I have used double gaskets (6 in total) on my Reband's with copper silicone smeared both sides of the gasket.
I have welded up the hole under the sheild boss and have a CES flange to solid mount the pipes but have not done this yet, leaving them lose makes fitting unessessarliy clumsy

How did you weld up the holes in the thread bosses? Only way I could see would be to cut off the bosses, weld up the holes and then replace the bosses? I would like to keep the heat shield such as it is. It does help a bit
 
The coating I got from performancecoatings.com out in Tacoma is fantastic. It's a bit thicker than others I've had done and is definitely darker black than others, their color, glacier black looks great!

Turn around time was two days lol. Hit me up, might be worth the shipping to have done once and done instead of annually.
 
Morris, when you go to weld the headers to the collector, firstly weld the three header pipes together so as to seal these to each other.
Bring the weld out around the outside of the three tubes as in the Dwg. below, this will allow your weld around the collector to meet up with the internal weld.

The important thing is to get a complete seal other wise you will get banging in the exhaust as you decelerate.
This is cold air being sucked into the exhaust system and exploding due to the hot exhaust gases.
Be fussy in this area.

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My ones fitted perfectly ...if anything the only thing I would have used to seal them would have been a smear of silicon .....I did take out the baffle and repack it as it was waaaaay too loud

@chandelierman What type of material and methods did you use to repack the baffle and did it reduce the db's? I attempted the same thing for the same reason and found there was so much packing in mine that it pretty much exploded out of the megaphone when I finally got the baffle to come loose. End result for me was a bunch of frustration, itching and a LOUDER pipe than I had.:(:banghead::banghead::banghead:
 
Hey Morris! Mine must be a little later model. The mounts for the alleged heat shield do not go through the tube. I read a post a while back that might have been from Tony @Mittzy about using 2 seals and high temp RTV. Works like a charm and gives ya a little bit of extra clearance where the pipes come around the back of the mill. WRT the collector I use hi-temp RTV and leave it over night before I crank it. Seems to last about as long as a rear tire does so I just do it over then. Keep us posted on the weld job if you go that route.
 
@chandelierman What type of material and methods did you use to repack the baffle and did it reduce the db's? I attempted the same thing for the same reason and found there was so much packing in mine that it pretty much exploded out of the megaphone when I finally got the baffle to come loose. End result for me was a bunch of frustration, itching and a LOUDER pipe than I had.:(:banghead::banghead::banghead:

I used this product ...it is bound with a thread that dissolves when hot so the wadding expands .... there wasn't much padding in it from the factory but I packed it to the brim so it made it a lot quieter ....I had a set of DP silencers fitted with a muffler bypass pipe and it was louder than my Reband
Motorcycle Exhaust Can Silencer Re Packing Wadding Sheet 450mm x 1m High Quality | eBay
 
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