Need a speedo and tach. Anyone?

probably not the gauges. with volt meter check while pressing starter button across bat. (maybe jumper wires from car) from ground to all fuses. must have at least 9.5 volts to start.
keep us posted. not to many can bring the monster to life.:thumbsup:

Thanks TURBO200R4, I'll give it a go.

I have a '67 Mustang Fastback with a new EFI motor and MOTEC ECU and I know what you mean. Over the 20 years I've owned it, I've gone through a few batteries and although the engine seems to be cranking over and sounds like it cranking fast enough? If the ECU doesn't see at least 12 volts, you can crank all day but she won't fire up. Fit a new battery - 1st kick and she's away.

......... "not too many can bring the monster to life".
HELP, please don't say that TURBO200R4, just got my body back after 14 weeks of pain and broken bones. I don't want my enthusiasm to drop. The way I look at it is this. Try fix what you can yourself. There's lots of guys out there, some on this forum willing to offer free advice. And if all fails, take it to the dealer..........."k'ching $$$$$$$$".
 

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just meant that most just send it to the wrecking yard. i would fix it myself.
but there is a lot of satisfaction when u hear it roar back to life. all of us want to see u succeed and will do all we can to help.
 
Ouuuuuch! Looks like your planning on building a mud brick home. No need to keep a foot on her back to try to prove your still in control, havn't you heard of 'whatever' colour ribbon year! What else do you need to get her back on the road besides "a little cut and polish?"

I've got spares:
A set of 2010 Roadster stock bars, grips and end weights, but yours don't look too bad.
Chrome radiator shrouds in scotch-brite scuffed chrome that were painted black that I de-painted, use as is or repaint.
Unmarked rear pegs and usable Roadster front pegs (warning posts worn off and even thread for same worn away on one).
Scotch-brite scuffed chrome fork guards ready to paint or use as is.
Complete stock low km Roadster twin pipes with collector box, minus muffler shields.
Black painted horn cover.
Full set of very low km 2010 Roadster Phantom Black tins - tank, side covers, front and rear guards, though I believe the front guard has one stone/tool drop chip, (I've got a second spare set of guards in red stripe and will probably red stripe my fitted 2010 R3R PB tank to match).
2 or 3 sets (pairs) of stock chrome mirrors.
2 halogen light inserts (I switched to LED).
Stock chrome rear non-rack rear frame covers.
A pair of factory Triumph R3 leather panniers and mounts.
Stock headers with chrome header covers,(but yours look fine).
2 sets of 3x Chrome exhaust flange covers.
Aftermarket US made Jardine headers with chrome cover/heat shields.
2 part Roadster Gel rider and pillion seats.
Stock R3 rider and pillion seats.
2x Combined Classic Long-haul seats with rider's backrest. 1 x brand new never fitted, and 1 used unmarked
2 spare stock Roadster screens with chrome straps and brackets and/or w/o mounting fork fixing kits.
Sports Roadster clear flyscreen with brackets, with or w/o fork fixing mounts. (I have a black flyscreen and mounts fitted now and another Roadster screen with mods and lowers for winter).
A rear blinker post and shell but reflector globe mount (plug in insert) missing (if yours OK could easily use)

Gees, it surprises even me, a hoarder, when I list all my spares acquired in less than a year o_O:whitstling::unsure::D:D.

I've bought just about all my parts, some new but most second hand. Geez I wish I knew you had that stuff I would have come to you first.
The things I may be interested in are:
  • Bought a s/h tank and front mudguard but both require panel beating and painting so I've gotta spend more money, nevertheless how much for the tank and front mudgaurd - $?
  • The handlebars with ends as although I've repaired my bars and the ends which were damaged, they're not perfect - $?
  • Sports Roadster clear flyscreen with brackets - $?
 
just meant that most just send it to the wrecking yard. i would fix it myself.
but there is a lot of satisfaction when u hear it roar back to life. all of us want to see u succeed and will do all we can to help.

Hey TURBO200R4,

I've almost fixed it.
Found 3 broken wires feeding the Kill Switch and Start Button. Soldered and joined them.
Now the lights work, clocks swoop (although not perfectly but I'm sure I can tweak that).
The Fuel Pump activates.
BUT ........ the motor doesn't crank or turn over.
Any clues?
 
I had the same symptoms when my battery was on its last legs. Are the starter motor connections all clean and intact? Looks you took a fair tumble mate...the mechanicl stuff is obviously progressing ok - how's the physical recovery going?
 
I had the same symptoms when my battery was on its last legs. Are the starter motor connections all clean and intact? Looks you took a fair tumble mate...the mechanicl stuff is obviously progressing ok - how's the physical recovery going?

Thanks mr hunt. I'm pretty good 14 weeks post accident. I also had a worse, scrambler bike smash 2004 on Lancelin sand dunes, almost lost my life then too, so I've seen it all before. My family wanna disown me but I guess only TR3 owners know the feeling of absolute bliss with copious amounts of HP straddling the beast. Although they all tell me it won't be 3rd time lucky for me, they'll never "get it". Jus a couple of sore shoulders which take ages apparently, to heal.

I feel you may be incorrect but I certainly hope you're right, therefore considering your comment, I'm gonna head out to the garage now and jump the battery from my car. Will let you know the outcome. Thank you.

BTW I used to live in Claremont and still have several properties over west. Only departed because it's a fkn police state and if you love vehicles you're stuffed. I have '67 Black Mustang Fastback, Shelby and every time I went out in it the pigs stopped me and spent sometimes, over 45 minutes trying to Yellow Sticker me. Put up with it for many years until I moved to Melbourne. The cops here are great, chase proper criminals, not guys who love cars and bikes. The 2IC commissioner is a biker too.
 
I had the same symptoms when my battery was on its last legs. Are the starter motor connections all clean and intact? Looks you took a fair tumble mate...the mechanicl stuff is obviously progressing ok - how's the physical recovery going?

Hey Mate, hooked up jumper leads to my Ute. Heaps of power but no go, still wouldn't start. The Rocket battery has plenty of power too, 12.6 volts. There's something else preventing the engine from turning over. All Start Up conditions I rekon have not been met. God, this is frustrating, I'm so close to cracking the code but jus can't get that damm engine to crank.
 
Hey Mate, hooked up jumper leads to my Ute. Heaps of power but no go, still wouldn't start. The Rocket battery has plenty of power too, 12.6 volts. There's something else preventing the engine from turning over. All Start Up conditions I rekon have not been met. God, this is frustrating, I'm so close to cracking the code but jus can't get that damm engine to crank.
Bugger...sounds electrical still...good luck with it and I hope the shoulders heal soon enough :thumbsup:

I noticed a tag for Nannup on one of your mustang pics so figured you'd spent some time over here. I feel your pain with the coppers :cool:
 
What about your sidestand cutout switch and clutch switch. Is it in neutral?

  • 'Sidestand Cutout Switch' is not operative (in the circuit) providing the bike's in Neutral.
  • Yes the bike is in Neutral. a) I can tell from the gears and b) the instrumentation green neutral light is on, telling me the bike confirms it's in neutral.
Thanks Ishrub........... next?:(:cautious:
 
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