Need a speedo and tach. Anyone?

[Rango]

Bugger...sounds electrical still...good luck with it and I hope the shoulders heal soon enough

I noticed a tag for Nannup on one of your mustang pics so figured you'd spent some time over here. I feel your pain with the coppers

Thanks Mate.

 

[Ishrub]

What about the clutch cutout switch? I am unsure how it works, mine has been left there but the wires cut at clutch lever before I bought it and am yet to fit the replacement from @Mittzy and fit the @DEcosse keyless ignition. DEcosse is the electrical guru and may be able to steer you in the right direction.

On my Sprint 1050 the bike cannot be started unless clutch engaged.

 

[Rango]

What about the clutch cutout switch? I am unsure how it works, mine has been left there but the wires cut at clutch lever before I bought it and am yet to fit the replacement from @Mittzy and fit the @DEcosse keyless ignition. DEcosse is the electrical guru and may be able to steer you in the right direction.

On my Sprint 1050 the bike cannot be started unless clutch engaged.

Like I said ..... 'Sidestand Cutout Switch' is not operative (in the circuit) providing the bike's in Neutral, obviously preventing the bike being started in gear.

Similarly with the 'Clutch Switch': the clutch lever must be pulled in when the bike is in gear to permit the engine to start.

Sure, no probs, both can be chopped out of the circuit and eliminated nevertheless, that's asking for trouble as with all TR3 torque, if it starts in gear - guaranteed, it'll pull right outta ya hands or worse still, yank your arms otter their sockets.

 

[Fingers]

Have you tried jumping directly at the starter and checked all fuses?

 

[DEcosse]

Similarly with the 'Clutch Switch': the clutch lever must be pulled in when the bike is in gear to permit the engine to start.

That is incorrect - the clutch lever must ALWAYS be pulled, regardless of whether in gear or not.

The side-stand switch however is NOT a factor if the bike is in Neutral and only applies when the bike is gear (in which case stand MUST be up)

If you have no clutch switch circuit completed, the starter will not run

Gauges have no interlock on ability to start or run on a classic model

Gauges are not retrofitable from later (CANBUS) bikes to Std/Classic models;
however you can fit from just about any bike (or after-market) gauges for non-Canbus application - I have a post on here somewhere, if you search, that shows the interconnect wiring and function of each wire colour.

 

[Rango]

That is incorrect - the clutch lever must ALWAYS be pulled, regardless of whether in gear or not.

The side-stand switch however is NOT a factor if the bike is in Neutral and only applies when the bike is gear (in which case stand MUST be up)

If you have no clutch switch circuit completed, the starter will not run

Gauges have no interlock on ability to start or run on a classic model

Gauges are not retrofitable from later (CANBUS) bikes to Std/Classic models;
however you can fit from just about any bike (or after-market) gauges for non-Canbus application - I have a post on here somewhere, if you search, that shows the interconnect wiring and function of each wire colour.

Thank you DEcosse. I am appreciative of your comments in particular regarding the 'Clutch Lever' ALWAYS to be pulled in. It's dark, real early morning now. However, as soon as it's sun up, I'll go to the garage and bridge out the clutch lever switch which broken during the accident. Will advise result, thanks again.

 

[Rango]

That is incorrect - the clutch lever must ALWAYS be pulled, regardless of whether in gear or not.

The side-stand switch however is NOT a factor if the bike is in Neutral and only applies when the bike is gear (in which case stand MUST be up)

If you have no clutch switch circuit completed, the starter will not run

Gauges have no interlock on ability to start or run on a classic model

Gauges are not retrofitable from later (CANBUS) bikes to Std/Classic models;
however you can fit from just about any bike (or after-market) gauges for non-Canbus application - I have a post on here somewhere, if you search, that shows the interconnect wiring and function of each wire colour.

WOO HOOOOOOO. FIXED, FIXED, FIXED!!!!!!!
Bridged the 'Clutch Switch' out and the engine roared into life. Thanks to you DEcosse and your expert wealth of knowledge.
I AM MOST APPRECIATIVE. Thank you.
And thanks to all the guys who have followed help with my 'Journey of Repair' and your offerings of free advice to assist me. Although I felt I could carry out the simple things like, change the mirrors, indicators, clutch cable, seat, soldering broken wires and a few other less technical repairs. At the beginning I had zero confidence of getting the motor to run. Thank you all.

Now that damm little 'Clutch Switch'. Is that a replaceable spare part, do you know?

 

[DEcosse]

The clutch switch is not called out as a separate part, but part of the lever assembly;

Triumphcenteruppsala.se - Sveriges största reservdelsshop för Triumph-delar

your best bet is to look for a used one - most of the Triumph range uses the same switch and splice it into the harness.
Is the housing itself broken? (which the switch mechanically plugs into?); if the perch part is broken, you may as well look for complete left switch assembly.

Here's a good-looking R3 switch - only the switch however, the clutch perch (which includes the mechanical socket into which the clutch switch locates) is not included

LEFT Handlebar Switch Triumph Rocket III 05-12OEM

 

[RevRoss]

WOO HOOOOOOO. FIXED, FIXED, FIXED!!!!!!!
Bridged the 'Clutch Switch' out and the engine roared into life. Thanks to you DEcosse and your expert wealth of knowledge.
I AM MOST APPRECIATIVE. Thank you.
And thanks to all the guys who have followed help with my 'Journey of Repair' and your offerings of free advice to assist me. Although I felt I could carry out the simple things like, change the mirrors, indicators, clutch cable, seat, soldering broken wires and a few other less technical repairs. At the beginning I had zero confidence of getting the motor to run. Thank you all.

Now that damm little 'Clutch Switch'. Is that a replaceable spare part, do you know?

My clutch switch "died" last week but was able to fix. Try electrical contact cleaner before replacing the switch. Spray into the switch (use the nozzle insert tube in the cap) from the under side of the lever. Don't get it on your paint though... CRC Automotive Electronic Cleaner.

 

[Rango]

The clutch switch is not called out as a separate part, but part of the lever assembly;

Triumphcenteruppsala.se - Sveriges största reservdelsshop för Triumph-delar

your best bet is to look for a used one - most of the Triumph range uses the same switch and splice it into the harness.
Is the housing itself broken? (which the switch mechanically plugs into?); if the perch part is broken, you may as well look for complete left switch assembly.

Here's a good-looking R3 switch - only the switch however, the clutch perch (which includes the mechanical socket into which the clutch switch locates) is not included

LEFT Handlebar Switch Triumph Rocket III 05-12OEM

Thanks again DEcosse.
Judging by the highland fling you'll be a Scot? Yeah?

The little switch housing is fine (we're talking 6mm here) as with the 2 little electrical copper contacts on either side are okay too, so is the spring.
But, it appears there must have been a moving central metallic pin, now missing, which I assume must sit down inside the little round switch housing. I assume the plunger acts as a electrical switch contact which is forced into the switch housing when the clutch lever is depressed allowing the engine to start.

I'll have a look at other wrecked Triumphs to see if I can recover a little second hand switch, as it appears it's only the plunger I require.