"New" 2013 R3T-to flash or not to flash?

cr0ft said:

The way you outrun a V-Rod is to short-shift. The R3T stock stops revving meaningfully at 4k, but it always has brutal torque, and torque is what does the job. Just rev to just under 4k and then shift and you'll outrun a lot. You don't have a rev counter, but you can easily tell where that is - the bike starts coughing like an asthmatic bull and refuses to rev at that point... I still don't know what Triumph were thinking.

The "Power-tripp" tune (there's a sticky thread here) is a great upgrade though, you get even more torque and 30 more horses on the top end - the engine starts revving again and will go to 6k and give you peak HP at 5.5k. I'd strongly recommend it eventually, but would concur with everyone else here and say break it in first, and ride a while.

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Big Head said:

I am with you Victor, this NC heat is miserable and makes you think twice about riding in the middle of the day... I went ahead and ordered a ClearView windshield today with the 5 way directional venting.. I am looking forward to installing it, but it will be a month before it gets here

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bbach said:

Ok now, see, I had talked about this in a different thread, how the R3 seems to stop revving after 4K. It was hinted that I should just sell the bike. So the Power-Tripp tune?

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cr0ft said:

Well, only if you have an R3 Touring. If you have a Roadster, you need a Roadster-specific tune.

I saw that other thread, and the fact that you notice the lack of power in the lower gears seems to indicate that your secondaries are still interfering. Triumph purposely limited 1-3 to make the bike a bit less dangerous to newbies I guess. If you need more power, you have numerous options - first of all, a tune that sets the secondaries to 100%, then optimized for your bike. Having an expert put the stock Roadster on a dyno can squeeze out 20 hp more without even changing air filters, I believe; if memory serves @Neville Lush did just that and had a thread about it here.

This is because no two engines are alike, and just bunging in an aftermarket custom tune into the ECU will never get you 100% there. The only great way to get the bike optimal is to find an expert with a dyno.

Combined with said expert, new air filters and an aftermarket exhaust can get you to 160-170. A Carpenter kit can get you to 210 or 240 and with that mod your bike will rev to 9000.

It's all about how much you want and how much you want to spend.

Anyway, to just open the secondaries, go to:

Scroll down until you reach the Roadster section. Verify your bike's VIN matches the range they specify. The first map there seems to be for a Roadster with stock exhaust that merely opens the secondaries and raises the speed limiter.

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