Looking for a good starting point tune please

I believe that is Art's (aka IMFASTTOO) bike it has the 240 hp kit in her.

Here is a better looking one with the 240 kit in her. :D

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YES that's a good looking hot rod bagger that will shock those squids
 
Apologies for being so late to this thread :p

1st - You could reach out to Carp and see what they can do for you remotely. I don't know their use of TuneECU, but they do use Tuneboy and PCV, so maybe they can help? Never hurts to ask!

2nd - You could throw my CES/RAMAIR tune in, it's already what most people would call somewhat on the rich side, I would never make public a tune that was on the edge on AFR ratios. Unless your pipes flow massively more up top before 7000RPM (they don't, but they do flow a bit better, and really flow better in the 7-9k area) it will be fine for tooling around.

Since you have PCV + AT, I would suggest start with my tune or the Jardine tune floating around, use the AT to sample for a day of riding and then tweak the PCV settings with the AT suggestions to dial it in to your bike and setup. It should get you quite close.

Even better would be drop my tune in or the Jardine tune floating around on the interwebs, get it custom dynoed to map the PCV to optimal fuel ratios. Then interpolate those adjustments into the base TuneECU tune, so your TuneECU tune would be custom to your bike. Following this you can now remove the PCV+AT as it will be doing nothing, or you could leave it on to fine tune the part throttle condition and interpolate those adjustments into your base TuneECU tune. Then you can remove it, or leave it on, to prepare for future upgrades/additions to your bike.

Regarding my F-L switch methodology, for those that have tried out my tunes they can attest to very aggressive throttle response, its quite rapid on big throttle openings, it is sharper than the stock tunes by a good amount. While it "technically" might be an inferior methodology it is the same method used by numerous other, very prominent, tuners, some of which completely disable the L table by setting the switch point at 0 and zeroing out the whole L table, creating a F exclusive table. If you look at the switch points I have picked, and where those points are in relation to riding conditions you will find in standard cruise conditions you are in the L table, any time you play, you are in the F table. It makes distinguishing which table needs adjustment very easy when you are tuning using datalogs instead of auto-tune devices (PCV/DOBECK).

Alpha-N, the method using only throttle position and rpm, for fuel calculation has been a relied on and very valid method of engine control since.... well... since EFI was first developed and was/is particularly popular on motorcycles.
 
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