when cranking and failing. To inspect a battery you need to check the voltage at rest and under load to confirm it's good. Under load it shouldn't drop below 9.6 volts at approximately 1/2 the rated CCAs of the battery over 10-15 seconds or so.

 

[MIG]

Normally when you get an initial crank then nothing, you'd check for a loose connection typically at the battery. You stated the connections are tight and your battery tests ok. Have you checked your ground to the block and the connection at the starter? Also if those are good you might want to check the internal contacts in the solenoid. Another failure mechanism is a bad connection internally in the battery (even a new one). This would show you proper voltage across the battery with no/low load and zero volts under high load. Just watch out that the battery doesn't explode if it is internally arcing.

When you stated the battery was good, how did you check it? Have you put a voltmeter on the battery to see what the voltage is when cranking and failing. To inspect a battery you need to check the voltage at rest and under load to confirm it's good. Under load it shouldn't drop below 9.6 volts at approximately 1/2 the rated CCAs of the battery over 10-15 seconds or so.

Good point. My Father-in-Law recently installed a new battery with a similar issue. It tested good on the bench (at rest) but failed under load. He only figured it out when he took the battery back and they tested it.
-MIG

 

[Whylee]

Also, is it a lead acid, agm or Lithium battery. If its lithium, you need to switch on the ignition and let it sit a couple minutes to wake up and warm up the battery.