New Rotrex C38-91 Supercharger

Hombre, I have the same problem with the crank driver. It's partly broken and leaking.
Is it possible for you to deliver me your version of that part ?
Tnx !

Hey bud can you go into detail on what you mean by crank driver being broken? Are you talking about the nose of the crankshaft? LIke maybe a crack in the keyway? oe are you just exsperiencing a leak from the seal on the spigit drive for the blower? ALos what version do you have installed? I realize yours is most likely newer but do you have a pinn roller bearing tat supports the spigot driver for the pulley? or are you using the roller bearing on it? Is your spigit driver all one piece or is it multiple. I think th enewest version uses the original crank timing gear not a spigot that has the gear and driver for the pulley as a whole unit?
 
This is SOOO out of my league but I am just curious whether the stock trans and rear end can take this kind of power. Were any mods done in that respect?
If not, I've gained some enormous respect for the driveline setup.



My thoughts exactly. Isn't it like putting an eighteen year old heart in a seventy year old body...:confused:
 
This is SOOO out of my league but I am just curious whether the stock trans and rear end can take this kind of power. Were any mods done in that respect?
If not, I've gained some enormous respect for the driveline setup.
Drive train is strong :)
 
charger crank sealunit

Hi warp 9.9, I am using the TTS version unit, also that version which 'Umbro' showed before in this thread with a picture of a chewed up one . Also the adjustable unit with the pinn roaler bearing and seal.
I asked him about his better version but no reaktion of the guy.
 
Ah so somewhere you got a hold of the first style TTS did which went away in 08 I believe when he made a complete cover for the front of the motor that still used that pin roller bearing style.

Below was his second generation which still used the same style bearing unit and driver for the pulley.



A prety good unit unles you grenade your internal clutch hub like I did then it just becomes a great explosion proof cover destroyed the cover but contained the explosion. If it had not of done that I suspect it would have blown about a 10 inch diameter hole in the front of the stock OEM cover. so be carefull if that would have happend al you blew oil out the front on the tire if it would have locked the motor up like mine I do not know if you could have kept it upright. I know I would not have been able to. But maybe God favors you more then myself back then.

Anyway his 3rd Generation cover looks much better but went away from the piin roller bearing as it eats up the spigot that the pulley attaches to and then well oil leak starts. just a slight leak but one its so worn you might hurt the crankshaft keeping tension on the belt. I do not know if Richard still makes the same old components I hear he has even changed the spigot drive now and uses the OEM crank gear. You should get in touch with him to see if he can stiil get parts if not you have some reverse engineering to do. Migh bet is the new drive stuff will work you just need to have another bearning holder made to either fit the neadle bearing if he has not changed the diameter when he went to the roller style. I believe he has not because he supplied me with a new spigot when I did the change over to the roller bearing. I suspect since Ruzzel has the same set up as I do and is now running the new style driver there is something that can be used on yours.

You might find that it is hard to get a response out of Hombre as he is prety much a loner. He does not see eye to eye with me for sure and is not very caring for anyone else. To be honest he and I have had a falling out and I will not go in to it or who I think is wrong as usually things are wrong on both sides and I suppose I could have some fault in it also.
The main difference is I will try to help you as much as I can as this is what these sites are supposed to be for. I also am on the .com site which latley does not seem to have as much bike stuff as it does religous and politicing gun toting stuff on it. I am more into the bike stuff and try not to post much in the other areas. Unless its has something to do with prety girla on bikes then I am all in (for viewing that is :D)

ANyway back on track is your bearing holder shot or the spigot driver as the UK people would call it? Here in the USA it would be refered to as the sprocket driver for the blower.
 
eating up the spigot

Warp 9.9 ,Oeps, I was very lucky I think. I discovered the problem when I was dismantling the engine in order to make some fitting of Je pistons and cams.It was indeed a slight leaking of the oil seal but the unit was already floating in de cover...:eek:
I shall contact Richard of TTS for a solution of this problem. I wish Hombre all the rest he is needing obviously. Tnx !
 
Warp 9.9 ,Oeps, I was very lucky I think. I discovered the problem when I was dismantling the engine in order to make some fitting of Je pistons and cams.It was indeed a slight leaking of the oil seal but the unit was already floating in de cover...:eek:
I shall contact Richard of TTS for a solution of this problem. I wish Hombre all the rest he is needing obviously. Tnx !
If Richard can set you up with something that takes the same size needle roller bearing let me know as I have a extra bearing here I can send to you. Mine does not tak that style anymore so I have no use for it. I think the suface of the drive sprocket is not heat treated hard enough and wears out prematurly. also to much belt tension can add to this. if he would not have changed his style I would have tried to have mine chrome plated with hard chrome and then cylidically ground back to size. Just a thought though.
 
Hard chrome

Warp, it is bad practise to run any roller bearing on hard chrome. The rollers will flex the hard chrome and it will fail. Those parts that I have seen have all failed or been beginning to fail. The part is I believe too soft as you say, have seen the cam chain drive teeth wearing over as well, due to softness. Richard has supplied new ones which are better. Not sure how they are going long term yet. I have sourced bearings locally as it is such a hassle to get them from UK to here. I also believe there is not enough oil getting to that part. Cheers
 
Warp, it is bad practise to run any roller bearing on hard chrome. The rollers will flex the hard chrome and it will fail. Those parts that I have seen have all failed or been beginning to fail. The part is I believe too soft as you say, have seen the cam chain drive teeth wearing over as well, due to softness. Richard has supplied new ones which are better. Not sure how they are going long term yet. I have sourced bearings locally as it is such a hassle to get them from UK to here. I also believe there is not enough oil getting to that part. Cheers
Of course your right. Since I exploded mine and had to purchase a new cover Richard has changed to a ball roller bearing which is the same diameter as the old spigot. I am waiting to take mine a[art to see how the spigot is jolding up. Might be changing drive style to what you just installed if it looks like it is going to last. If not I am dumb ping the blower and going with the NA parts I have which are plenty to support 260 hp as it is. Its time to look for longer duration between tear downs.!!!!
 
balls

I have seen the weeny bearing which is now going in that cover. I had one sent out by mistake. If it was me ( and it is not) I would machine the cover to accept TWO of the ball bearings as with only one there is opportunity for the shaft to flex around the ball bearing If I have described that properly. There is a lot of pressure on that part, belt tension needed to drive the blower at 95000rpm etc. The needle roller should be the best really, the *****it runs on should be harder and maybe a small oil feed to the rollers. As far as teardowns, I do not know about that. There are not many blown bikes about here, but each one I have seen has had piston damage from poor tune etc. So they have to come apart anyway. We have a large country where folk can hold the bike at high speed for a fair while, showing problems which don't occur in a 4 second dyno run.
 
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