My Carpenter 240 build

[Jvheli]

Well done Jeff, you've practically made it, welcome to the club.

For me, I did the additional heavy gauge ground cable thing and also had to run parallel batteries.
This worked fine for a few years.
But then came the additional resistance of a supercharger on the crank being turned by the starter motor, plus the underseat space was needed for other stuff, so went back to 1 battery (the original factory one...) and the 1.4kW starter, and it's been starting like a champ no probs at all, even on relatively low voltage battery.

So yes, advice is to get that 1.4kW starter mod done asap. The dual batteries thing is just extra weight and hogging your underseat storage space.
Plus it's probably faster to do than putting another cable in there!

Thanks Art. Starter is ordered. Il fab up an additional ground wire too. Gonna need a longer battery bolt!

 

[Steel]

Carpenter ran the extra cable when they did my motor, and I don't have any issues with cranking even with 13.5:1 compression.

 

[warp9.9]

**** I bought the heavy duty starter for mine in 2014 its still in the box in the trailer with the bike. Might have to put it in the bugger some day. Glad you got her running. Be careful roads are still a bit slick with the salt

 

[1olbull]

Well boys "ITS ALIVE"!!!!! id like to thank @R-III-R Turbo for his encouragement and help along the way. He is really right , your gonna need help someplace on this journey. Best to ask someone who's been there.
The tune I had loaded was for the non-CAN Roadsters. @Claviger sent me his earlier tune for late model CAN equipped Roadsters and did an ISCV reset. Loaded @Claviger PCV tune also.
What did I learn? Quite a bit actually! This is a super fun project, just make sure you allow yourself ample time. To do this right the first time takes more time than you'd think!
Also , the stock starter is not up to snuff. A 1.4kw starter should be included in the kit. Not saying it should be free, but Bob if your listening.....
Here is a short video of me ****ting my pants...

CONGRATS, Jeff!!!
Excited to see it in person.
Have you increased (doubled) the gauge of the battery and starter cables?
If not, it makes a noticeable improvement in cranking power.

 

[1olbull]

Couldnt wait! Its cold here...40f. But I managed for a while.

Raw truth...I was concerned about low rpm performance. Man, this tune is waaaay off and it still pulls harder than it did with just the headers and ramair. Like waaaay harder. Holy crap. This thing is no joke. I dont really know what it will throw down on the dyno, but I know one thing for sure. Its more than the 160 odd it had!

If your on the fence, man do it! The only down side, if youd call it that, is you have to be prepared for a bike that can easily get you in trouble!

Anyone have a recommendation on a coolant overflow? I dont have or want crash bars so its gonna have to be small.

Do the @Mittzy puke tank.
I've had three and his is the best!
Not cheap, but was your 240 cheap?

 

[Jvheli]

I picked up some #4 AWG welding cable for the ground. @1olbull I did check out @Mittzy tank, bit Im looking for something smaller, like 8-10 oz.

@warp9.9 , I plan on taking it easy since like you said the roads still have sand and stuff. I am in awe of how this kit makes so much power. I shall respect her so she doesn't hurt me!

 

[Jvheli]

Ok, 1.4 kW starter and #4 AWG ground in place. Spins it up faster than stock!

One question for those of you with the manual cam chain tensioner: I plan on checking it when I drop the break in oil. Was gonna do it cold, adjust on a cold idle. Thoughts?

 

[R-III-R Turbo]

Ok, 1.4 kW starter and #4 AWG ground in place. Spins it up faster than stock!

One question for those of you with the manual cam chain tensioner: I plan on checking it when I drop the break in oil. Was gonna do it cold, adjust on a cold idle. Thoughts?

Yes the 1.4kw starter is an excellent upgrade.

Re the tensioner, you don't want to do it with the engine running

Holding the outer nut static, back off the locknut and o-ring, put a socket on the crank nose nut so you can turn the chain clockwise from front view, slowly but always moving forward to maintain tension, as you use fingertip feel to ensure the tensioner bolt is turned in to just fingertip tight against the chain as it moves along the tensioning guide

If you tension it without the manual turning bit, the tension will be close but not right. Turning it over by hand ensures all the chain slack is on the tensioning guide side.

 

[warp9.9]

Yes the 1.4kw starter is an excellent upgrade.

Re the tensioner, you don't want to do it with the engine running

Holding the outer nut static, back off the locknut and o-ring, put a socket on the crank nose nut so you can turn the chain clockwise from front view, slowly but always moving forward to maintain tension, as you use fingertip feel to ensure the tensioner bolt is turned in to just fingertip tight against the chain as it moves along the tensioning guide

If you tension it without the manual turning bit, the tension will be close but not right. Turning it over by hand ensures all the chain slack is on the tensioning guide side.

Hey just a note if carpenter racing puts the inspection plug on so tight (like they did mine) so tight the the hex head suface is twisting. You wont be able to do it Arts way. I did mine running but also the same way. If I ever have to relax the chain or get where i want to try . Nevs manual tensioner is going back in mine even if I have to open the shoe up a bit. It is so smooth operating and visual quality makes the APE company look like they machine their parts with hatchets.

 

[R-III-R Turbo]

Hey just a note if carpenter racing puts the inspection plug on so tight (like they did mine) so tight the the hex head suface is twisting.

You let someone else work on your bike???

Risky business, doing it with engine running. I'd sooner get that port cover off even if I had to bust it and replace it