Next Generation Key-Less System

[1olbull]

Sorry John - it was not practical to offer Beta to anyone outside of the US - that would have been prohibitive for dialogue and fixes which as it turned out, became necessary.
And the cost & time for overseas shipping both ways was just impractical.

So my apologies to any of our overseas friends (particularly some of the 'senior' members in Oz) if you weren't asked - it was purely the logistics of it.

I'm sad as heck and feel rejected!!

 

[cadconversions]

@DEcosse - any upgrade path for the existing users? I've just recently purchased some heated gear I hadn't planned to and the extra 3 channels on my PDM60 sounds nice for the future. Just curious - GREAT SYSTEM!!

 

[1olbull]

@DEcosse - any upgrade path for the existing users? I've just recently purchased some heated gear I hadn't planned to and the extra 3 channels on my PDM60 sounds nice for the future. Just curious - GREAT SYSTEM!!

Ken,
Ditto what my friend just wrote!
May I assume the total available amps remains the same and this just adds three additional circuits allowing more spread???

 

[DEcosse]

... I'm sad as heck and feel rejected!!

I hope that's not serious???
You really shouldn't feel "rejected" - all of the BETA testers came from initial inquiries made to me by those guys for a std relay system and if they were in the USA, I simply offered them the chance to test out the pilot system as an alternative.

@DEcosse - any upgrade path for the existing users? ...

... what my friend just wrote!

I know it 'sounds' like it should be simple - but sorry to say, it's really not.
Having been built as a previous gen system, it doesn't really lend itself to a 'retrofit'
Honestly, at this stage, the most practical - & frankly cheaper- route is to simply buy another PDM60 module, which will actually give you 6 more circuits rather than 3.
i.e. you would get more circuits for less money just by adding another PDM60.
Adding another PDM60 is the same at this point, as would be for a std key system or a Key-Less (and whether that was Relay or primary PDM60 version)

An add-on (second) PDM60 does not have to be integrated to the KeyLess controller, just wired up with the trigger input connected to any ignition-powered circuit
(The 'original' generation kits HAD to be because they were fundamentally integral to the Key-Less system as being used to actually switch the OEM functions and part of the control loop.)
Similarly any 'new' system will not require the PDM60 to be integrated either - just an add-on option which has zero relationship to the Key-Less itself, no more than a std key system would.
And those option in future will simply be std 'retail' packs (no connectors etc - just a sealed PDM60 package as per comes from the Manufacturer)
I will give preferred pricing on the PDM60 units to any of the members here and even a bit 'better' to guys like yourselves who already have a KeyLess system of any generation.
(Can't publish those prices - Rowe will cut me off if I offer publicly less than their official pricing)
Or you can buy it from any resource you choose and I'd be happy to offer some guidance.

But if only one more circuit (or even two) maybe just adding a relay is the most practical?
And recognize that you can certainly run more than one accessory off a single PDM60 output - for example I typically make one channel for general accessory at 6A so relatively low current loads (like USB, GPS etc) can be coupled together into the one output.

 

[WyldCFH]

My next gen system has finally been installed and tested. Thanks @DEcosse for speaking with me on a Sunday.

For those looking into getting this, I had 2 issues on my '16 R3R
1. I was stupid and didn't pay attention to the orientation of the barrel portion of the PosiTap.
a.Signals from the fob were being received, alarm led and turn signals flashed. But headlights and clocks would not sweep.
b. Quick email and response from Ken with a phone number to call him
c. Seems when I took the PosiTap completely apart, I inverted the barrel. Ken had this figured out in about 30 seconds
--- IF you take the PosiTap completely apart, there is a pointy end and a rounded end of the internal pin. Orange wire goes to the rounded end. Black/Orange wire gets the pointy end.

2. Not sure of the size of the original version, but the suggested placement of the black box would not allow for the fuel tank to lay back into position. I ended up pushing it as far under the V section of frame that connects to the steering neck. It takes some adjustment of the orientation as the box won't go up inside far enough until the wires are in the right places.
a. Once I pick up the triple K&Ns and remove the airbox ducting, this won't be an issue and a permanent mounting point can be found.


