Pig9r
Living Legend
Looks kind of dirty and oily in there Jack, do you ever clean that thing.
Lower Timing Chain Blew-up!!!!!!!
- Thread starter av8r4fun
- Start date
HeR3tic
Living Legend
Exactly what he saidLooks kind of dirty and oily in there Jack, do you ever clean that thing.
I had to take the beast to the shop this morning. It had an air pocket blocking the cooling system circulation. They spanked it and it farted. All is well now. But while I was there I inquired about how much torque on the nut. The head cheese in charge said 27nm.
I'd inquired whether they had loaded a new tune, merely for sake of personal information. I shouldn't have mentioned the wee bit of popping. They reloaded the old tune in today and the decel pop is now huge. No problem...TuneBoy will take care of it shortly.
Silver Bullet
Supercharged
Part #17
could it be a reverse thread allen head used to hold the crank from turning while the nut is used to press on the lower gear onto the keyway/crank nose?
could it be a reverse thread allen head used to hold the crank from turning while the nut is used to press on the lower gear onto the keyway/crank nose?
Sidecar Flip
Living Legend
Well, 17 is an M8 Alloy socket head capscrew and it's right hand threaded. Silver Bullet if you go back up and read my post where I quoted the Machinerys Handbook, you'll see that the sprocket isn't press fitted on the crankshaft end and the diagram seems to be a straight key. The Brits have 3 classes of fit. Free, normal and close with the most common being normal in a production atmosphere.
It could be that the end of the crankshaft is tapered and the internal bore of the sprocket has a matching taper with the nut being torqued against the sprocket shoulder but 27Nm is way out of wack for a nut that size. Maybe 27 Nm for the socket head cap screw but not the nut. We need to see the business end of a crank to be sure.
Finally, Jack, I believe you have the old style sprocket. From what I understand the new style has a shoulder somewhere but you have a shoulder too (between the teeth and the fixing nut), but is that the right shoulder. We need some friggin parts.
Tomorow I'm gonna pull my plug and break a mirror too. Then we'll both have 7 years bad luck. I guess we are all in the dark until one of us takes the fokker apart. The numbers on the SHCS can't be cross referenced in the handbook. They are most likely the grade of alloy and the 'TV' is the makers mark just like is done on SAE fasteners in this country, for example if you see an 'LE' on a grade 5-8 or A325 alloy bolt, it denotes Lake Erie Screw Corporation. If it's an 'LS', it's Lamson and Sessions
I'm wondering if it's possible to remove the tension on the timing chain by removing the tensioner in the side of the engine, locking the bike with the transmission and rear brake and then withdrawing the SHCS and the fixing nut and pulling the sprocket out through the inspection hole? if it's a 'normal' British fit, it should slide off, that is, if you can get enough slack in the timing chain. That would be a lot better than taking the top off.
It could be that the end of the crankshaft is tapered and the internal bore of the sprocket has a matching taper with the nut being torqued against the sprocket shoulder but 27Nm is way out of wack for a nut that size. Maybe 27 Nm for the socket head cap screw but not the nut. We need to see the business end of a crank to be sure.
Finally, Jack, I believe you have the old style sprocket. From what I understand the new style has a shoulder somewhere but you have a shoulder too (between the teeth and the fixing nut), but is that the right shoulder. We need some friggin parts.
Tomorow I'm gonna pull my plug and break a mirror too. Then we'll both have 7 years bad luck. I guess we are all in the dark until one of us takes the fokker apart. The numbers on the SHCS can't be cross referenced in the handbook. They are most likely the grade of alloy and the 'TV' is the makers mark just like is done on SAE fasteners in this country, for example if you see an 'LE' on a grade 5-8 or A325 alloy bolt, it denotes Lake Erie Screw Corporation. If it's an 'LS', it's Lamson and Sessions
I'm wondering if it's possible to remove the tension on the timing chain by removing the tensioner in the side of the engine, locking the bike with the transmission and rear brake and then withdrawing the SHCS and the fixing nut and pulling the sprocket out through the inspection hole? if it's a 'normal' British fit, it should slide off, that is, if you can get enough slack in the timing chain. That would be a lot better than taking the top off.
Pedro
Turbocharged
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2007
- Messages
- 609
- Location
- Rockingham , Western Australia
- Ride
- 05 TTS , Lush Rocket standard
hi guys, i have an 04 model, the large nut on the frount of the crank which helps to hold the timing gear on does not have a thread in it.it simply has a slot in it which sits over the key that extends past the gear.the M 8 hex bolt is the only thing that holds the gear in place.
my gear keyway and key were quite worn , no noise now.
my gear keyway and key were quite worn , no noise now.
Pedro
Thanks a million man..I was thinking that.The reason for no torque value In the book..The stupid book makes It look like the nut has threads..Shut nutin to taking that apart..The front covers no big deal but like Flip says we can probably do It through the hole..I'll be dam,cool Pedro..Mabey I'll make a plexaglass window so I can ck. It every day..Thanks again Pedro and everybody.. Now we know...Crazy Jack
Thanks a million man..I was thinking that.The reason for no torque value In the book..The stupid book makes It look like the nut has threads..Shut nutin to taking that apart..The front covers no big deal but like Flip says we can probably do It through the hole..I'll be dam,cool Pedro..Mabey I'll make a plexaglass window so I can ck. It every day..Thanks again Pedro and everybody.. Now we know...Crazy Jack