All in all, a great bit of kit with excellent support.

 

[Gearhead1969]

I got mine last Friday and installed it immediately. I finally got to ride it some on sunday and I am quite pleased! It is a slick set up and a good cure for the dreaded ignition switch failure, which is all too common on our bikes. DEcosse shipped my order quickly and provided excellent support during installation. I am very happy with the purchase.

 

[rocketjohn]

Got mine on order....this is gonna be so fun!

 

[1K9]

I just completed my latest revision of my Key-Less system - this one is now completely Solid-State with NO RELAYS and all in a single water-resistant enclosure.
I've been working on this revision for about 6 months now - I have 7 prototype versions out in the field, 5 of them on Rockets of various generations - 2 x Std/Classic models, 1 x 'early' Roadster and 2 x late model Roadster; also have one on a Street Triple and on my own Daytona/Speed Triple 955.
My great appreciation for those who participated in the Beta tests - they were not without a few bumps, with some early teething problems. But I ultimately got the bugs worked out and they are all working as intended right now.
(I won't publish the names of the testers myself, but they are welcome to chip in their comments as they wish, if they choose to make themselves known )
After solving the final piece of the puzzle, all of the units came back so I could mod them to the latest circuit design. I'm pleased to say all are working consistently at the latest specification.

But again - could not have done this without their help, so - you know who you are - THANK YOU!!!!

The features of this new one are:
1. Still Hands-free control - keep remote in pocket, nothing to press.
2. All Solid State design with Integrated Power and Control on a new PCB.
3. All now in a single enclosure, which is water resistant (essentially box is sealed)
4. Easy Installation - Two plug n play connectors and one Posi-Tap connection.

This is my new Control & Power Board:

The three large chips are the MOSFET Power Switches.
These are good for an amazing 32A EACH continuous with surge capacity to 135A - fully protected against short circuit. Note that the max current each circuit will actually see is ~ 10A continuous (on the early Std/Classic that is switching full headlight current).
These devices have incredibly low 'on resistance' and that means they dissipate incredibly low power even at high current operation. (I have tested at 15A continuous for over an hour and there was no discernible increase in temperature directly on the device)
Of course on the R3, even tge std/classic, they are running at a fraction of their spec'd capability.

The control circuit is the same design as that I have used in the previous generations utilizing Relays or the PDM60 - the output just drives the new Power Switches instead of those earlier devices. So that design is very well proven. The only difference is the physical layout on the printed circuit board is different, but the circuitry remains identical.

This is the finished revision of the board incorporating the mods that were worked out during the Beta Test phase. (So the final version got new artwork to incorporate the last set of changes). The upper half of the board (per the view sbown) is the control while the lower half in the foreground is the power switching stage.

And here it is installed in the box, along with the RFID Receiver (I purchase a commercial RFID receiver, which is more cost effective)

And the finished kit:
This one shows the 08+ Key-Switch connector; the system is identical for the 'early' Std/Classic models, just with a different connector.
Touring is also essentially the same with one subtle resistor addition specifically for those

I'm well pleased at how it turned out in the end.
This kit can easily be installed in an hour - and the majority of that is just in accessing under the tank

If anyone would like further information, please PM me
(I will not publish prices here)

Please also see these threads for information/endorsements on previous versions:

Decosse's keyless ignition

The BEST MOD ever

I have this system installed on my 2007 Classic. My favorite feature is Added safety/ less chance of theft and key switch failure.
Make sure you let Ken know which year and style bike you have. Some connectors are a little different.
I had much appreciated help to get under the tank and sort the harness.
I'm happy, good mod.

 

[Claviger]

I love Decosses systems, so convenient to just walk up flip the switch and ride off.

 

[HansO]

I am so used to it now I went out to bike with out fob in pocket and wondered why nothing happened when I flipped the switch and pulled in the clutch .......